ok, no your batteries should last a little longer than that. get those tested ASAP.

and thats good that your filter was that clean after that long, although you should make a habit of changing them a little more often. i know some people do it every 5k with an oil change, but personally i do every third oil change. and run a good additive to help clean up the fuel system, Stanadyne is one of the best you can get. it'll help with any fuel related driving problems to an extent.

but get the batteries tested and change the oil and let us know what you got then. while your at it drain the water/fuel seperator

you said the check engine light comes on?

 

Yeah the light comes on now and again, with a 5 chime 5 time warning, sometimes a 4 chime, 4 time warning? Usually does this when the engine sounds like its gasping for air, I think that is a separate issue related to the turbo needing rebuilt. Any recommendation on good yet affordable batteries? Thanks for your input here.

 

Die Hard, Interstate (they're a good battery but not so much on $$$), pretty much anything. DO NOT BUY DURALAST, whatever the generic Advanced Auto brand is, or the yellow pieces of $hit from Wal Mart. I know of more good brands, they're just not coming to me at the moment

can you get access to a scan tool anywhere? getting codes would really help us out here. even if all you can get is a code without a description, i have AllData and can give you test procedures and descriptions for the codes. if you go to Autozone and have them scan it for free when the light is on you should be able to get a couple codes.

you have a lot of play in the turbo? chipped/broken compressor blades?

 

Yeah, the numb nut fleet mechanic who worked at the company who owned this E350, put duct tape over a hole in the old resonator box. The suction of the turbo sucked a huge mass of it into the turbine blades. When I bought it I had to open the turbo and straighten all the fins as good as I could. It works, just not 100% efficient. I scanned it with an Accutron from Autozone, but it picked up no codes. That thing is a freaking little toy though. A tranny mechanic/ stock car racing acquaintance of mine has this $2500.00 Snap-On Scanner. When I bought it I scanned it with that Accutron and it pulled 2 codes, brought it to him and his scanner found like 14 issues. I will go for the Diehards. Put the relay in and did the oil change. The whole terminal post (3 wire side facing the block) was broke off inside the relay housing. Tried starting it after I was finished I only got 2 cranks and the batteries were dead. I did not have them on the charger because it was raining all day in sunny South Florida. I'll let you know what happens next. Also the H.P.O.P. only had like a half quart of oil in it. When I checked it the other night I removed the sensor to check it. When I stuck the screw driver in, their must be a lip or a tray around the top that holds some oil, so I assumed that it was almost full. I hope that IPR did not go out. I don't know man, this is my first diesel, they are complicated.

 

ok good man

If you dont have any play in the shaft, buy a wicked wheel or something and replace the compressor wheel, i think they're like $100 or so and easy to replace. I can recommend a few places to get it if you'd like.

and yes youll find a better scanner can scan more aspects of of pcm or tcm and find more issues because the scanner itself is more compatable. did you write down any of the codes?

You say there was only about a half quart of oil in the hpop reservior??? your IPR could be another possibility for just about everything here except your cranking issue. your buddy with the snap on scanner, you think he'd lend it to you or scan it again? in order to check this IPR we need to see what the IPR % is key on engine off and key on engine running. if you can get what that and your ICP sensor is reading, i have test procedures to rule out what it is and what its not.

I run Die Hards, they're some of the best for the money in my opinion and i've never had an issue with them

Diesels are not that complicated, no matter what the method is, the idea is the same. just some manufacturers do it differently, dont let electronics scare you.

 

Well I put the new batteries in and she still will not start. While in the dog house I did notice that when the key power is on just before final start, their is a wire harness doing some snap, crackle, pop. It is the main 24 pins or so cluster of wires that head down and Y off to either valve cover gasket plugs. It is snapping at the rear base of the main plug-to-plug module mounted near the firewall. And seems to flash slightly near the Y that heads to either valve cover gasket plug-in. Could their be a short their some where, or would it originate under the valve covers with the wires that run to the glow plugs, and injectors? I checked them last year, they were fine. Would that cause it to definitely not start? It sounds like it wants to turn over, just feels like it is not getting fuel, but ran fine 4 days ago for 4 hours. And ran last week for 3-4 days, just fine, then just stopped. The fuel bowl fills up fine, but if their were a problem with the lift pump would the pressurized side of the fuel system pull the fuel from the tank, and start? If the ICP went out would the truck not start? If the IPR is done, would the truck not start? If their were air trapped in the high pressure side of the fuel system, would it definitely not start? If their were air in their would it have run ok for a few days, then be affected, or after its running does it push the air out of the system? I know last year when I bought the truck I took it in and Ford replaced the Crank shaft positioning sensor, I think they did the camshaft positioning sensor as well, but not 100% sure, would it be that? If so would it definitely not start? Tomorrow I will remove the turbo again and see why that wiring harness is snapping. Maybe that is why the glow plug relay blew the, (3 wire side- facing the block), terminal shaft. It was completely broken away from the relay housing. If you hear a news report of a guy in Florida who stabbed himself 62 times with a dull screw driver, that will be me. Pre thanks for any answers.

 

ok so with the key on engine off your hearing some popping and snapping coming from the harness that leads to the valve cover harness's? probably wouldnt be a bad idea to take the covers off and check to see if you have some broken or rubbing wires. also, i know this might seem a little scary, but take the wires out of the loom (protective wrapping) and look for bare wires touching. that harness comes from your Injector Driver Module (or IDM). Im gonna say that if you had a bad wire or two going to your injector harness's that the truck should still start, but have a bad skip. a bad IDM would be a more likely culprit for a no start condition. but if your seeing a "flash" at that Y where the harness seperates, there should be a soldered connection there, check it out.

if your lift pump were not working, it would not start. instead you'd get a crank and an occasional pop or trying to start condition.
If your ICP sensor was bad, the pcm would go to a default of 720psi or so, so you have an opportunity to make it home or whatever.
If your IPR is bad and completely open, the truck will most likely not start. the oil in your high pressure oil pump would go directly to a drain and a code would be logged. if you could read the codes and give us a list, it would help trememdously.

7.3's do not have crankshaft position sensors, instead they have Camshaft Position Sensors. If the cam sensor was bad, the truck will not start. (it's a system derrived from CAT)

glow plug relay's malfunctioning is not uncommon on 7.3's, infact they go bad all the time. it's hard to say if your harness issue caused your relay to kick the bucket.

what we need is a list of codes so we know where to start

 

Ok brother let me get some codes, and fix the wiring, or check it out for the snapping and flashing. I really do appreciate the input.

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I am a master home remodeler, so if you have any issues with your house I will be glad to walk you through what needs done. Thanks again DieselDan.

 

haha no problem thats what we're here for!

And thanks for the gesture! But currently I'm only 19 and living in an apartment across from my campus, maintenance is all taken care of. But if I need a hand with something Ill deffenetly hit you up on it!

But yea post the codes and I'll list for you what each one means

And if you can get your buddies snap on scanner, go into datastream or graphing and see what the IPR % is with the key on engine off, and then while cranking see what your ICP reads. post what you find

 

Well DieselDan, thanks for hangin in there with me with the advice. I found the problems with the wiring, it ended up being just a loose connector at the 28 pin double plug. The bolt that holds the male and female connectors together had vibrated loose. Tightened that....No Start! I had a little money left to throw at the problem. It was a craps shoot between paying for a scan, and one medium priced repair part, buying a scanner and one cheap repair part, or buying two parts and hoping for the best. I opened the IDM and saw moisture between the pin connectors, so I thought IDM. I bought one from Auto Computer Exchange (rebuilt) for $150. Plugged it in no.......No start! Went through the whole fuel system one more time, everything was fine. I could only think of three other problems, 1. ECM, 2. IPR, or 3. CPS. At this point an old principle popped into my mind [OCKHAMS RAZOR]-a principle that generally recommends that, from among competing hypotheses, selecting the one that makes the fewest new assumptions usually provides the correct one, and that the simplest explanation will be the most plausible until evidence is presented to prove it false. I rolled the dice, went to Autozone and bought the CPS ($23), came home, installed it, put the key in the ignition....................Cranked the engine and...................... My mind did not want to beleive that possibility because Ford changed that Cam Positioning Sensor 14 months ago. I guess the moral of the story is to try the cheap and easy first, if your too dumb, or can't afford, to own a scanner, while owning a diesel. But I thank you sir for your input and your patients.

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The funny thing is, I was at the gas station just after buying the CPS. I had also just bought $5 worth of Lottery tickets. I said to myself, "God, I am at the end end here! Please either let me win the Lottery, or let this CPS get my truck running, so I can get back to work". After I plugged in the CPS, and she fired up I thought, "Well looks like I am not going to win the Lottery, but I am happier right now to have the truck running, Thanks". I put a smile on my face, reached over turned on the radio and the song playing says, "You can't always get what you want, you can't always get what you want, but if you find sometimes, you might find, you get what you need!". I thought that was fairly ironic. Well I didn't check the tickets yet, if I won, I'll let you know, ADIOS!

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NOPE!