Hub question
#5
the tock SD hubs are a auto/ manual lock in and the suck. on the auto setting it relys on vaccum to engage and half the time they don't. then on lock they still don't engage half the time. they're just junk IMO. then aftermarket, warn, milemarker, superwinch. they are a manual lock in. so you have to get out and turn the center of the hub to engage it. much better that factory. hell the OBS lock ins aren't a bad setup either.
#7
When the seals go bad they take out the hub. That’s what happened to my factory hubs. i never had any good luck with them. i was stuck in the mud wheeling when it snapped. I had to get a skidder to get her out. I have pics of her 4 wheel drive less in the mud right when the moisture leaked into the hub assembly. It’s my fault for not keeping up with the maintenance on the hubs. But i have to say the warn grade A hubs are great. You know when you’re engaged and when you’re not.
#9
#10
Grade A Warn hubs will run you about 160$. Easy to swap out, Basically pull the clip off the stock hubs and remove the hub from the spline and spindle. Then when you go to install the new hubs you simply slide it in and put the new clip in and tighten all the little Allen bolts around the hub, check operation and Walla your good. i cant believe how easy the factory hubs come out of there. Really it’s just that little clip. Anyone could steal them, and do it with no tools. But if they want the POS factory hubs they can have them.