front hub replace
#1
08-24-2011, 08:43 AM
#2
08-24-2011, 10:03 AM
Diesel Bomber
#3
08-24-2011, 12:32 PM
to expand on the simple explanation:
Remove the wheel
Remove the entire caliper assembly with the 2 larger bolts closer to the hub.
Remove the 4wd hubs, these can be a little fun, push the hub inward and using a small screwdriver remove the circlip holding them in, then pull the hub out, you might need to persuade them a little with a rubber mallet. Personally I would have a throwing contest with those POS and buy some nice superwinch or mile markers and go manual lockout, WAYYY more reliable and stronger.
Remove the rotor, hopefully its not too stuck on with rust. it has to come off so you might have to beat it off.
Remove the circlip inside the hub. You need those clip pliers to get the ring off and then there's a few washers that will come out too.
Remove the hub-bearing by removing the 4 nuts from the backside. I find it makes the job easier if I remove the tie rod from the spindle so now I can turn the spindle to any angle I need to get at the nuts. once the nuts are off you may find you need to take a flat punch and CAREFULLY tap on the flat face of the bolts to knock the hub out some. Just keep moving around the bolts and it will pop out. Follow the ABS wire up and remove it from each clip, the actual plug is hidden behind the plastic fender liner.
Now if it were me, I would clean the inside of the spindle, then grease it up some, and try to carefully pull the shaft thru the spindle and out, the reason for greasing the inside of the spindle is to try and get that big seal to come thru cleanly, that SOB is like $60, so try and be careful with it. Get the u-joint replaced while your in here, and check your seals, replace whatever is ripped.
Install is the opposite, put a little grease on the shaft washers, but don't pack that area with grease. Clean and paint the rotor hub, especially the backside inside, where noone will ever see it, this tries to keep it from rusting and sticking to the hub if you ever need to take it apart again. If you went to manual hubs remove the air fitting from the top of the spindle and plug it with a 10mm x 1 pipe plug. You'll also need to plug the airline up at the vacuum reservoir.
Bad luck with cheap parts has made me use only the timken hub, more money, less headaches and redo's
Remove the wheel
Remove the entire caliper assembly with the 2 larger bolts closer to the hub.
Remove the 4wd hubs, these can be a little fun, push the hub inward and using a small screwdriver remove the circlip holding them in, then pull the hub out, you might need to persuade them a little with a rubber mallet. Personally I would have a throwing contest with those POS and buy some nice superwinch or mile markers and go manual lockout, WAYYY more reliable and stronger.
Remove the rotor, hopefully its not too stuck on with rust. it has to come off so you might have to beat it off.
Remove the circlip inside the hub. You need those clip pliers to get the ring off and then there's a few washers that will come out too.
Remove the hub-bearing by removing the 4 nuts from the backside. I find it makes the job easier if I remove the tie rod from the spindle so now I can turn the spindle to any angle I need to get at the nuts. once the nuts are off you may find you need to take a flat punch and CAREFULLY tap on the flat face of the bolts to knock the hub out some. Just keep moving around the bolts and it will pop out. Follow the ABS wire up and remove it from each clip, the actual plug is hidden behind the plastic fender liner.
Now if it were me, I would clean the inside of the spindle, then grease it up some, and try to carefully pull the shaft thru the spindle and out, the reason for greasing the inside of the spindle is to try and get that big seal to come thru cleanly, that SOB is like $60, so try and be careful with it. Get the u-joint replaced while your in here, and check your seals, replace whatever is ripped.
Install is the opposite, put a little grease on the shaft washers, but don't pack that area with grease. Clean and paint the rotor hub, especially the backside inside, where noone will ever see it, this tries to keep it from rusting and sticking to the hub if you ever need to take it apart again. If you went to manual hubs remove the air fitting from the top of the spindle and plug it with a 10mm x 1 pipe plug. You'll also need to plug the airline up at the vacuum reservoir.
Bad luck with cheap parts has made me use only the timken hub, more money, less headaches and redo's
#4
08-27-2011, 09:26 PM
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