OK...background...

2001 F250 4WD supercab ....auto tranny 3.73 rear end

70,000 miles ..new tranny
turbo is great
new IC boots wastegate good
good boost

My problem is power .......

So I replaced my LPOP thinking it was aerating my oil LPOP was fine new pump puts out maybe 2 more psi at idle 18-20 psi and 5 more psi at 2000 rpm like 45-50 psi at 180 degrees eot...which it's supposed to old pump looked so good no point in even checking for wear ...front cover no wear marks ...

So I tested the HPOP again last night in my 125 race tune ........1900 psi at WOT with or without IPR shorted so I know my PCM is good !

When I shorted the pump IPR at idle pressure went up to 3300 psi

when I shorted the IPR on the road at 2500 rpm and no throttle ICP was 3800 psi

what does this mean?

Truck is super gutless in stock mode 80 econo feels less than stock felt when it was running good

22 psi boost with tuner on I'm told it should be closer to 28

I rebuilt my own injectors and since I did engine runs cold 175-180 so I know I have issues there are one or more injectors not fueling the lack of normal operating tempature tells me that much NO fuel = no heat changed the thermostat already still runs under 180 should be 195 and oil should be 205.... I wish I had a thermal camera to look at the manifold while running this would pinpoint the affected cylinders!


The truck used to start when warm super quick now not so much ....and the throttle response is sluggish it used to be really quick ...I am going to pull the injectors and send them to a guy with a flowbench and have them tested and gone through to make sure they are dead nuts and balenced I know I have a flutter slash light miss / lack of power the lack of engine heat means something is dicked up..



So back to the oil how many people have seen a cracked pickup tube and do my symptoms seem related? Could my pickup tube be blocked? at the screen and staving the hpop for oil ?
Is there a de-aeration check valve in the front cover on a 2001 ??


A cracked pickup tube means the engine must come out I could really use the help ...before I messed with the injectors the truck would almost run perfect when started cold in the am but as soon as it warmed up and/or was driven very long it got gutless again..I know I muddied the waters messing with the injectors... you need a flow bench to do them right!
too much work to have em missbehave in the truck after install!

Help guys I would not wish this problem on anyone!

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boink

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BOIK

 

I think you have an injector issue... IMHO that's where your issue lies.

 

OK ...I'll buy into that if I didn't mark the poppets before reassembly and had to go on feeling the sweet spot I agree totally ....without the help of a flowbench your flying blind on DIY kits I won't bash but honestly remans assuming your not replacing nozzles pistons or barrels just orings and the fuel side spring....if your paying 1200 for a set of remans no way are they using all new parts that's the secret nobody talks about ...do they use shims do they machine the poppets back into factory spec? how close in CC's are the injectors once they are rebuilt and tested?

NONE of the reman people talk about any of the specifics and had I had the money to buy a set from each of the big three and then have them inspected and tested by a 3rd party to see exactly what goes on a new set of alliants is 2000.00 a reman set is 1200 NO WAY am I paying that...I'll buy new first ..

I have a guy with a flow bench and experience I'm sending them to to see if I goofed something up ...the lack of BTU's coming out of the motor and power/mileage say's it all
Throwing in a new modded 17* from JOEY at TE to boot if that doesn't fix it it's Fumins or Dmax time as soon as I find a buyer

what is your fuel mileage unloaded at 70 mph ?

 

My truck is a 9000# pig, lifted on 37's... 250/200% hybrid injectors and a heavy right foot...

I could care less about mileage, but if I had to guess, about 12-14...

You could have easily buggered up the oil side, watch this video, one of my injectors had a broken screw in it. Could not tell from looking, buzzed fine, tested fine, but once the truck warmed enough it leaked enough oil past the poppet that it would cause a no start.


Listen for when the motor loads up...

One injector... leaking enough oil that it would not build 400psi to fire the injectors. If you had one or even more injectors just a little bad... No HPO...

 

Here is my plan Joey at terminator is taking my 17* worn hpop and my new 15* and swapping the internals from the 15 to the 17* thus creating a new pump ....and doing his modd whatever that is ...so I assume I will have a great hpop once that is done it's getting shipped out today ....

I am going to do a compression test on the motor and then remove the injectors and send them out to someone with a flow bench and the smarts to repair the poppets and everything else to make them 100% right and matched I took a reading with and IR gun last night and one cylinder showed almost 200* low on temp #1 so that's no good ...if you don't have a flow bench don't mess with injectors period not worth the grief ...

I also check for oil aeration last night by pulling off oil out of the HPOP RES guess what no bubbles at idle or 1200 rpm when warm so that's settled ........

Long story short I probably had ICP issue for a long time based on whatever pump and or injectors so here we go doing both ends of the problem at once tired of wrenching and guessing

key know when to quit!


very sexy blue motor btw I think I got a chubby seeing that clean head under my valve covers is kinda scuzzy .......too much soot in the oil due to truck running crappy!
I would prefer an injector builder who will do your set wether remanning or just overhualing and tell you what was wrong not just hey send me your injectors and 1200.00 and thanks ....how do you know what was wrong ect you get no feeedback plus if you just had a couple injectors cuasing the problem you just got hosed........

 

Joey modded my 17* pump as well, its no super pump, but I would bet its better then a stock 17*

Good plan. I would suggest Swamps or Casserly... Be prepared for bad news, both will not let crap injectors go out the door...

I didnt think that was your issue, but its good to check.

Sometimes the more you work on it, the more parts you swap, the more out of touch you get with the original problem...


Thanks, its a junkyard $800 motor... Blew up the last good short block I had, so this is what I could get at the time...

My injector builder is a friend of mine, does most of the work for bread money more or less. Once I found the issue he fixed it right up... Most of the big name shops are the same way, they doo great work, but everynow and then something gets broken.

Last motor was JD Green...LOL



Doesnt look that good now...LOL

 

such a mess under there that poor motor is all covered up once everything is hooked up

why not make the truck itself a foot and a half wider and the engine bay a foot or so deeper it would give alot of room no more cab off work who the FK designed the 6.0 so the cab has to come off the truck I mean super dumbdick award on that one but then again the motor is junk so I guess who cares

when you see a big semi with the hood tilted and everything all clean and out in the open it's a mechanics dream assuming nothing big is busted probably easy cheesey to replace injectors and such..

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looks like someone has an open air shop too I love like last night when I pulled the hpop and skeeters were biting my calves and I was standing on my bumper leaning over the engine its so fun I love it working on a gasser now is like so easy I could pull heads with one arm after wrenching on my truck ...

 

I have a shop with two bays and an office... Its just too short to get lifted truck into.

Adding on to it this winter if I have time...

 

I hate you already that's why you get the 14' door and walls and the trolley crane with air hoist and the second bay with the lift for your other projects and the leantwo off the back to keep stuff out of the rain and the I could go on