Anyone smell fuel?
#12
10-27-2009, 03:42 PM
#13
12-08-2009, 02:26 PM
#14
12-09-2009, 01:35 PM
I just replaced these. It took me about an hour to do. It did fix the diesel leak. You can order the o rings through Dfuser.com for $15 shipped in 2 days. a great diagram and instructional is found at www.dieselorings.com/docs/FuelDrain.pdf. If this doesnt work as a link copy and paste the address. Good luck
It worked for me.
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MissMay this instructional will be the same for the whole valve. Just skip all the oring and disassembly info. You will just take yours off and instal the new one. Make sure when you install it the lever is in the open possition as shown in the pictures. This will ensure you put it one correctly. Hope this helps. Update when you guys try it.
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Crane this is what mine was doing and the o rings took care of it
It worked for me.---AutoMerged DoublePost---
MissMay this instructional will be the same for the whole valve. Just skip all the oring and disassembly info. You will just take yours off and instal the new one. Make sure when you install it the lever is in the open possition as shown in the pictures. This will ensure you put it one correctly. Hope this helps. Update when you guys try it.
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hey john, ive got fuel leaking out of a small tube coming down the front of the engine on the passenger side, when i turn the "water in fuel" drain, then it comes out like crazy. when i switch it off, it slows the leaking but it never stops. is this the problem that you are talking about, but maybe my truck has an extension hose so instead of leaking in the intake, it pours out of the bottom? :hu
mm:
mm:Last edited by tcyr1316; 12-09-2009 at 01:35 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#15
12-09-2009, 01:50 PM
2 o-rings for $15?
But you need all 3 to do it right. If the 2 main o-rings have deteriorated to the point of leaking, that top stem o-ring is allowing dirt and water into the valve. Once it scratches and wears into the nylon stem you can pay Ford the $55 for a whole new valve with the crummy Buna-N o-rings and let your ULSD eat the yellow PTFE coating off of them too! LOL
But you need all 3 to do it right. If the 2 main o-rings have deteriorated to the point of leaking, that top stem o-ring is allowing dirt and water into the valve. Once it scratches and wears into the nylon stem you can pay Ford the $55 for a whole new valve with the crummy Buna-N o-rings and let your ULSD eat the yellow PTFE coating off of them too! LOL
#16
12-09-2009, 02:13 PM
Yea 2 for $15 shipped priority 2 day mail.
I checked the top one and it was fine. The two factory yellow ones were flat and deteriorating on the bowl side not the stem side. True you can replace the whole deal. I was just suggesting the cheaper fix to the same problem. That Dfuser site has the valve a little cheaper.. I think around $46... but unfortunately this crappy diesel is going to eat up all our crap eventualy.
LOL
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I like that idea with the fuel line guzzle. I might just do that myself.
I checked the top one and it was fine. The two factory yellow ones were flat and deteriorating on the bowl side not the stem side. True you can replace the whole deal. I was just suggesting the cheaper fix to the same problem. That Dfuser site has the valve a little cheaper.. I think around $46... but unfortunately this crappy diesel is going to eat up all our crap eventualy.
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I like that idea with the fuel line guzzle. I might just do that myself.
Last edited by tcyr1316; 12-09-2009 at 02:13 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#17
12-09-2009, 02:22 PM
Yea 2 for $15 shipped priority 2 day mail.
I checked the top one and it was fine. The two factory yellow ones were flat and deteriorating on the bowl side not the stem side. True you can replace the whole deal. I was just suggesting the cheaper fix to the same problem. That Dfuser site has the valve a little cheaper.. I think around $46... but unfortunately this crappy diesel is going to eat up all our crap eventualy. LOL
I checked the top one and it was fine. The two factory yellow ones were flat and deteriorating on the bowl side not the stem side. True you can replace the whole deal. I was just suggesting the cheaper fix to the same problem. That Dfuser site has the valve a little cheaper.. I think around $46... but unfortunately this crappy diesel is going to eat up all our crap eventualy.
LOLWhy not 3 fluorosilicone rated to -70*F, used in aerospace, aircraft and military land vehicles. According to Parker Hannifin, "In the automotive market, fluorosilicones are the seal material of choice for handling gasoline, E85, diesel fuel, biodiesel and ULSD at extremely low temperatures." for $6 plus $5.25 Priority?????
#18
12-09-2009, 06:35 PM
#19
12-10-2009, 06:48 AM
Hey guzzle. I understand your point on all three... and fine if they want to they can. I mainly wanted to show the link for instruction and tell them what worked for me.... And I really dont need o rings manufactured with the coldest in mind 20's is about as cold as we ever see here and that might be 5 days max a year. Dude I need high temp stuff LOL
Oh and just for giggles....I seem to remember shuttles going BOOM because of o rings, planes losing engines because of o rings and I was an Army Ranger for 4 years I know about those military land vehicles!!! LMAO. JK man have a good one
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BY THE WAY!!!!! guzzles DieselOrings.com IS CHEAPER THAN WHAT I BOUGHT!!!!! So when you go to dieselorings.com to get your instructions buy the o rings there too. Better quality, better prices DIESELORINGS.COM
guzzle you like that?? kinda like better ingredients, better pizza, Pappa Johns
I hijacked their add!!
Oh and just for giggles....I seem to remember shuttles going BOOM because of o rings, planes losing engines because of o rings and I was an Army Ranger for 4 years I know about those military land vehicles!!! LMAO. JK man have a good one
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BY THE WAY!!!!! guzzles DieselOrings.com IS CHEAPER THAN WHAT I BOUGHT!!!!! So when you go to dieselorings.com to get your instructions buy the o rings there too. Better quality, better prices DIESELORINGS.COM
guzzle you like that?? kinda like better ingredients, better pizza, Pappa Johns I hijacked their add!!
Last edited by tcyr1316; 12-10-2009 at 06:48 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#20
02-01-2010, 01:25 PM
I didnt want to start a new thread if my issue is not new....
if my problem is the fuel bowl drain...why would it only leak when it's cold outside. when its around 30* outside and the engine is cold it leaks fuel. when i get to work and back in it leaves a trail of fuel in the parking lot and a wet spot on the pavement about 2 feet in diameter. It doesn't do this in the afternoon when the temps have increased and didnt do it at all during the summer?
Also on cold mornings there is a hissing sound when driving...sounds like its coming from just behind the dash. it goes away when i speed up and starts hissing again when i level my speed off. I'm guessing the leak is related to the hissing sound?
if my problem is the fuel bowl drain...why would it only leak when it's cold outside. when its around 30* outside and the engine is cold it leaks fuel. when i get to work and back in it leaves a trail of fuel in the parking lot and a wet spot on the pavement about 2 feet in diameter. It doesn't do this in the afternoon when the temps have increased and didnt do it at all during the summer?
Also on cold mornings there is a hissing sound when driving...sounds like its coming from just behind the dash. it goes away when i speed up and starts hissing again when i level my speed off. I'm guessing the leak is related to the hissing sound?
