I'm a new member so, not sure if this is the way to get help trouble shooting or not. I'm trying it, anyway. Please direct me.
My 7.3L, 280k miles, died while driving and hasn't hit/fired since. Batteries are strong and cranks great. No smoke on cranking. No service engine soon light, other than normal "on" momentarily at ign on. No codes with AutoZone scanner, which I have read will not read my codes, anyway. I have all normal ignition on dash lights; wait to start works. What I have done; Replaced cam sensor. Drained, inspected fuel bowl and heater-good. Replaced fuel filter. Bowl fills with ign "on". Unplugged fuel heater. No start. Checked all fuses, visually, cab and engine boxes. Checked all fuses and relays for PCM and IDM with meter. Unplugged ICP - wait to start light did not work and motor did not start. ICP is oily and wet. Should I replace it and try again or did my test with it unplugged eliminate it as a fault? Service engine soon light stays on with ICP unplugged, and IDM relay out. I used test light across fuse terminals to verify complete circuits on PCM 20A fuse (#19&24 on mine)- have hot side to ground power, have no complete circuit between terminals with power "off" and DO have test light power with switch "on". Tested ohms on PCM diode = good. Relays click with diode installed, do not with it out. Switched relays around, no start, no smoke. Unplugged ebps, no start. Crankcase oil is full. Hpop oil is within 1" of top of plug. The IPR tin nut is secure HOWEVER, the connector body wiggles on the IPR. The connector is tight but the body of the IPR portion of the connection is not secure to the body of the IPR. Any chance that is my issue? I have read on other threads that it is not possible for the motor to start with it unplugged so, how else could I test it? The harness connections to the UVCH appear secure, on the outside of the valve covers. Checked the ground wire on the cowl in engine compartment (firewall to me) up high, near the hood seal. Also, I have a program (chip) installed at low or moderate setting (this truck is not a high performance rig, just a work truck). Should I clear program? I get some action on tach when cranking. I hate the "replace a part and try it" method but, I do not have access to a sophisticated scanner so, I am stuck with that method or dropping the big $ and towing it to the shop. The biggest problem I have with that is that I do not trust the dealer service to find and repair ONLY what is necessary. I have a multi-meter and can perform some elementary things with it but, anything beyond that requires detailed instructions. Also, I do not have a pressure gauge to test HPOP pressure or pressure at filter bowl. Please help. I need this truck for a small business that I own and a few days of down-time causes me a LOT of stress and anxiety, when it needs to be working for me to operate my business.

 

To start with try putting the programming back to stock. You can always put it back in. Next if that doesnt work check the cam sensor wiring. And the dealership cant do anything you dont tell them to. If they do unapproved work they pay for it.

 

check that #30 30 amp fuse under the dash pull it out and check it this was my problem due to a shorted fuel bowl heater you will not get the wts because this fuse powers the pcm

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I was also told that if my icp sensor was oiled up it needed to be replaced I unpluged mine and the truck runs great no more problems

 

so does the wait to start work or not? so much info dumped into one paragraph that nothing made sense

 

You really need to get a hold of a scan tool to check icp press while cranking and to do a buzz test.

 

Sorry to hijack the thread, but I need help. Will the autoengenuity scanner do this function? Buzz test the injectors?

Thanks

 

yes AE will do the buzz test if you have the advanced package (atleast ford bundle)
it will also do all on demand tests, PID monitoring and program PATS keys and tire size

 

I ordered the Ford Bundle from diesel power products for $380.00.

If you don't mind this is what is going on now with my truck. Truck has died like you turned off the key. New cps, IPR, ICP, Fuel pump, wait to start lights works as it should, no smoke when not firing. This winter I replaced all orings in hpop, fuel bowl, fuel lines, ipr.
There is a slow leak down in the HPOP res.

This is after it wouldn't start for a week. I replaced the IPR the night before and she wouldn't fire up.

"Update:

I decided to check if the low pressure oil pump was working, so I checked the level in the HPOP res., loosened the fill nut and cranked on it for about 20 secs. She sputtered, then I hit the start again and she fired up. I allowed it to idle for a few minutes, the motor sounded good. Then as it was getting warm it died again. I removed the new ICP connector and it started briefly (30 seconds) then died again.

The low pressure pump did fill the res. from about 3 inches down in that 10 to 20 seconds of cranking. It was 3/4" below the bottom thread in res. after it died.

So does this new info help? "

Any help would be appreciated.

Adam

 

not much info to go on but it may have an injector mechanically stuck open (poppet) dropping hpo

 

ok, so when I get the AE that can help me diagnose the problem, or is there something else that I can try while I wait