One thing I.didn't mention because I didn't think it was a big deal. When I installed the fuel filter housing I forgot to tighten one of the fuel lines there are 3 on the back 1 in the front the one in the front is the one I forgot so it sprayed fuel everywhere and then the engine cut out could that have thrown the icp code ?

 

The ground wire on the back intake manifold stud is for the FICM.

 

Well that would probably do it right there....


The fuel shouldn't have mattered, even spraying everywhere, it was just at idle, wasn't a high command for fuel then anyways.

 

ok so i got my truck back from the dealer. they fixed the rpm thing it turned out that my ipr took a dump. i will say this though... i never knew that the truck was supposed to idle so smooth! haha any way... that rpm problem is fixed and so is the turbo for the most part but some where down the line i have an exhaust leak which is creating that terrible squeel that i thought was coming from the turbo i cant tell if its coming from the exhaust or the intake manifold my luck its coming from the y pipe but its so hard to see in there. the leak only is noticeable when the turbo is spooling when its not you cant hear it at all

 

most common leak point after a turbo install is the Y pipe to turbo connection, sometimes its faster and easier to loosen up the up-pipes from the manifolds and tighten the turbo side clamp first then retighten the uppipes. make sure the clamp is up top, you should have to use a socket extention to go over the turbo to tighten the clamp, it"s done that way for a reason-it pulls the bottom of the pipe up when it is tightened and it is hard to keep it lined up right if the clamp is in another position.

 

I always loosen the up-pipes where they attach to the exhaust manifolds, and loosen the turbo mount bolts. First connection to be tightened is the y clamp to the turbo, then the up-pipes to the manifolds, then the turbo mount bolts, in that order. Works every time.

 

I also use this method, works great!

 

It's just such a tight area to get into for me it feels like I can't get to the y pipe to exhaust manifold screws without the turbo out of the way. Any advice or tricks special tools you would recommend?

 

You want to loosen the 2 bolts at the exhaust manifold, you can get to them through the wheel well area on the early trucks, the later ones with coil springs it's a pain. I think they are 12 or 13mm and you need to put a wrench on the top of the bolt too to keep it from spinning. when you go to clamp the Y pipe to turbo move the clamp out of the way so you can make sure everything is lined up just right, you can snug the clamp up a little then use a prybar/carefully/ laying on the intake and pry up the Y pipe to make sure it is all lined up

 

the one bolt on the exhaust manifold to y pipe is fairly easy to get to the other one however is not so easy idk if its just my truck but in order to get to it before i had my buddy get into the engine bay with about 4 extensions and elbows just to get to it and i was on the other end under the truck laying on my back. i have a ton of fiberglass matting under my truck so it takes up alot of space is that how it is for every one else?