Okay, so after much delay, we're back on this project. We hired an additional part time diesel tech to tackle this job, so that our regular diesel tech could keep up with the rest. Apparently, it was more than he was up for. He tore everything apart, and now we haven't seen him in a week. Here's where we are: the oil cooler housing was removed, so i put the new oil cooler in the housing, changed all of the gaskets, and put the cooler assembly back in the bus. I have my regular auto tech dismantling and cleaning the turbo per the dts article supplied by mdub. For some reason the mechanic took the intake manifold off instead of just loosening it. It appears to be caked with carbon pretty badly. Does the inside of this need to be cleaned with anything before it is reinstalled, or is the coating of carbon on the inside okay?
I will post pictures of our progress, with questions, of course, along the way. This should be interesting, because i cant find any info on these modifications having been done on an e-series. Feel free to post any suggestions as they come to you!!

 

If I was you, I'd take the intake manifold to a machine or a performance shop near by that can hot tank it, it will really be the only way to get all that crap out of there. I would do it while you have it apart for sure. Not a necessity, but if you can, I would. The carbon in there is build up from the EGR system believe it or not. Messy eh?

 

The only guys we can locate with a hot tank say that their hot tank is too hot for the aluminum manifold and that it will melt. We're soaking it in degreaser in our parts washer, and we will clean it well before installation. The sensor thats screwed into the manifold (i think it's a temp sensor) had a heavy coating of black soot on it as well. I imagine that this wasn't helping matters.

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also, Mdub: I understand that there may be a check engine code due to the egr delete. WHere can i get information on using the rotunda scanner to do this, as well as its general functions? It came with no manual, just the disk.

 

Here's the sensor we removed:

 

Where can you get information for what? I'm confused by the question. The only way to turn the check engine light off after an EGR delete is some custom tunes with an SCT. I'd highly recommend some tunes anyways, have the guys build you a tune that will make that thing easier to drive and smoother running. Probably up your mileage, and allow you to use the turbo to slow the truck down too.

 

Here are 2 views of the engine, after the oil cooler assembly was reinstalled. Intake manifold is still being cleaned, so this is where we currently are.

 

So the bus was put back together. EGR delete installed. Couldn't get a cat delete for e-series, so we pulled the cat off, and broke the crap inside out, completely clear now. Turbo reconditioned. Coolant filter added. Due to lack of space in the e-series, it was necessary to relocate it on the backside of the engine under the doghouse. One of the lines had to be extended to reach. Bus started and ran okay. Wasn't impressed after the time and money spent, but running is still better than before. The bus did a shuttleing job locally for about 10 hrs, and a couple other small trips, no problem. Yesterday, the bus left the garage, made it about a mile, then dead. Cranks well, no start. No codes. Starts with ether(i know, not supposed to use ether in diesels). Top fuel filter bowl is full. Pump can be heard pumping. any suggestions????

 

When you're cranking are you getting any smoke out of the exhaust? Sounds like you just have multiple issues and are slowly knocking them down one by one here.

Don't use the ether anymore, you're going to destroy that motor.

Can you monitor ICP desired against ICP actual and IPR % duty cycle?

 

He's lookin for info on how to use his Rotunda scanner

 

Replaced IPR. The screen was sucked in. If anyone ever has to do this on an e-series, the crowfoot socket used to remove the IPR on the F-Series wont work. OTC sells a special slotted socket for about $300.00. We gave it 2 light taps with a chisel, and spun it, then it came out by hand. No special tools necessary. Bus runs great now. Will the ICP sensor go out soon, too? Should we just replace it as a pre-emptive matter? Also, still have to add the gauges. Still looking for info on how to use the Rounda scanner, if anyone has a link. Thanks!!