Ford has you torque in sequence like that to try and get the heads to seat EVENLY. If you torque one bolt down to 85 and not the others, you'd be putting uneven pressure on one area, and it could do funny things to the gasket and not seat properly.

 

It is funny you said that Mdub because my ford service manual is incorrect with the torque sequence and I did exactly that. I was following the manual to the "T" on torquing the head bolts by using the 5 stage method however my manual told me to torque 1-10 to 65 foot pounds,Stage 1. Stage 2 was to torque 1,3,5,7,9 to 85 foot pounds (notice It said nothing about the remaining bolts) Stages 3,4 and five 90 degrees each stage respectively. So as you can see, my large head bolts did not get equal torque hence my continuous oil leak. (I think). I found this out because I watched a guy on You tube do his and he did all 10 the same way at each stage. I then called Ford and they too explained the sequence. Man, I knew it wasn't right but my manual told me it was. Tomorrow I will try and tighten the remaining head bolts but probably just turn them another 30-45 degrees and hope it is enough to make up the difference. By the way, the guy goes by SeniorMasterTechnician and had good info on You tube.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Thanks for the suggestions on my oil leak however the ICP and oil sending unit have been replaced within the last year.

 

Hopefully the way they described it was from the center out like all head bolts/studs should be done. With the small bolts at top put blue locktite on them and only torque to 10ftlbs, you don't want those bolts to take torque away from the big headbolts that acctually seal the cylinders.

 

Ok, so I think I finally got the oil to stop leaking. Once I tightened the even number head bolts correctly it seemed to have stopped. Now I think I may have a turbo issue.

 

So now I have determined that my turbo is ok and in fact I have not only a bad injector but also a bad connector to the #3 injector. My buz test came up short one buz which was my #3 injector. I switched the connectors around a few times and retesting the buz test and #3 failed each time as did the injector that I connected #3 plug to. We will see tomorrow when I replace the wire harnes and injector. Fingers crossed!

 

smart idea, I ill have to remember that one, could have some chaffing in the harness.

 

Yeah, never really thought to swap the injector plugs for a buzz test.... just don't try and start it like that haha

 

Never thought to start it and I'm glad I didn't. #3 wires at the connector got hot enough that they stuck together. I am happy to say that the truck is back on the road! Thanks for all the help and suggestions. I have learned alot and I mean ALOT from everyone on this site. Thanks again!

 

We learned from you too, swapping the connector to another injector was genius

 

The 6.0's have a oil plug in the back of the engine. there was a flaw in the casting of the block, and the plug is not perfectly round so it constantly leaks oil. the fix for it is simple. all you do is put some cocking agent around it and you're good to go. the problem is, is that the plug is only reachable by removing the cab.