2006 Ford F350 6.0 Wont start at all.
#21
01-09-2013, 01:29 PM
#22
01-10-2013, 09:50 AM
took some stuff apart to get to camshaft position sensor . in the meantime I was going to try to start with the silicone spray trick . Tried to start it with nothing and it fired right up .
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Thanks for all of your advice . The truck fires right off with the silicone trick . and sometimes it will fire without the silicone . My guy was unplugging the sensors around the 90 for the charge air and unplugging the the vgt at the turbo. but can't duplicate anything . truck runs great but if you shut it off it won't start unless you give it a little shot of silicone ? I am assuming it has to be a bad harness or connection but I am pulling my hair out . Your post has been most helpful, I have bulldzers and backhoes and dump trucks for over 30 years and never knew the silicone trick .
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Ohhh i love these no starts!
9 times out of 10 an aftermarket scan tool will not read all the codes for these trucks. So yes you may get the generic cam/crank sensor codes but you wont get the P0611 your ficm died and went to heaven, The P228X ICP codes, or the GPCM fault codes either.
What i want you to do, get a can of 3M silicone spray. Take your cold side CAC tube off with an assistant, have them cycle the key on. Listen to the injectors clicking away when they stop have them crank it and let r rip on the silicone. IF it fires up stop spraying. If not do NOT over load it. Quick shot and it should fire up by quick i mean press the nozzle down for like 2-5 seconds.
If it fires once and "the fire wont stay lit" you have a ficm issue. If you have no start at all-high pressure oil system issue. Yes they will not fire even with silicone spraying down their throats with a high pressure oil system failure such as a dummy plug disintegrated or an STC fitting which blew apart....
Start checking the easy/obvious first. OIL LEVEL-Very critical. If its low enough they will not start. Oil contamination-If you have a ruptured cooler and have coolant in the oil it will mess with the oils viscosity. May start, may not more so not.
No starts will also happen if the EGR valve is stuck wide open, sure there may not be a fault code set for EGR position/error, but i have seen enough of them in 6.0s and 6.4s to cause them not to start at all. Pull it out and see if it starts IT WILL RUN EXTREMELY ROUGH!!!
If you have an electrical gremlin like say a fan clutch harness... Wouldnt be surprised. Some of them will cause a 6.0 not to start. Crank and crank and crank. No start.
The likeliness of a compression issue is very little.... Its not a 6.4, these dont melt pistons. To be sure of this take your oil fill cap off and have someone crank it, if you feel alot of air you have a definite issue. Even if it is suffering from a compression issue to the tune of a missing/damaged piston it still should start and run. Key signs of this will be oil reeks of raw fuel, very thin consistency. Almost watery.
Was the truck running after you did the fuel filters?
What other issues are you having, like was it losing power before hand? It seems to me you have a FICM issue and the scanner you are using isnt capable to see this. (My MAC tools scanner doesnt work for **** on diesel anything)
9 times out of 10 an aftermarket scan tool will not read all the codes for these trucks. So yes you may get the generic cam/crank sensor codes but you wont get the P0611 your ficm died and went to heaven, The P228X ICP codes, or the GPCM fault codes either.
What i want you to do, get a can of 3M silicone spray. Take your cold side CAC tube off with an assistant, have them cycle the key on. Listen to the injectors clicking away when they stop have them crank it and let r rip on the silicone. IF it fires up stop spraying. If not do NOT over load it. Quick shot and it should fire up by quick i mean press the nozzle down for like 2-5 seconds.
If it fires once and "the fire wont stay lit" you have a ficm issue. If you have no start at all-high pressure oil system issue. Yes they will not fire even with silicone spraying down their throats with a high pressure oil system failure such as a dummy plug disintegrated or an STC fitting which blew apart....
Start checking the easy/obvious first. OIL LEVEL-Very critical. If its low enough they will not start. Oil contamination-If you have a ruptured cooler and have coolant in the oil it will mess with the oils viscosity. May start, may not more so not.
No starts will also happen if the EGR valve is stuck wide open, sure there may not be a fault code set for EGR position/error, but i have seen enough of them in 6.0s and 6.4s to cause them not to start at all. Pull it out and see if it starts IT WILL RUN EXTREMELY ROUGH!!!
If you have an electrical gremlin like say a fan clutch harness... Wouldnt be surprised. Some of them will cause a 6.0 not to start. Crank and crank and crank. No start.
The likeliness of a compression issue is very little.... Its not a 6.4, these dont melt pistons. To be sure of this take your oil fill cap off and have someone crank it, if you feel alot of air you have a definite issue. Even if it is suffering from a compression issue to the tune of a missing/damaged piston it still should start and run. Key signs of this will be oil reeks of raw fuel, very thin consistency. Almost watery.
Was the truck running after you did the fuel filters?
What other issues are you having, like was it losing power before hand? It seems to me you have a FICM issue and the scanner you are using isnt capable to see this. (My MAC tools scanner doesnt work for **** on diesel anything)
Last edited by pipedreamer; 01-10-2013 at 09:50 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#23
06-29-2013, 07:48 AM
Mine was the fuel presure regulator, located behind the turbo right next to the fire wall.
It has a screen on it, gets small rips in screen causing the sensor to fail, no start.
There are no codes that will show this problem so I was told.
FICM,ha that problem to try pluging in the block heater , starts lots black smoke you can bet its getting bad.
Know other subject , jecking cold engine 50-60mph , EGR valve and intake pluged.
I used a bit of brake cleaner when engine runing , took intake hose off sprayed it in, then
sprayed, squirted AFT in the intake on warm engine let it sit , start up white smoke some black , done 2x s know no more jerking, no more long warm ups , start and go.
AFT seems to break down the carbon inside the intake , so far so good . Sure better than taking intake off and cleaning it .
It has a screen on it, gets small rips in screen causing the sensor to fail, no start.
There are no codes that will show this problem so I was told.
FICM,ha that problem to try pluging in the block heater , starts lots black smoke you can bet its getting bad.
Know other subject , jecking cold engine 50-60mph , EGR valve and intake pluged.
I used a bit of brake cleaner when engine runing , took intake hose off sprayed it in, then
sprayed, squirted AFT in the intake on warm engine let it sit , start up white smoke some black , done 2x s know no more jerking, no more long warm ups , start and go.
AFT seems to break down the carbon inside the intake , so far so good . Sure better than taking intake off and cleaning it .
#24
09-17-2014, 08:08 PM
No crank no start
I was driving down the road this afternoon and my 04 6.0 just died. I pulled over and waited 30 seconds and. Cycled the key to restart and nothing the truck will not even crank over. Help please I just dumped over 4k into this damn truck . I thought I had it running a lot better and it had good power and everything . Then all of a sudden nothing.
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