Ford Powerstroke 03-07 6.0L Discussion of 6.0 Liter Ford Powerstroke Turbo Diesels

I have no clue!!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 02-09-2012, 08:18 PM
ken_man_1's Avatar
Diesel Fan
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 29
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Question I have no clue!!

I'm working on an 05 F250 with the 6.0L, has a garrett turbo, and nothing is modded at all. Guy calls me and says the truck won't start. I looked it over quick and then pulled the EGR valve (as I think it's plugged), and sure enough it was pretty badly gunked up. The soot was thick and crumbly. So as I have read here before, more than likely the cooler blew up.

Ordered the cooler from Ford (he wants to stay OEM) and started tearing down the unit so I could have the intake hot tanked to remove all of that junk. Got to the cooler, and it was DRY!

So, now I'm thinking that the intake may have a pinhole in it or something, because I can't trace down the issue. Has anyone ever seen this? Please help!!!

This truck is a daily driver, it just drove from Wisconsin to Colorado, and back... nothing wrong the. Just last week it was getting hard to start, and then 2 days ago it would crank and start for 1 second and die. It would keep doing that for a little while, then it would start. Running down the road it was a little rough. Once started, it idled beautiful. But under full demand it stumbled.

I hope someone can shed light on this for me!! Thanks a ton!
 
  #2  
Old 02-09-2012, 08:38 PM
bobfbigman's Avatar
Diesel Bomber
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,942
Received 144 Likes on 130 Posts
Default

The junk in the EGR is normal unfortunatly, unless it was wet like "wet" then the cooler was probably OK, Check out the sticky at the top of the Ford section on how to test the FICM. Also is the starting problem when engine is cold or hot or both? if it is when it is hot then it is most likely a High presure oil leak, there is a fitting on the high presure oil pump on top of the motor that is known to go bad and cause a /hot no start/ situation, its like a $50 part, and also oil rail plugs should be changed if doing the SCT fitting, known to go bad too. If you put it on a scanner it will help diagnose before you throw parts at it.
 
  #3  
Old 02-10-2012, 01:21 PM
ken_man_1's Avatar
Diesel Fan
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 29
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Yea, I kinda figured that as far as the egr being sooty. But what is weird to me is that the top side was crumbly and the lower side (where the tube goes into the intake) has oil residue.

As far as the cold start, it would start for a second then shut off. It would puff black smoke (rich in diesel, lean in air I presume), that maybe the egr is failing.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Warm starts are seemingly okay, just cold starts. But when it does start for a second, it's black smoke.
 

Last edited by ken_man_1; 02-10-2012 at 01:21 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #4  
Old 02-10-2012, 02:07 PM
Mdub707's Avatar
BOMBARDIER
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 8,208
Received 630 Likes on 510 Posts
Default

Test the FICM. If it's not start at all now, it could also be a high pressure oil failure somewhere, ie HPOP. Which could also be monitored on a scanner.
 
  #5  
Old 02-10-2012, 10:23 PM
ken_man_1's Avatar
Diesel Fan
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 29
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

I took the intake off and had it hot tanked at the engine shop, just need to put it all back together this weekend. After I get it fully assembled, I'll do the FICM test. Might as well do it before I start it for the first time!
 
  #6  
Old 02-16-2012, 05:15 PM
ken_man_1's Avatar
Diesel Fan
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 29
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Ok, here's the final analysis. I got the intake back from the engine shop and it was 85% blocked with soot from the egr valve port. So it was cleaned, and that looked good. The intake gaskets looked OK, but 1 spot looked to have been perforated. That might have been contributing to the little stumble at hwy speeds, I don't know.

After reassembling the truck, I was still having a start / stop issue where the truck would start then stop after about 1 second (or maybe one bank of cylinders fired?). So I saw a FICM repair page from another site, and decided to try it. I really had nothing to lose as I tested the unit and the voltage was 48.2 when sitting still, but when cranking it would be at 47.5, then drop down to 40, then back up to 47.5 again. When I pulled the cover of the FICM, there was 1 resistor that was barely soldered into place. I did all of the soldering the repair said to do, then reassembled it, and installed it in the truck.

Started immediately and ran better than it ever had. So thee FICM repair was a winner for me, but it took a good steady hand and a decent iron to do it. I also had a flux pen, that helped.

I just wanted to post the final repair, because lots of guys don't!

Thanks for everyone's assistance, you were dead on!!
 
The following users liked this post:
Mdub707 (02-17-2012)
  #7  
Old 02-16-2012, 06:50 PM
bobfbigman's Avatar
Diesel Bomber
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,942
Received 144 Likes on 130 Posts
Default

Glad you got it fixed. I am going to look at a F550 being sold dirt cheap becaus it won't start, I bet they will be pissed if I drive it away..
 
  #8  
Old 02-17-2012, 09:01 AM
Mdub707's Avatar
BOMBARDIER
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 8,208
Received 630 Likes on 510 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by bobfbigman
Glad you got it fixed. I am going to look at a F550 being sold dirt cheap becaus it won't start, I bet they will be pissed if I drive it away..
Those are the best... bring an extra FICM with you haha
 
  #9  
Old 02-17-2012, 12:41 PM
bobfbigman's Avatar
Diesel Bomber
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,942
Received 144 Likes on 130 Posts
Default

Taking FICM, ICP, IPR with me, see what happens. Also newoil filter and factory cap just in case.
 




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:01 PM.