6.0 no start and out of ideas
#1
6.0 no start and out of ideas
Hi guys hope someone can help on this famous topic. The 6.0 won't start I'm getting 48v to the ficm While cranking and well over 500 psi to the icp , the lift pump is bringing lots of fuel to the bowl. Truck is cranking fine but there is no smoke or fuel smell comming from the exhaust. Checked the fuses under the dash and under the hood. No codes are comming up either. It's a 2006 6.0 liter. Afe intake , Mbrp exhaust and edge tuner. The day it died the tempeture was -40c it started for a few very rough seconds then wouldn't fire back up. Hope someone can help me.
#2
What are you using for fuel at those temps? Have you verified fuel pressure? Even though the pump can push some fuel up to the bowl or through the lines, sometimes it's not enough to keep it running or to drive it. I have this problem like clockwork once a year or twice, depending on temps. We get a REALLY cold day (not as cold as yours!) my truck will fire right up and idle all day long in the driveway. I go to leave for work and the truck loses power and has a very rough idle and will keep dying etc... it's the fuel freezing up in my case (not gelling, but freezing). It's a volume issue. Might be worth checking your fuel pressure. Also might want to check the fuel filters, if the fuel did gel you'll have a "wax" on your filters, which is not reversible. They need to be changed if they have this on them.
No smoke coming out of exhaust tells me either there really isn't any fuel getting in there or the injectors simply are not firing. When you first turn the key forward for the wait to start light, do you hear the injectors buzzing? Are you getting 48V on the FICM when you first turn the key? (Not cranking, just turn the key to run). What shape are your batteries in?
FWIW, I've seen more than a few FICM's that read 48V at all conditions but the truck runs like absolute garbage when first started.
No smoke coming out of exhaust tells me either there really isn't any fuel getting in there or the injectors simply are not firing. When you first turn the key forward for the wait to start light, do you hear the injectors buzzing? Are you getting 48V on the FICM when you first turn the key? (Not cranking, just turn the key to run). What shape are your batteries in?
FWIW, I've seen more than a few FICM's that read 48V at all conditions but the truck runs like absolute garbage when first started.
#3
I don't remember the fuel pressure I'll have to scan it again. Has for fuel I use are local fuel the treat ot for the weather and I also use a conditioner in the winter, the injectors do buzz and the ficm was getting 48v before cranking as well. I used the scanner to watch ficm voltage would it be better to test with a volt meter? Not that you say it the filter did look funny so I will try changing them. Batteries are new and testing fine also. Iv never a problem like yours ever in the winter with it idling fine then dying. Would be able to tell me the fuel pressure required please?
#4
55psi plus or minus 5 is ford's spec. If you've put in the updated fuel pressure regulator spring it will be closer to 65. Anything under 45psi they say is doing damage.
You can't read fuel pressure from the OBD port, you'll have to hook a gauge up to the fuel bowl on top of the motor. Get a cheap mechanical gauge, hook it up, run it up towards the rear of the hood and up to the windshield, then hold it down with the wiper so you can see what it's doing.
The scanner "should" be right with the FICM voltage, but scanners can't read less than 40V. So it wouldn't exactly hurt to verify it with a voltmeter, but 99% chance the scanner was right.
You can't read fuel pressure from the OBD port, you'll have to hook a gauge up to the fuel bowl on top of the motor. Get a cheap mechanical gauge, hook it up, run it up towards the rear of the hood and up to the windshield, then hold it down with the wiper so you can see what it's doing.
The scanner "should" be right with the FICM voltage, but scanners can't read less than 40V. So it wouldn't exactly hurt to verify it with a voltmeter, but 99% chance the scanner was right.
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