Hi if you didnt read my name its Duddy.
6.0 powerstroke in a 06 F250

I have a kenwood radio head with gps that was installed on my truck efore i purchased it. lately when hauling wagons on the farm at night i get faults for all 8 nj and ficm low voltage faults, i have several extra lights and the wagons are lit up by power from the truck, has anyone ran into to low output voltage from alternator causing this, i have checked several i am starting to believe i am just overloading the stock alternator. thinking about going with a 200 amp mean green alternator bolt in replacement/upgrade.

Second i plan on installing sinister onyx head gaskets, egr delete, arp head studs, along with a bulletproof oil cooler and a yet to be determined tuner. has anyone ran ito any problems that are out of the normal 6.0 powerstroke problems.

Any help would be appreciated

 

You could be taxing the stock alt, but I doubt it. You probably just have a FICM on it's way out. At the top of the 6.0 page there is a sticky on how to test it, do that and let us know what you find, we can help you fix that. If the FICM tests ok, I would have the batteries and the alt load tested at your local auto parts store, they will typically do this for free.

Stay away from the black onyx gaskets, too many issues with them. OEM Ford are the way to go, make sure to get the heads decked/pressure checked when you do studs/gaskets.

Every problem on a 6.0 is normal

Welcome to the site!

 

I have done the normal voltage check, batteries and alt passed and i only see it fault under the same condition both times on the same hill at full throttle. And havnt seen it in two months so i was just a bit curious. Gonna have to set up a test while on the road to load everything up the same, the solus test unit i was using didnt see anything outa the normal.

the extra light load is 20 amps for equipment i added, i am just at a loss for a conclusion is why i am here but thanks for info.

Any idea why the sinister head gaskets are not a good a quality?

 

The gaskets are not the correct thickness as far as I know, not that it should really matter. There have just been a lot of failures reported with them recently.

You checked voltage how? With a multi-meter or something? They need to be LOAD tested, not just a standard voltage test.

 

Used a snapon battery/ alt tester (which i bought used and had checked out at my current works certification lab) to load test both, 10.4 on batts at 800 cca w/ alt putting 110 amps at 13.9V both where read with machine and DMM. I was always told that you should only run a alternator at 75% of capacity for max constant load since they are rated at a near max output of their design.

Used a solus next time i was going to have the conditions and the faults came but no obvious answer was there since i dont have an active alt output gauge in the cab. but Voltage didnt drop below 13.7 that we could see, but truck and trailer are lit up like xmas trees since we have alot of issues with inattentive drivers/drunk drivers so the lights cover our ***.

Full scenario, 100% throttle 32lbs boost 13 ton load up a 15% grade truck and trailer w/ all lights going many are flashing hazard/strobes. the truck runs all day no problem, no power issue that i could tell when it faulted but we had hauled all day and the fault came after it got dark and we started using the lights for safety. the approach to the hill starts at a stop sign so its full throttle all the way to the peak. the second truck we were using was the same model year with the same add-ons minus the radio/gps, which is what is leading me to think my truck is overdemanding on the electrical system.

I think the question i should be asking is does supply amperage and voltage have to be perfect or is it just a voltage issue kicking the fault.

thanks for the info on the gaskets, never heard of that issue before.

btw after reading my first post again my apologies for sounding like an idiot, not good with typing this stuff up.

 

I find it hard to believe you're actually using all of the available amperage... you should be able to calculate it though by what wattage all of the bulbs are. A 55w light @ 12v = 55/12 = 4.58 I used this to figure out the amperage my fog lights were pulling. I never even considered it an issue with the alternator, more along the lines if my upfitter relays were strong enough. 4 55w lights running through 12V comes up with a little 18amps... I split those between two 20amp relays so I knew I was safe.

It's still puzzling me why this would effect our FICM/injector codes... Were the injector codes electrical codes? I would almost be leaning towards some loose/chaffed wires at this point, but this is quite an unusual situation.

 

10.4v on the batteries isn't good. I doubt there is "electrical issues" with the lights and stuff. I'm voting you need to hook the truck to a Ford computer to know what is going on. Or at least get a code scanner to see what pops up.

So the issue only shows up while at 100% throttle??

 

Well thanks for the help but this is going on hold since last night my mom was coming to the airport with it to pick me up and wrecked it, 90% its a total loss but thanks for the help

 

Awww man, sorry to hear that, hope everyone was ok!

 

moms fine other than the airbag kicked her ***. well time to shop for a new truck