Yes! Precisely, and that is what most everyone does. Sometimes injectors are actually completely shot and must be replaced. Having said that I had a mechanic with a good rep tell me that I had two injectors peforming poorly on the right bank. He also said that I should just replace all four because the labor was so high that while he was in there it would be smart to just go ahead. At the time I was new to these trucks and didnt know much so I agreed and I paid $1700 for 4 factory refurbed units to be installed on the right bank. When I picked up the truck it did run much better but I still had some disapointment in its overall perfomance when it was cold it ran very bad for the first five to 10 minutes, limping down the road in the morning when I was too short on time for warm up. Then when the truck was good and hot on a summer day and I shut it off it would not always restart and I got stranded a few times. I thought it was FICM, went through all that stuff and everything was good. Then I bought an edge tuner and found out that I had low contribution on two injectors, one was on the right bank and one on the left. Just had all the right bank replaced so this threw up a red flag. That's when I started doing my own mechanical work on the truck and really began learning. Go to the basement biz section and you can see a posting I made about a solution that I developed. It works! My truck runs so good now that I cant hardly believe it myself. I live in Indiana and it has been very cold here in the mornings last week. I go out and fire up my cold truck at 29 degrees F and take off immediately like a scalded dog. Don't even have to plug it in, it runs that good!

 

No start hot conditions are typically a high pressure oil leak, I can't see an oil additive fixing that at all. However, I'd like to hear more about your product and would love to see some of the oil analysis results...

 

That's why I use rev x oil and fuel additives takes care of any stiction and keeps my rig running in great condition

 

Two words, FREE SAMPLE, two more words, FREE SHIPPING. You decide.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

That is true in many cases. I tore into my truck and had all the injectors out for inspection, checked and replaced all the o-rings fittings etc. that everyone advised. My engine was in pristine condition inside with less than 100K miles and still had hot start issue. I know I sound like a snake oil salesman but believe me this stuff works. My truck did not have any of the suggested failures and I still had both hot start issues and cold performance issues. I would not provide oil analysis even if I had done it because it reveals several of my ingredients in my formula however I will send you a free sample of my product if you like and you can have the analysis done yourself. You will find out some of my ingredients in the process but you still wont know the ratio or mix or any of the other trade secrets that it takes to make it so I have no problem with you doing that and could not stop you anyway. So what to you say? Want a free sample? Free shipping? You decide.

 

Again, if you had hot start issues, you had a small high pressure oil leak somewhere... they're not very complicated systems.

As for the rough cold starts, yes the additive would definitely help that. I've found different FICM tunes can really change that as well. Bumping the FICM's up to 58V has also helped others. Few different ways to skin a cat and you can use multiple approaches as well (FICM tuning, good batteries, oil additive).

We'll be looking forward to hearing and seeing more about your additive.

 

Hi all.

I have a 2006 F350 6lt diesel.

It has to be warmed up for 10-15 min , or forget it takes long time driving to get where t should be .

Over a yr ago was talking to a guy at work , same truck , same symptoms 3 places said you need injectors .

Back yard mech(old school) says use AFT in fuel half a liter per tank , one liter in oil changes.

So I did in about 3 tanks no more truck buck.

Stopped using AFT in fuel , sure enough it was back truck buck.

Started using AFT again its cleaning up , takes 2 or 3 tanks to get back to normal .

AFT works for me , hope this helps others .

 

Sticking injectors. I just had this problem not even a week ago and made a post on it. Everyone said the same thing and sure enough they were right.

 

If U haven't replaced the injectors yet , try AFT in the fuel .
Give it some time a few tanks , half liter per tank 130 lt tank .
Heck its worth a try ,
AFT will clean and lube those dirty parts.
O ya u will get the odd puff of white smoke .

Works for me and its cheap !

 

I need some advice with same studder in OD and a slight up and down idle. Just got done installing injectors that were rebuilt to 155cc by Warren Diesel after hearing nothing but good things. They claim that my issue is more than likely an injector not sealing properly. I am somewhat skeptical about their diagnosis. Also, I know a lot of you will tell me that I should have only gone with OEM replacements or Alliant injectors, but since mine were doing so well prior to the solenoids/coils getting fried I thought having them rebuilt was worth a shot.

I torqued them down to 30 ft/lbs. They recommend 32 ft/lbs. I did not clean out the injector cups with a brush or anything like that, but I did blow out the injector hold down bolt holes. They said if my injectors were sticking that it would show up during cold starts and not just in OD.

Like I said my injectors were all doing great prior to my FICM frying and taking several out on the electrical side with it. Now after having them repaired and reinstalling them this issue has showed up. The truck doesn't feel like it has quite as much power as it did before the problem. Plus while I was getting my FICM rebuilt I got the ATLAS 40 tune on it and also had my ECM strategy rolled back to a VXCF4 stategy so that along with 155cc injectors with stock nozzles you would think I'd have more power. Also, why would my injectors suddenly be sticking?

What should I do to properly diagnose my problem? Warren Diesel said I will have to pull injectors until I find the one that is leaking past the copper gasket. I have an AE scan tool. Should I do a Power Balance test? I will probably do a buzz test while I am at it, but don't forsee that showing any issues. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

 

Not sure , but with mine it needs at least 10 to warm up no matter the temp out side .
Also when its acting up put it in tow haul keeps up rpms less jerking .

I cant stress the warm up enough its gotta be done.