Hi Guys,

I don't know if I'm in the right place or not. If not I apologize, just point me where I need to be please.

I have a 2006 F250 6.0L with 155K miles that is having intermittent starting problems. I'm not sure if it's just when it's warmed up or what. I went to the store the other day and shut it off to get fuel and it wouldn't start. Had to have it hauled back home.

I have had the FICM rebuilt about two years ago. I have changed out the EGR cooler, EGR valve and Turbo about a year ago. Today my son and I replaced the glow plugs and harness both sides. After we finished we started it up , took about 7-10 seconds after the "wait to start light" went out We let it warm up to normal running temp and then shut it off. I went back out while it was still warm and it would not start. It cranks and cranks but no fire. I'm not setting any codes on my OBD II reader so I'm wondering if anyone has had a similar problem. I'm going to let it sit for a few hours and see if it will start up again. Any help or thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks,

Whitey Cook

 

This symptom is caused by a High Pressur Oil Leak, it is internal so it can't be seen. There are several places/things/to fix. The STC fitting/snap to connect fitting/ on the High Pressure Oil Pump should be replaced. Also the standpipes and dummy plugs in the oil rails should be replaced. These are the most common fail points on the 6.0 motor, now the top oring on the injectors can fail too but not nearly as often and as predictable as the other items I mentioned. Tousley Ford has the best prices, STC fitting $38 and standpipe-dummy plug kit $102.
Again this is very common on the 05-07 trucks but once repaired with the updated fitting you won't have to worry about it again.

 

The 05-07 HPOP would be the least likely thing on the list to fail. It does happen, but way less likely.

 

Thanks bobfbigman,

Now I'm really confused. If I have an oil leak wouldn't I see a loss of oil even if it's internal? Could you point me to where these things are located? Will I need to pull my Turbo again? Sorry for the questions just don't really know that much about diesels and how they operate.

But I sincerely thank you for I wouldn't have even been looking in that direction. I was thinking either fuel pressure, injectors or something along that line.

Thanks again

Whitey Cook

 

Take your time and check oil pressure. I believe there is a test port near hpop and you will need special gauge and fitting. Also check connectors on ficm and harness, maybe one wasn't tight? The oil problem will drive you crazy if you try to cut corners!

 

OK what is a hpop??

Whitey Cook

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Hey guys,

Just wanted to add I went out this AM and tried to start up my truck. It cranked a little then kind of stumbled and finally started. Again no OBD II set. Oil pressure on my internal gauge looks normal (I know that's not an actual accurate reading). I just watched a video on the replacement of the STC and seals etc. Found a complete set on E-bay for about $50.00. I'm just confused as to how this is causing my truck to not start when it's at operating temperature. Can you please educate me as to how this works. I have no problem repairing it just curious and want to know more.

Thanks,

Whitey Cook

 

these trucks have 2 oil pumps, the low pressure oil pump is the kind evry car or truck has to lubricate the engine. The second pump is the High Pressure Oil Pump that is used to pressurise the the fuel within the fuel injectors, the high pressure oil is pumped into the top of the injector via the oil rails to put up to 4000psi of pressure to the top side of the plunger in the injector and when the injector fires the fuel is pressurised to over 50,000 psi or something like that. The high pressure oil pump has to produce at least 500 psi for it to have enough pressure to make the injectors fire. When you have a leak in the High Pressure system it can't build up the 500 psi of pressure when the oil is hot and thin, when the oil is cool it is thicker and it can just make the 500psi so it will start, that is why it will take longer and longer to start. once started it can maintain the pressure because of the speed of the pump but it can lack power because it needs closer to the 4000psi under full acceleration. The pressure is monitored by The ICP sensor that tells the computer how much pressure it has and then the computer activates the IPR valve to open more/to bleed pressure off/ or close more/to increase the amount of pressure in the system/.
The low pressure oil pump feeds oil to a resivoir that then feeds the High pressure oil pump, the high pressur oil then goes through a branch tube, the Snap To Connect fitting connects the HPOP to the branch tube, th stock one will deflect and cause it start to leak , the leakd oil just goes back to the oil pan. thebranch tube goes to either side of the block the the "STAND PIPES" feed the oil up to the Oil Rails that sit on top of the injectors in the rocker boxes, the oil is fed to the injecors and the injectors have bleed holes that releases the oil after the oil has compressed the plunger in the injector.

The most common leaks on the 05 and up trucks is the STC fitting that connects the HPOP to the branch tube, even if yours is good and the cause is one of the other things it is good to replace it because it WILL fail at some point, the new one is solid and should not fail.

The next most common is the Dummy Plugs, used to block off a port because the oil rails are made to fit either side of motor and the dummy plug fills the port that would have the Stand Pipe in it if it were to be installed on the other side of the motor.They have Orings that can fail and the new ones have a teflon backer to keep the orings from failing.

The third most common is the Standpipes, again they have orings that can fail and also have the teflon backer on the new ones, The standpipes should be replaced if the oil rails are pulled off to repair or replace an injector, the new ones can be reused several times because they have the better seals.


Your best bet is to replace all thee of these to keep from replacing one now and then the others in the future. Normally I suggest testing and doing more diagnosing when an issue arrises but this is so common and the fixes are known. ford would charge a fortunane to diagnose and fix, part of the problem is the Good mechanics move up to the newer trucks and the newbies get to work on the older trucks because the newer ones are warantee and have to be done quicker and the older ones are CASH for the dealership.
Ok, this was the short version

 

bobfbigman and all,

Thank you very much for the breakdown of how this works!! I will follow your advice. I don't think the kit I ordered does anything with the dummy plugs, just the HPOP. Does anyone have a part# and/or a picture so I can see what I'm looking for?

Also I have a question concerning the glow plugs my son and I changed out. When we changed them we noticed there was oil dripping from the end of the glow plug. Is that normal or another indication of a leak as well?

Thanks again for all the help!!

Whitey Cook

 

The oil on the tip is from the removal of the glow plug, they go through the rocker box into the head and there is oil on top of the head and some of it will sit in the reccesed areas like around the glowplugs, totally normal..
tousley Ford stand pipes - Bing Images
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-6-0L-Standpipe-Dummy-Plug-Kit-6E7Z-9A332-B-Diesel-Super-Duty-/230998037304?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35c88e5338&vxp=mtr
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Look up tousley Ford Parts Online, they have them for $102.30, tousley will have the best prices you will find.

 

bobfbigman,

Thanks again for your help with this. Is there a difference between standpipes with an "A" suffix and a "B"? All other numbers are the same. I did find a set with the P/N you supplied but was just wondering if there was a difference.

Thanks,

Whitey Cook