I ordered a 4inch turbo back from banks.also need to know if I also need egr delete or what other mods.truck runs great other than a few rough running issues at times.also on several occasions it would not start.all electronics worked.but when u turn the key it did absolutely nothing.after it sat for a day it fired right up?

 

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Understood&thnx,I have 220,000 miles and just did oil change,fuel filters and new stock air filter.I use rotella 5w40 with hss.I drive her daily for wrk and tow and haul light trailer with quads.nothing big by no means.nothing spilt or huge burn outs.cnt afford tires!it only seems to run rough when its hit in the summer?like now in the cooler months no issues at all.so I would like to know what else other than the turbo back monster exhaust what else should be done.egr delete,dpf delete?also the dead ignition problem.done it twice while driving,and two more times after it sat for a hour or so.all electronics work but turn the key and it does absolutely nothing.mechanic said possible anti theft issue but dnt know why.

 

What filters are you using?

I hear you on the tires, I'm on something like my 5th set in 90k miles... SCT tuners are too much fun.

Typically a hot issue is a high pressure oil leak, but I can't imagine the outside temp affecting it that much. Does it have trouble re-starting when it's warm?

The exhaust is a good start. There is no DPF on these trucks, only a muffler and cat. The cat is nothing like a gas-job cat either, it's relatively open, more like a second muffler. Most of us run straight pipe. I believe your banks will have a muffler. You can use it or lose it, up to you. Nothing quite sounds like a straight piped 6.0...

Full EGR delete is a great idea, if you live in a state where it's ok (basically anywhere minus Cali)

As for what else you should do, that's up to you. We can point you a certain way, but we need to know your plans for the truck. Are you looking for reliability? More power? Run at the track? Be a tow pig? Fun street truck? Budget for this? Kind of a few different ways we can go here.

I would suggest in the short term, a coolant filter (such as one from either Sinister, or dieselsite.com), probably some gauges if you plan on adding a tuner at all, and if not, I would still get fuel pressure gauge, engine coolant temp, and engine oil temp. After I get some more answers on where you'd like to head, I can explain why I think you need these gauges regardless.

Are you the original owner? What's the service history been like on this? Any major repairs at any point? Ever had an Oasis run?

As for you no start condition... that's a tough one, and electronics stuff like that always puzzles me as well. Could very well be a security thing, I've heard of that before. What package do you have? I know the harley trucks of those years had chipped keys.

 

Certainly need reliability,but do want to get tuner and gauges but mo.rt is tight so I'm doing what I csn when I can.I've been using wix filters and the air filter I thnk its a stock motorcraft.I've had the coolant flushed,serviced the entire drive train,new universals in rear shaft,wheel bearings and now the exhaust.I'm the 3rd.owner and had her for two years now.I drive it 7days a week for week work and family outings since her Toyota 4runner is too small!I pull a trailer with 3 quads and do plan on getting a toy hauler.not huge but 30ft.or so.so what ever u thnk would be good and help I greatly appreciate as I'm learning.I know its a good motor with a ton if power just need pointed in the right direction.as far as running bad and starting,it does start easily when its hot but will still act bad if it hasnt sat long enough to cool down.but that has been around two months since it done that.it would smoke real bad and didn't have any power at all.but I've been running the hot shot secret for two oil changes now and seems to be doing great.but I haven't been on long trips or towed anything heavy since then either.

 

Ok I think I can see where you're heading.

Start with your exhaust you have, keep the stock air filter, get a coolant filter next, they're about $120, and will prevent any crud from making it to the oil cooler. Story time...

The factory oil cooler is there to regulate the temps between the oil and the coolant. Ideally, it keeps the coolant and oil within 15 degrees of each other (actually less is better). Now, all is well and good right? Not so much. The block of the 6.0 motor is made (was made, can't get em anymore) in what they call a sand casting process. This process ends up leaving little sand particles throughout the motor. As the engine is heat cycled and used, sand particles break away from the block and make their way through the coolant system. Most of these particles are too small to even get caught in the oil cooler, but some can and do. Add to this, our coolant... the silicates in this can turn into a sludge and clog the oil cooler as well. The combination of this, clogs the oil cooler and you'll start seeing temps with a higher delta than 15 degrees. This overheating of the oil cooler is bad for a few reasons. Itself can rupture, causing oil and coolant to mix. It can also lead to superheating of the egr cooler, and cause that to rupture, it can also take out headgaskets due to excessive heat. So you can see why keeping it clean is a good idea. The coolant filter catches a lot of this crap. Now the only way to really see what is going on... get the coolant temp gauge and the engine oil temp gauge ECT and EOT gauges as we call them. You can monitor the temp difference in hopes of catching early signs of the cooler clogging.

So this is our justification for the coolant filter and those two gauges.

Fuel pressure gauge is #1 mucho important gauge. Our injectors are very finicky. They have something like 75 moving parts inside each injector. They're built with very tight tolerances, which are also the downfall. They need good clean oil to run well. I wouldn't really go over 5k miles at all with the oil changes, regardless of oil or additives. Use OEM Ford, or Fram oil filters. Normally I'd NEVER recommend a Fram filter, but in this case, the cartridge style filter they sell is the exact same as the Ford unit. EXACTLY. Pull them both out of the box, same P/N's and everything. International is also a good source for filters. The oil filter is a very important part to the health of this motor. There are many aftermarket units that even have their own cap, and they have all been known to cause issues. Issues as minor as rough starting and poor driving, all the way up to complete oil starvation and major engine damage. Stick with the Ford cap and the ford filters. The oil also serves double purpose on ours, as they fire the injector, thus the importance of frequent oil changes. I'd also recommend Rev-X as an additive. For fuel filters, again, get rid of the wix and use Motorcraft or International ONLY. Very important on these. This all ties in with the injector life. Our injectors NEED 55psi. If you start dropping below 45psi, you're doing damage, or so says Ford. A fuel pressure gauge is like a heart monitor for a 6.0. We can make recommendations for a fuel system, once you have a base line and know where your pressure lies now. Typical mods here are the "blue spring" mod, which you can google or just search here and read about. It's a stiffer spring in the fuel bowl for the return of fuel to the tank. Basically a certain pressure is reached, the spring collapses and fuel goes back to the tank. This just bumps pressure up. Many of us are running these, and they're relatively inexpensive. Another common upgrade is the 6.4 banjo bolts. These bolts are what attach the fuel lines to the front of the heads from the filter bowl. They are quite restrictive. The 6.4 is just a more open design. You can get the bolts and new copper crush washers for something like $25. You wont notice a difference, but it is just replacing the most restrictive point in the system It should help sustain higher fuel pressure.

After you have gauges, time to look into a tuner. For your needs, some mild tunes and even a good towing tune would be a good idea. Get an SCT X-cal3 or SF3 (handheld programmers) or a livewire (programmer/pod all in one. It will double as gauges, and you can just eliminate the gauges in the previous paragraph). Get it from a reputable tuner, like Eric @ Innovative Diesel, Doug @ GoGo, Matt @ Gearhead, or some of the likes. When you buy from them, they include free custom tunes. Custom tunes are where it's at for these motors. They tune the engine AND the transmission. The life of the transmission relies vastly on tuning. With great tuning, they can tow almost anything and live behind a hot motor running 1/4 mile passes with relatively nothing else.

Your starting/rough idle issues could be attributed to a few things, but I'm gonna recommend you get your batteries load tested first, if they check out ok, test the FICM. I have a write up posted on top of the page how to do it, you can also PM me, I'll get you my number and walk you through it.

Any more questions, just ask. I'm sure you'll have some!

 

Wow now that's information!and your right I will.thnx again buddy,you've been a big help.is there a certain egr delete I should get with the banks exhaust or does it matter

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Almost forgot,my truck has the fx4 package.so I dnt know if that's got something with the key or not.its weird though,only happened 4xs in 2years?its like the ignition just doesnt engage to go to start the motor.

 

Any EGR delete you want. You can get some basic full deletes on ebay now for the $150 price range. A popular name brand one now is Sinister, I think they're about $299. I know FCDP (First Coast diesel peroformance) have some real nice units, it is an entire intake manifold hot-tanked and powdercoated any color you want. Doug @ GoGo probably has the single nicest one on the market, he actually does some machine work to the intake manifold. The coolant never goes through the manifold again. $$$ though.

FWIW, the exhaust you got is a nice unit, but Banks is generally frowned upon on the diesel forums. The exhaust systems are nice (but overpriced) other than that, their intercoolers are nice and competitively priced, but that's it... everything else they sell under-performs for 2x the money.

 

Buddy I hate to keep bothering you.but got my exhaust tonight.and it looks like I have to use the converter?is there a way to not to put that back on.do I need to get a straight pipe and just replace?

 

No worries, you're not bothering anyone. That's what this forum is for, to ask questions and learn!

You can find your answers here...

DFUSER.com - Diesel Performance Products Diesel Exhaust Diesel High Performance Part Diesel Intake Diesel Power Chips

Is it possible to even just return the banks unit without taking a hit? They are nice units and all, but you can get aluminized 4" turbo backs for like $265 these days...