Yes I agree. check it out. I recently was testing a FICM on my truck, it read 48 volts the whole time, but the injectors barely buzzed when I turned the key, and when I tried starting it, it sounded like garbage. Truck fired up, but barely could hold an idle and died after about 5 seconds. I lifted the FICM up and one of the connectors fell off, so it clearly wasn't clipped on all the way. Clipped it in and it buzzed the injectors like normal and fired right up. Definitely take a look there and see.

Now that we know you have those codes, I'm almost certain it's a FICM issue or a wiring harness issue.

 

Ok, it started pouring today here couldn't really work on it. Tomorrow I will the it out. Before the rain came I did get it started and wiggled all the wires to see if it got better or worse. Nothing really changed.yeah it is definitely suspect being how cylinders 2,3,5,8 are the codes. Which according to diagram is the middle connection.
I just for the heck of to tried to the out and maybe clean the egr valve. I took of the clip and removed the two screws. It would not pull out. I could spin it more counter clockwise about a 1/4 turn. Also a little clockwise. Is there a trick to getting it out.

 

Didn't you have it out and cleaned already?

Typically they'll stick in there when they get all gummed up. A pry bar is your friend here, be careful not to damage the seating surface there though. I couldn't even get mine out of my intake manifold when I did my EGR delete, but luckily I had a spare intake manifold that was already cleaned/prepped ready to go on. My other manifold is still sitting int he garage with the EGR valve still stuck in it...

 

Its beefed cleaned a few times at the dealer,but not in a while. This will be the first time I attempt to clean it. I will pry it out. I just wanted to make sure that was ok.

 

Yep, pull it out, remove the o-rings carefully, spray it and/or soak it in carb cleaner (NOT BRAKE CLEANER), hit it with a brush of some sort and reinstall.

 

Done, soaked in carb cleaner. Within seconds 90 percent came off. It was like a black soot. forgot to take orings off. There kinda stretched. I will just a gasket kit.

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What exactly are you doing in the film repair. New parts or just resolving a few joints. Again mine tested ok with 46-48 volts with key on and running. I started looking at the wire harness, a real good look. Spoke with a tech, the recall was because some harness were too short and they were supposed to look for chaffing.

Now they are saying they are splitting the harness for serviceability. When i saw the ford tech bulletin. It said if the model number was c97 don't even look. Mine says c62.

since my codes are just 2,3,5,8. I am wondering if it is just the harness for that bank, which is the middle connection. I don't want to put a film and still have the same problem.

Getting frustrated.

 

I have also heard of FICM's testing out ok at 48V and being "bad"... Typically I just resolder where needed, if any components are visibly damaged, I will replace them (typically see this on FICM's that owners have tried repairing themselves, and failed). I can also upgrade some hardware stuff as well if someone wanted that. I would basically put all of the 58V hardware on, without actually turning it into a 58V, it would be a "heavy duty" 48V of sorts...

 

I see

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Ok i pulled it tuna and looked all the solder joints look fine and good. I am going to put back the egr and ficm. Then make sure all the connections are tight give it a try. If not i will try the swap.

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sorry tuna should be out, auto correct on a apple is screwy.

 

LOL awesome.

Yeah, FWIW, I can't ever visibly see anything wrong with the solder joints, but I know they're bad as soon as we start adding solder. I've had many of them "pop" off the boards during the operation.

Basically picture a component that needs to be soldered on each end. Or "should" be soldered on each end. We add solder to both sides. We have had it happen many times where we go to flow solder on one side and the component falls off as soon as the solder flows. This means the other side wasn't connected at all! Seen it happen more than a few times. They use a ridiculously small amount of solder on these boards. They are made in Mexico FWIW.

 

put it back in check all connections and nothing. I think I would like to try a swap. I still think it might be the harness though. The deal said they sold 14ficm in the last 10 months and 1 harness in the last year.