FICM test procedure
 

I swear I copy the link for this and repost it here 20x a week, so instead I'm just going to post the whole deal here.

This was borrowed from Swamps via PSN. I did not write these, just merely reposting the info for you guys to follow...

6.0’s, FICM’s and cold-start issues.

If your 6.0 will not start cold, the issue may be either the glow plugs or glow plug controller, or it can be the FICM (Fuel Injection Control Module). If after a long cranking with no start you get a lot of white smoke (raw unburnt fuel) out the exhaust, the problem is in the glow plug system. If you do not get any smoke, the problem is probably in the FICM.

The 6.0 injector has two solenoids on it; one turns the injector on (open) and the other turns it off (close). A few years ago, Ford came out with a new program referred to as inductive heating for the FICM, intended to combat issues with missing and rough-running during cold startup due to sticking spool valves in the injectors. This program works by running “extra” current through the close coil to generate heat and warm up the spool. On paper it was an excellent idea, and I advised a lot of potential injector customers to have their FICM’s reflashed rather than buy a set of injectors.

Based on my testing, it appears that the early models of FICM’s only used the inductive heating when the EOT was less than 48*F or so. The “first” updated heating strategy turned it on any time the EOT was less than 184*F, meaning every time you started the truck if it was shut off for more than 10 minutes! Ford’s newest update to the heating strategy has it coming on below 148*F; better, but that’s still a lot of current draw.

Unfortunately, there have been some very serious consequences.

Although the FICM on the 6.0 is way more “intelligent” than the IDM on a 7.3, its basic job is to convert 12VDC to 48VDC and deliver this to the injectors at the proper time. Under normal operating conditions, the FICM typically draws 6-7 amps at 12V into the FICM power supply, which is well within its design limits. However, with the inductive heating active this current draw increases to 24-32 amps—it pegs the 30 amp meter on my test bench! Although the FICM power supply is capable of sustaining this load for short periods of time (1-2 minutes) it eventually gets very hot.

If this was all that happened, things wouldn’t be too bad, but there are several components on the printed circuit board that were not properly soldered during the manufacturing process, and as the PCB heats up and expands, the solder under these components cracks and they lose their electrical connection. The FICM’s 48 volt power supply is actually four separate or independent units; if one of the four goes down, the other three can supply enough current to run the truck, even with the inductive heating active. If two of the four go out, the truck will start and run normally as long as it is warm out, i.e. as long as the inductive heating does not turn on. If three of the four go out, the truck will probably not start or run unless it is at full operating temperature, and even then it may not start. If the injector voltage is over 35 volts, they run OK, although not as well as when it is 48 volts. If the voltage drops below around 24 volts, the injectors cannot fire. While most scan tools will display the FICM voltage, they do not always show the correct value. For instance, AutoEngenuity can only display voltages between 40 to 56 volts, so if the voltage is 35, it will display 40.

How to check your FICM for proper voltage output.
(Perform this check when the engine is completely cold.)


1. Remove the two bolts that hold the coolant reservoir to the cowl and push the reservoir out of the way forward and to your right. You do not need to disconnect any of the hoses.
2. On top of the FICM is a small cover held on by two #20 Torx screws; remove these two screws and pry the cover off.
3. On 2003 and early 2004 trucks, you will see 7 screw heads under the cover. On 2004 and later trucks you will see 4 screws.


4 screw FICM

4. Take a multi-meter set on DC volts and connect the ground lead to battery negative, and with the key ON measure the voltage at the screw on your right—closest to the driver’s side fender. Do not let the probe short against the case! The voltage should be right at 48 volts. Anything between 47 and 49 is good.
5. Have an assistant cycle the key and measure the voltage during the initial key-on buzz test. Voltage should not drop below 46 volts.
6. Next measure the voltage while cranking the engine. If voltage stays at or above 45-46 volts, the FICM is fine. Abnormally low battery voltage can give a false low FICM voltage reading, so make sure your batteries are good.


The procedure is the same for FICM’s with 7 screws, except that you will be checking voltage at a different screw, as shown in this picture.

*EDIT*

It's not very clear here, which screw you need to test on the 7 pin units, so I'm adding this in. When you remove the cover, you will see 2 rows of screws. The lower row has 3 screws, the upper row has 4 screws. You want to test at the screw in the row of 4 that is closest to the passenger side fender. Opposite of the 4 pin. I hope this clears this up.

7 screw FICM

If the voltage is above 46 volts in all the tests, your FICM is in excellent condition. If it is between 36 and 45 volts its OK, but not great. If it is between 25 and 35 volts, you have serious FICM problems.

2003 6.0 Cold start issue
 

My 2003 6.0 SD has a cold start issue. It starts fine when plugged in, but if left unplugged it turns over a number of times before starting. It then belched white smoke from the exhaust. Based upon what I've read here, it seems to be a glow plug issue. I replaced the controller, but still have same issue. Are there areas in the wiring where I might have a short? Thanks

Glowplugs don't go bad on 6.0's very often... try the FICM test procedure...

Thanks for posting this Mdub. Did the FICM test today and didnt realize how easy it was. Took all of about 10 mins and had my 9 yo daughter turn the key for me. Piece a cake!!!!

Tested out ok?

Yup. KoEo 48. KoE cranking 47. Koe running 48 - 49 Works fine. Thanks again!

If you guys find that they are testing bad, PM me and I can walk you through some options. :c:

Hi, I did this test procedure twice now. The second time I hooked my battery charger to the battery to supply extra juice (start mode) in case my batteries were not providing all the power needed. Both times times I got 35 volts, dropping to 30, during the buzzing cycle of my injectors. Then when starting and running the voltage went up to 48 volts. Is my FICM bad? I have issues with the truck running like it is missing intermittently during cold warm up and it also seems to lack full power at different times when warm. Occasionally when starting cold the engine will catch and then stop flat. Then it will start again after another try. My EGR is leaking very little and I am taking it into the dealer. I have gone in before for this rough running and was told there is nothing wrong. Mine is a 2007 6.0 f250 powerstroke bone stock since birth. thanks

If you're not getting 48V at all three conditions

1) key on/ engine off
2) cranking
3) running

Then yes, your FICM is bad.

You've got a few options, I'm shooting you a PM :c:

Just out of curiosity, when you first turn the key and you can hear the injectors buzz, do they sound weak, or like they're not buzzing like they should be?

Have you had your batteries load tested? I would do that too.

I haven't been able to test my FICM yet, but plan to do it this weekend. I'm a little confused about a statement in the first post. It says if you get a lot of white smoke after cranking for a good bit of time, it's a glow plug problem. I replaced my controller, I'm going to check the voltage on my FICM. Thanks. This is very helpful for someone who has very little diesel background.

Basically the glow plugs are there to pre-heat the air in the cylinders. Without heat, we can't burn our fuel, we rely on those glow plugs to introduce heat to an otherwise cold motor. Without the heat, the fuel doesn't burn. If you have some glow plugs getting weak, you're not getting the heat needed to burn the fuel and what happens is it gets partially burnt, or barely burnt at all and sometimes it will just burn in the exhaust manifold, and we see all this white smoke coming out. If you were to go back there when it was smoking and smell it, it will probably smell a lot like raw fuel and burn your eyes a little. It's just not getting a complete burn. The FICM could also be causing this, a weak FICM will just not allow the injectors to push and atomize the fuel the way it was designed to.

Test the FICM and report back here. You will also want to have the batteries load tested if you're suspect of the FICM too.

I just realized the write-up never really said which screw you 7-pin guys need to be testing, so I added that in, it's in the red section.

Veh: 06 F350 Super Duty 6.0 PSD 4x4 Automatic 158,000 miles - NAPA Gold oil filter and Rotella T oil - K&N Air system - other then that totally stock

Me: V=E=R=Y limited knowledge when it comes to diesels

Problem: On cold mornings it won't start - can crank the heck out of it and it will produce the white smoke. If it starts on cold mornings it runs VERY rough until it has warmed up and sounds like the piston are going to come through the block. Under acceleration is "breaks up"

If plugged in it will start fine but will run with hesitation until it warms up and then runs like a champ.

From the above quote it sounds like glow plug problems. I believe the "controller" for the glow plugs/injectors is on the right (passenger) valve cover and the FICM is on the left. How do I test the glow plug "controller"?

Other thoughts of what may be causing the problem - any and all help is appreciated - thanks in advance for replies

When's the last time you did an oil change? Put a motorcraft oil filter back in it first thing. The wrong oil filters on these will actually prohibit flow, and as we know the injectors on the 6.0 are fired by high pressure oil... you have poor oil flow you will have a poor running truck. Change that filter first. Then test the FICM anyways. You may have more than one issue going on here.

Does that oil filter have it's own cap too?

hhh

I have a 2005 f450 that I am kind of having the same problem I dont have to plug it up to start it but it turns over forever. When your turning it over it starts to turn over faster and faster then it will finally fire up. Then it runs really rough until it heats up to running temperature. Someone told be that the fuel pump could be losing pressure when it siting so they told me to cycle the key several times with like 10 second intervals before trying to start. They said this would help push more fuel to the engine before trying to start. This has helped a little but I want to fix it. Any suggestions? Thanks

Go back to the Ford cap and Motorcraft/international/fram oil filter (they're all the same in this case, and this is the ONLY case you'll ever see me recommend a Fram oil filter as well).

I borrowed some blurps from another forum on testing glow plugs and the module:

Set your DVOM to OHMS. Touch the red lead of your DVOM to the end of the glow plug where the electrical connector plugs into (not the end that sits inside the combustion chamber), and touch the black lead to the threaded part of the glow plug. You should obtain a reading of between 0.5 to 2.0 ohms on a "good" glow plug. Any higher than that, replace it. Also plan on replacing the glow plug harnesses too, since removal of them pretty much mandates replacement.

Okay, then the next step is to unplug the black connector plug (not the green one) from the glow plug controller on top of the passenger side valve cover. Look for a pink with light green stripe coloured wire in that connector. Use your DVOM with the red lead touching that cavity and the black lead touching your passenger side battery negative terminal. If you are still getting readings within 0.5 to 2.0 ohms, replace the GPCM.

I have had more than my share of trucks flagging specific cylinder/circuit(s) faulty that ended up needing new GPCMs. If you are in doubt, "borrow" a known good GPCM from another truck, and re-run a self-test. By ohming out the circuit directly from the GPCM to the battery, you have eliminated the wiring from the GPCM all the way to the glow plug, leaving the GPCM the only possible component left to set the DTC.

Have your batteries load tested first. Then test your FICM.

I doubt it's the fuel pump, but it never hurts to check fuel PSI. I would do it while driving though. Get a mechanical gauge, tap into the fuel filter housing on the motor, run it up under the hood to the windshield and pin it down with a windshield wiper, then drive and watch it. Shouldn't drop lower than 50psi at any time.

ok I checked the FICM and it stays above 48volts the whole time. I havent checked the fuel pump yet i got a guage ordered. It didnt seem like it wanted to start until we pushed the gas pedal though then it fired right up.

Are you getting smoke out the exhaust when you're cranking it?

not really any smoke while im cranking on it but when it fires it puts out a pretty of black smoke and just a little white. Now when this all first started it only done this when i left the truck parked with the front end parked uphill but now it doesnt matter, and also i drove it the other day and stopped at lowes and went in for like 15 min and came back out and it done it then so it doesnt have to be cold for it to do it now. Seem to be getting worse. I have a bully dog tripple dog programmer on it if that matters.

Really need to get a scanner on it and watch ICP desired and ICP actual. Might have some sort of a high pressure oil leak.

What kind of scanner will it take to see that. will like a matco scanner work or will it have to be done at a dealer

Matco would probably work. I use Autoenginuity with the Ford enhanced bundle, it's like a $350 software package.

You MIGHT even be able to do it with an SCT handheld too and a labtop with the livelink downloaded.

Of course, the dealer can do this as well. Where are you located?

Morristown tn

ok i put the truck on a scanner and checked the icp actual and desired they were the same, but the scanner showed 3 things P0336 Crankshaft position sensor sensor performance; P0487 Egr throttle position control circuit; P2291 Icp to low on cranking. Would any of these things be causing my problem?

ICP too low for sure. The crankshaft position is typically thrown when you try cranking the truck a lot.

the code said icp low when starting this guy said that a sensor could be bad making it say that because they scanner said the actual and desired pressure were the same. so what do i need to do to fix that?

change the icp sensor, i think its on the passenger side valve cover on the 2004.5 and newer

what about that egr code is that somethin to worrk about

you can clean it, but mines deleted so i dont have to worry about any egr crap

well i have been thinking about putting a delete on mine, is there a difference in the delete kits as far as any being better than others.

other than price, i dont think so... but your 05 will make the check engine light come on without a programmer

i have a bully dog tripple dog programer on it but i dont think it will make it stay off will it

im not sure, Mdub707(mike) knows ALOT about 6.0s and he could proly tell you what programmers will turn it off

SCT is the only one that you can turn the light off with.

The white smoke on long cranking was mentioned. I have that problem now. I plug the truck in and it starts most of the time but when it's unplugged and under 25*, forget it. Lots of cranking and white smoke. THe truck even takes a few rotations to start when warm. I just replaced my starter from being an idiot and over cranking too much. I read that the injectors could be sticking (one or some or all) and that causing the issue too. My FICM doesn't go below 47.6 in any of the positions and I checked all the solder connections as well as the components inside. Looks great. I think I'm planning injectors and go with new GP's and module anyways. What could the problem be with the white smoke? I'm thinking either/or the injectors/GP's but leaning to the injectors.

Thanks
Dave

FICM testing
 

Great place for info - trying to diagnose cold start on the 2004 F350 6.0 L - have replaced the glow plugs yesterday..of course there was nothing wrong with them - today have learned about the FICM from the threads...the trouble started with the temperature at -10 degrees celsius (2 days ago)

the question is

1. Must the engine be COLD for the test?
2. How long for each check - key on/eng off cranking and running

On the first test - key on/eng off - getting a reading that drops rapidly...
Thanks for the help

1.it does not matter if the engine is cold or hot
2. it NEVER should be below 46-48v

also have your batteries load tested

Thanks alot - very late now - will get the readings early tomorow

ok, let me know what you see! no matter what you will have options:c: