Hows it going guys im having an issue with my truck too dont know much about deisels and i just bought my truck like a month ago its a 2004 Ford F350 powerstroke 6.0 dually every morning my truck will start great will run shift and pull great no hesitations nothing runs and drives great 70-80 mph down the freeway the problem is when i turn it off it will not start again till the next morning now it will crank just wont star i have checked my batterys and they tested good have checked the ficm key on the on possition 48v on starting position cranking it 46v-47v havent checked it running like i said dont know much about the truck can anyone give me some addvice on what to check before i take it to the dealer???
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changed out the stc fitting and still no start i cant think of anything else to replace on this turd anyone have any other suggestions?

What sort of readings are you seeing out of your gauges? Looking for codes and readings for IPR, ICP, FMP, and FLP mostly at this point. A ScanGauge II can help you.

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Your FICM sounds fine, but I'd suspect a high pressure oil leak. To verify, determine what your Injection Control Pressure is during cranking when its a no start. My bet is that you are under the magical requisite of 500psi.

Good luck!

I've got a 2006 Psd my edge cs shows 44 volts on startup after 10 min it's 48 volts it's about -20 Celsius out just wondering what ficm voltage should be in weather like that:

Even in the colder weather, there should be nothing you are able to do to get the voltage to dip below 45.

We can repair that unit for you or do an exchange with another to get you going again if you'd like. Just give us a call at 515-897-4459 to get the process moving..

Thanks!

Ed

Need help asap have 04.5 6.0 took ficm off soldering on small board shows no cracks but discoloration rings in the soldering bad or not? Also 3 of the 4 studs on the other board big board has cracks in the soldering would that affect how it runs at all temps? Its severely loosing power blowing black smoke 'alot btw' drinking lots of fuel 1/4 tank in 50 miles idles rough

been reading alot of your posts very helpful!

I have an 07 f350 dually 6.0 170k

Great truck!

only issue I have is when I try to start it when its cold outside ( below 40f) it struggles to start. If it does start and ill let it sit for 10-15min and take try to drive it has this sluggish vibration when accelerating. only for 5 or so minutes until it is completely warm. Then no issues at all. I have realized a slight loss in power since Ive bought it. when I used to turn at a light and beat traffic at times i used to lose slight traction from the power. it doesnt do that anymore. any suggestions?
you've mentioned to check battery.... do i just take it auto zone and have them check it?

glow plug issue possible?
ppl have told me about studs and egr delete. any feed back?

been reading alot of your posts very helpful!

I have an 07 f350 dually 6.0 170k

Great truck!

only issue I have is when I try to start it when its cold outside ( below 40f) it struggles to start. If it does start and ill let it sit for 10-15min and take try to drive it has this sluggish vibration when accelerating. only for 5 or so minutes until it is completely warm. Then no issues at all. I have realized a slight loss in power since Ive bought it. when I used to turn at a light and beat traffic at times i used to lose slight traction from the power. it doesnt do that anymore. any suggestions?
you've mentioned to check battery.... do i just take it auto zone and have them check it?

glow plug issue possible?
ppl have told me about studs and egr delete. any feed back?

Good thing I found this thread. As soon as I start mine it goes down to 43v and then goes back up. KOEO it's in it's normal range as well as when I'm driving it. Sometimes it will go down to 45.5 but quickly bounces back up to normal. It never stays constant either, ALWAYS jumping up and down but within range. I got my batteries tested and they read normal but the engine was hot. This only happens when it's cold. I'm not what's going on.

It drops and then recovers due to the amperage load through it. Essentially, the load through it gets cut down as operating temp increases. Sadly, though, the module needs to be serviced. Give us a call to discuss - we're at 515-897-4459 - or just send it on in. We can also ship you out a pre-programmed and ready to go unit as well to limit your downtime to the amount of time it takes to swap out modules. In addition, if you are looking to fall in love with your 6.0 again, we could hook you up with a performance tune on the module from PHP.:c:

I received my new one from you all in the mail today. I put it in, and the truck has never run better! I'm Jackson if you don't remember our phone conversations! I added distilled water and cleaned my batteries too and that helped the voltage on that. Great way to take care of your batteries and get the most life out of them!

1st time here. Having problem with 6.0 starting. 2006 F250 126,000 miles. 4 injectors and a fuel pump only work ever done to it. Takes to long to fire up most of the time. Worse when the nose is parked uphill. If I loosen and retighten the secondary filter cover when it doesn't start she fires up like a new truck. The fuel pump was just done as the repair shop stated that was the cause. It wasn't :nope: She runs great after started?
Thanks for any suggestions.

Ficm test
 

I have my light on, I tested for codes and found my injectors 3,5,and 8 have low cirurit. I tested my ficm and tested good, I believe my injectors are going out.

Try this, it's an example, just do the part 2 if you don't have a fancy scanner to do the buzz test. For step 3-4 I don't know if just turning the key on would pull up the fault. Do NOT start the truck when swapping harness in step 3

Could be the fuel injector or the wiring connector.

1. Clear the codes and perform the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) and injector buzz tests to verify if the code P0270 returns as a hard fault without running the vehicle.

2. If the code is a hard fault, access the #4 fuel injector (the second one back on the driver's side). Check the resistance between pins 1 and 2, then 3 and 4 on the injector itself. This will check the resistance of each coil in the injector. The resistance will typically be around 1-2 ohms. If either coil shows abnormally high or low, replace the injector.

3. If the injector checks OK with an ohmmeter, try to swap the harness connectors for injectors 2 and 4. Clear the codes and see if the codes follow the injector. If now the code setting is for #2 injector, again replace the faulty #4 injector.

4. If the code shows #4 injector with a different injector plugged in to the wire harness, check the 4 wires from the #4 injector back to the Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM) for high resistance, open circuit, short to ground, or any continuity to each other and repair as needed."

When you tested your FICM, did you do the test with the motor STONE cold? We've yet to see a case where that many injectors tested low circuit without the FICM being the cause.

If you opted to send the FICM over to us, we could test the FICM for you on our bench and CATEGORICALLY tell you whether the FICM was a problem as well - just another option for you that could well beat the alternative approach of :argh:. LOL

Hope this helps!

Ed

Hey, Guys. Been following this thread, read all the way through. Cold start issue, 2007 F250 6.0L. Tested FICM, showed faulty and replaced. Batteries at 12.5 volts. Turn key, wait for GP's to heat up, then crank. Spins V-E-R-Y slow just like it has a dead battery. Check voltage after half-dozen to a dozen spins, voltage on batteries drop to 10! Batteries are new, alternator is new. Hook up charger and apply 200 amps surge and it will start. Very frustrating. Ran scanner, no codes. Glow Plug test read good. ICP looks normal when running. Help!:argh:

My 2005 F-350 has had some sort of eletrical problem for 2 years. Just rolled past 90K miles. Instrument panel says TBC fault and "Trailer Dosconnected" 5 times in a 10 mile drive.

This truck gets driven maybe 3 miles on an average day. It starts fine when cold but after warm up it will turn over, maybe "rumble" at around 300 RPM then die. Still get the glow plug heater "coil heater" symbol in the top right and 6 dings before I turn the switch to Start.

Last night it started fine when I went to the store. I shut off the motor to save deisel but I was in the store less than 5 minutes and it would turn over but never hit. I heard the batteries slowing down so I quit trying. Popped the hood. Had three different pickup owners drift over to see if they could help. One guy had a small SUV and his battery looked small too. He accidently hooked his end of my heavy duty jumper cables backwards and when he touched the hot clamp to his ground post he had sparks galore. He finally got it right but had to get in and rev up his to give me more amperege.

My truck finally started and we drove home. This morning my wife hopped in for a quick test and the batteries were COMPLETELY dead. Also, the info center, MPG, etc is totally blank. I put the charger on 10 amp slow charge 2 hours ago, going now to switch to 30 AMP fast charge for 1/2 hour then try to start it.

Pretty sure I have had a dead glow plug, front plug on passenger side. You can smell unburned deisel in the exhaust. This truck doesn't smoke at all. But something else is wrong, I need some advice please.

Thank You,

Rick

05 FICM crank,no start
 

Hey guys I have a question about the FICM problem I have. I have an 05 Powerstoke when I turn on the key I get 30v on the FICM eventually it goes to 47.5v when I crank. I know my batteries are bad they don't hold a charge for long. Could that be why my power is low when I first turn the key on? I have good ICP good IPR and good SYC. The only thing is that FICM volts when I first turn the key. Any help will be Appreciated. Thanks in advance