06 6.0 EGR delete 230,000 miles
1) when it is cold out side under 50 degrees my truck either wont start or will finally start after cranking it for 30-60 seconds and run like hell it turns quick doesnt seem like it cranks any different than when it is warm but if i plug it in over night its fine not throwing any FICM codes it doesnt usually get less than 30 degrees were i live in the winter I have put a SCT tuner on it but I had this problem before that the check engine light was on before i got the tuner but once i tuned it it went off i figured it was from the EGR delete because the tuner has a setting for it the other day it threw some codes but i deleted them returned it to stock and then put it back on street tune and they havent come back P0069 map barometric pressure correlation and P0470 exhaust A ck t

2) since I bought the truck over a year ago every morning when you start it up and drive it down the road wether I let it idle for 10 minutes or jump in and go the transmission doesn't want to shift unless you let it rev up and let off the gas then it will shift after a couple minutes of driving it is fine for the rest of the day wether it sits in the drive for hours or im driving it all the time i put some lucas in the tranny but no help i figure if the transmission was going out it would have done it by now ive had the truck for 18 months

 

You could have some bad glow plugs, thus the hard to start when cold. A lot of times, you wont get FICM codes when the FICM is dying. Test it with a multi-meter. 6.0's, FICM's and Cold Start Problems - PowerStrokeNation

I wouldn't be putting anything like Lucas in that trans. Just stick with the recommended motorcraft fluids. I think there is an updated one out now too, Mercon LV. It replaces the Mercon SP.

Who's tunes are you using with your SCT?

P0470 is an EBP code (exhaust back pressure sensor). On the drivers side exhaust manifold, you'll see a stainless line that threads into the top of the manifold. Follow it up, you'll see a sensor attached at the other end. Remove the sensor and that tube, and clean both. Make sure that tube is cleared out. It will cause similar issues to having a stuck turbo, which may be more of your issue than the trans itself.

P0069 is a baro code. This typically pops up when guys jump in a truck in 0 degree weather and just drive it right away. Most of the suggestions I see to fix this are, clear the code, let the truck warm up, then drive it. This may be tied into your cold start issues however. Test the FICM first, then you may need to test the glow plugs or possibly replace some.

I think once we narrow this stuff down, the trans issue may go away.

 

DP Tuner
thanks for the advise ill try that and see if it clears up

 

Hmm interesting. Have you tried any other tunes? I don't know anyone using DP tuner for their 6.0. I know Jody does great stuff with the 7.3's though, so I wouldn't be scared to run his tunes on a 6.0.

 

I cleaned out the EPB sensor and tube it was filled with soot i tested the ficm it was reading 27-29 volts fixed that now it reads 48 volts all the time it starts better now but it started started bucking like it was was missing about once a day around 50mph a few days before the ficm was repaired usualy going up a small hill on cruise then continually it started to get worse and now it does it every time i get in it @40mph + it runs fine at low speeds but starts bucking and acting like its missing sometimes worse than other but it comes and goes sometimes it will run fine for a 5 minutes then go back to acting up i just cant figure it out it threw a #2 glow plug wire code yesterday then it went away and now is throwing no codes i put a diagnostic tool on it (it is an old one that only went up to 2003 but had the 6.0 i know its not an exact match but it gave most of the info) drove it down the road monitoing it and everything looked good there were no differences when it was running good or bad but it showed no misfires when it was missing so bad it could shake a lung loose did the glow plug test on it it was fine did the injector test on it it cycled through the injectors i could hear all eight click then a buzz it did that 3x and came up good i was wondering if that means the injectors are good if they click in the test all pressures stay steady fuel pump has 100% power i saw no changes on the trends when it was was missing and the rpm's were steady they moved with exeleration and coasting batteries both test 12.6 volts /the timing was around -5/-2 /inj ctrl press dutcy 30-46%/injector control pressure 900-1600 while driving/ inj control press volts 1.31/map volts 1.33/i still have to let off the pedel to shift the tranny when its cold but dont know about the cold start yet it hasnt gotten cold here yet tonite will be the coldest in the 40s so i will see about that in the morning it runs the same wether on stock or with any of my tunes so im keeping it on stock for now i dont want to tear any thing up worse than it is im not sure if that helps just throwing info out

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and i havent tryed any other tunes dont know alot about it so idont know whats good or bad i had a 03 cummins and it came with an edge plug in chip that wasnt adjustable so i didnt learn much there I bought the SCT from a guy who traded his truck in i went to pick it up and it wouldnt synce to my truck so he sent it to SCT and they reprogrammed it back to default setting and it worked fine but i still only get 14mpg from 13mpg was hoping for a little better

 

Your poor mileage is probably related to how the truck is running. You say ICP is 900-1600 when driving... I take it that is at light throttle application right? It should go close to 4000 when WOT. You also need to let us know if that is desired or actual and you really need to compare the two to ensure the HPOP is keeping up with demand.

Your bucking and missing sound like typical sticking injectors, which sometimes are hard to find with the scanner. I would try some Rev-X additive and see if it gets better. If it does, that's your answer.

Your FICM voltages... you say you have 48 now, is that under all conditions? It needs to be tested Key on Engine off (KOEO), then tested while cranking, then tested while running. I've seen them test at 48V during all conditions until truck is running and then slowly start losing voltage. You may have done it this way, but I just wasn't sure and wanted to MAKE sure you did.

Also... your battery test @ 12.6 V... I'm assuming you did this off of the truck right? As in you tested each battery independently on a test bench? This was a load test or just a multimeter? They really need to be load tested, along with the alternator. When the batteries are hooked up on the truck, they should be over 14V.

Here's some more useful info about the ICP and IPR....

ICP pressure and IPR information
The IPR valve is normally open; it takes a 12 volt pulse width modulated ground signal to actuate the IPR.
-Monitor the ICP while cranking, if it is .4v to .5v (200 psi) it is a possible stuck IPR. The system will build 200 psi even if the IPR is open. Make sure that oil pressure registers on the dash gauge while cranking, if not you may not enough low oil pressure.
-If the ICP is .6v to .7v (400 psi) then it is very likely that you have a high pressure leak
-Compare actual to desired ICP on the scan tool, if actual is below desired.
-If ICP is low remove IPR and check for metal on the screen. If you have metal on the IPR screen then the high pressure pump and IPR will need to be replaced. You will also need to check the screen under the oil cooler, toward the front of the engine valley and clean or replace as necessary. The oil rails and check valves will need to be flushed to remove any debris. Of course the debris may have gotten into the injectors as well and could cause problems with a miss or rough run.
-The ICP pressure should be stable and not erratic. If it is erratic then you could have a high pressure side leak or a sticky IPR valve (requires replacement), or debris in the check valves which will require replacement as well.
-The ICP sensor can leak oil, if this happens replace both the sensor and the ICP pigtail connector
-ICP sensor should read .16 - .28 volts (less than 70 psi) KOEO at normal operating temperature after the engine has been off for at least 2 minutes.
-2004 ¼ and up should be updated to the latest oil standpipe design.

 

what should the ICP be when its idleing cause it is at 0.87v with 586.80 psi and the inj timing BTDC is -4

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Allright here it goes thanks for all the advise i apreciate it greatly and if your reading this down the road I hope it help as you can see above I have been having alot of problems with my truck turned out the FICM was bad I found some info with detailed instructions and pictures and fixed it myself Ive researched alot of info and was about to drop $400 on a FICM then I read that I could fix it myself easily I found the picured instructions on how to re-flow solder the FICM its 24 spots and its not hard at all if you follow the directions and look at the pics it cost me less than $20 (soldering iron $4 solder $11 flux $4)and about an hour it now works like a new one after I fixed it I still had problems i could not figure out but did by accident by taking the advise on "Diesel Bombers" i checked sensors cleaned sensors did a diagnostic that said everything was fine with the motor which turns out it was i was told to run some REV X, i ordered the REV X and it should be here tommorow I figured I would change the oil before I put the REV X in so I would have new oil to put it in so I did this morning, I have had diesels in the past trucks and tractors and allways ran the same oil and it never let me down but it did this time not knowing the consequences I ran that same oil in this truck not thinking anything of it Mystic 15W50 when I changed my oil I decided to try Rotella because ive heard people talking about it after i put the Rotella in it runs like new no problems at all i havent even put the REV X in the Mystic is to sticky and doesn't let the injector function right which I didn't know so if your having problems with your 6.0 or any EFI and have Mystic or any thick oil or cheap oil in it get it out run a CJ-4 approved oil and see how it runs it was a hard long road for me to figure this out just remember its usaully the simplest thing that is wrong I hope this helps somebody one day lesson learned DONT RUN MYSTIC IN YOUR 6.0 its great for your old tractor or mechanical engine but not for this one again thanks for all the help and advise

 

Oil is crucial in a motor that relies on it to fire it's injectors. 7.3's and 6.0's are two of the most affected by this.

 

I got lost in the list of problems and your fixes. I have an 06 F-250 6.0 4x4. About 2 years ago, I noticed a lack of get up and go in the morning when it gets cool (less than 50 degrees or so). I pull onto a 55mph HWY 2 blocks from my house. It doesn't seem to have power and the RPMs go way up before it shifts or unless I let up on the gas pedal to help it shift. After 1-2 minutes, it runs fine the rest of the day. You mentioned the same problem. What was your fix for that?

 

I didnt fix the shifting problem it has done that for the 2 years i have owned it its not as bad anymore since i fixed the ficm a guy i work with has one with 80k miles on it and his does the same thing if he doesnt let it warm up my truck has 233k on it and runs like a new one after a 1/4 mile in the morning and i figure if that is all that is wrong with it now im happy i have no idea what the problem is maybe someone else will read this and tell us but its not high on my list of priorities to figure it out