Low Rpm at start
#41
11-11-2011, 06:14 PM
You could... I would really try and get that off as it is. Go buy one of the sockets made for rounded bolts and giverhell. You can always try taking the turbo apart in pieces the way it sits there.
Why is the turbo coming off again? (I'm going on 2 hours of sleep since Wed, and Thurs I was in a truck driving for 11 hours, my brain is shot, so forgive me if we already went over this)
Why is the turbo coming off again? (I'm going on 2 hours of sleep since Wed, and Thurs I was in a truck driving for 11 hours, my brain is shot, so forgive me if we already went over this)
#42
11-14-2011, 04:58 AM
I was doin the egr delete. I got the turbo off. I ended up just cutting the one bolt off. I bought two different kinds of rounded off bolt sockets and a $20 6 inch pipe wrench and couldnt get it to break loose. Got the turbo off the truck and hooked a big pipe wrench to what was left of the bolt thinkin it would be tough to get off and it spun right off! Anyways now I need a part number for the bolt. Im goin to the ford dealership after work and Ive got one thats still in one piece. I did buy some from auto zone that would work but dont know if they would hold up to the heat. They are 8.8 grade metric bolts. Hope I dont have any leaks. i really dont wanna tear this m-fer apart again for a while.
Oh and how important is it to use the inch pounds torque wrench on the intake manifold? I tightened them all down snug. The reason I ask is that I really dont wanna go out and buy a inch pounds torque wrench but if Its gonna cause me problems then I would rather do it now then later.
Oh and one more thing. The hose that runs from top passenger side of the intake (looks like a vacuum line) to some sorta box had a hole in it. If it was a gas truck I would think that would cause some of its running problems. What do you think? I swear I could hear a hissing noise on that side sometimes when I would shut the truck off.
Oh and how important is it to use the inch pounds torque wrench on the intake manifold? I tightened them all down snug. The reason I ask is that I really dont wanna go out and buy a inch pounds torque wrench but if Its gonna cause me problems then I would rather do it now then later.
Oh and one more thing. The hose that runs from top passenger side of the intake (looks like a vacuum line) to some sorta box had a hole in it. If it was a gas truck I would think that would cause some of its running problems. What do you think? I swear I could hear a hissing noise on that side sometimes when I would shut the truck off.
#43
11-14-2011, 10:24 AM
You can get the bolts at the dealer for the turbo. They probably come in a kit though. I probably have a few extras I could have sent you, but I'm away for work for the entire week.
Don't need the torque wrench, just be sensible about it... Just remember where the studs go and where the bolts go or you're going to end up doing it 10x.
That hose is the MAP line and would make the truck run like complete garbage!!! EricC just had this same issue.
Don't need the torque wrench, just be sensible about it... Just remember where the studs go and where the bolts go or you're going to end up doing it 10x.
That hose is the MAP line and would make the truck run like complete garbage!!! EricC just had this same issue.
#44
11-15-2011, 07:30 AM
Well completed the egr delete. Still doin the shake thing. I did notice something tho. My alternator is getting freakin hot quick! Wondering if the alternator is going bad causing the belt to slip? I dont think an alternator should get that hot. It would have burnt me if I left it on there for a second. Guess it makes sense tho. It does act like it dosent have any ***** to start sometimes. Ugh....guess I will keep f-in with it. Im about ready to put er in neutral and push her off a cliff.
Oh and the dealership had 2 bolts. Only 11 bux after he discounted them. If they wouldnt have had any single bolts I would have had to buy the turbo service kit that had 3 bolts and a couple o-rings for $120!
Oh and the dealership had 2 bolts. Only 11 bux after he discounted them. If they wouldnt have had any single bolts I would have had to buy the turbo service kit that had 3 bolts and a couple o-rings for $120!
#45
11-29-2011, 12:48 PM
Ok. Little update on everything that Ive done to it since I got the truck.
1.EGR delete
2.spring upgrade
3.6.4 banjo bolts
4.rev x
5.put on a junk yard alternator from an 03
6.removed amsoil bypass kit
7.had to replace a headlight cause my big *** broke it walkin around the motor like a monkey.
8.put it 15w40 motorcraft instead of 5w20 amsoil
9.deleted cat and have 4 inch from turbo to the back
10.upper and lower ball joints
Im still having shaking when I first start it up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The only other thing I can think is maybe the starter is sticking? I emailed the previous owner tellin him about my problems and he said that the starter acted up one time and he hit it with a hammer and then it started. Im runnin outta **** to replace. Check out the second video if you havent already. I will try to get another sometime when it does it longer. And one from outside the truck. It only does this at start up and then it runs great. May not do it again the rest of the day starting it up or it may do it all day.
1.EGR delete
2.spring upgrade
3.6.4 banjo bolts
4.rev x
5.put on a junk yard alternator from an 03
6.removed amsoil bypass kit
7.had to replace a headlight cause my big *** broke it walkin around the motor like a monkey.
8.put it 15w40 motorcraft instead of 5w20 amsoil
9.deleted cat and have 4 inch from turbo to the back
10.upper and lower ball joints
Im still having shaking when I first start it up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The only other thing I can think is maybe the starter is sticking? I emailed the previous owner tellin him about my problems and he said that the starter acted up one time and he hit it with a hammer and then it started. Im runnin outta **** to replace. Check out the second video if you havent already. I will try to get another sometime when it does it longer. And one from outside the truck. It only does this at start up and then it runs great. May not do it again the rest of the day starting it up or it may do it all day.
#46
11-29-2011, 01:06 PM
I can't see the starter causing that, don't they only work one way? So they engage one direction, (when you're cranking to start) but if force was applied from the other direction, it would just free spin? I guess if it was dragging... never really heard of that though...
Here's a little story to get you thinking...
I just had a FICM that I got from Karls03 as an experimental unit. He told me it was bad, and I thought I could fix it. So he sent it to me and I went to town. I never bothered checking initial voltage, because he told me it was bad, but I kind of wish I had. I pulled it apart, my buddy and myself went through it and did our normal soldering upgrade. We did 3 FICM's total that night. When we solder them, we put them back together, then install on the truck and do a voltage reading. The truck was still warm from my drive home however... So all 3 FICM's went on the truck, all 3 tested good, including Karls FICM. 48+ V at all 3 operations. I also start the truck (obviously since the last step is to check it running) and let it idle for a few minutes. Initially the truck barely started and ran like complete poo. I went to remove the FICM and as I lifted it up, once of the harness plugs popped out, indicating it had not been fully seated. Mind you, the FICM still read 48V at all operations. I plugged it in and heard the "click" this time... truck fired right up, ran smooth, no issues! Great!
Well before I sell any of these FICM's, I always road test them all on my own personal truck. When I got to Karls FICM... I went out to leave for work one morning, turned the key and all the injectors buzzed really good, so I was confident. Fire the truck up and it spits and sputters and has an erratic idle. I drove it around the block and was so skeptical of its performance I drove back to the house and backed in the driveway and contemplated taking the gf's car to work. I let it idle for a minute and decided to drive it anyways, just for experimental sake. As the truck came up to full temp, all of the symptoms disappeared (is this starting to sound familiar?). The truck ran like a top once up to full temp, and didn't miss a beat. I could shut the truck off and restart no issues and it would run great... until.... it cooled off, then it was a PITA to get started, and ran like complete dog crap until it warmed up. I'm talking a violent shake to the truck, the nosiest 8 injectors you could imagine and just overall terrible sounding.
Not more than a couple days later, and all of a sudden, my batteries are completely dead. Ok, maybe the dead batteries caused the FICM to run poorly. On went a fresh set of 880CCA Napa batteries. Truck spun over VERY quick, injectors buzzed quickly, truck still ran like complete garbage when cold. I swapped that FICM off and put another 4-pin job on that I had repaired in the same batch and wha-la, my truck hasn't run this smooth or quiet in a LONG time (thanks mostly to new batteries).
My whole point is, even though the FICM is reading 48V at all positions, it could still very well be bad. Let me see what I have for extra FICM's at the house, and I want to send you one to try. Just cover the shipping from me to you and it's yours to try. If it works, I'll sell it to you, if not, just ship it back to me. Sound good?
Here's a little story to get you thinking...
I just had a FICM that I got from Karls03 as an experimental unit. He told me it was bad, and I thought I could fix it. So he sent it to me and I went to town. I never bothered checking initial voltage, because he told me it was bad, but I kind of wish I had. I pulled it apart, my buddy and myself went through it and did our normal soldering upgrade. We did 3 FICM's total that night. When we solder them, we put them back together, then install on the truck and do a voltage reading. The truck was still warm from my drive home however... So all 3 FICM's went on the truck, all 3 tested good, including Karls FICM. 48+ V at all 3 operations. I also start the truck (obviously since the last step is to check it running) and let it idle for a few minutes. Initially the truck barely started and ran like complete poo. I went to remove the FICM and as I lifted it up, once of the harness plugs popped out, indicating it had not been fully seated. Mind you, the FICM still read 48V at all operations. I plugged it in and heard the "click" this time... truck fired right up, ran smooth, no issues! Great!
Well before I sell any of these FICM's, I always road test them all on my own personal truck. When I got to Karls FICM... I went out to leave for work one morning, turned the key and all the injectors buzzed really good, so I was confident. Fire the truck up and it spits and sputters and has an erratic idle. I drove it around the block and was so skeptical of its performance I drove back to the house and backed in the driveway and contemplated taking the gf's car to work. I let it idle for a minute and decided to drive it anyways, just for experimental sake. As the truck came up to full temp, all of the symptoms disappeared (is this starting to sound familiar?). The truck ran like a top once up to full temp, and didn't miss a beat. I could shut the truck off and restart no issues and it would run great... until.... it cooled off, then it was a PITA to get started, and ran like complete dog crap until it warmed up. I'm talking a violent shake to the truck, the nosiest 8 injectors you could imagine and just overall terrible sounding.
Not more than a couple days later, and all of a sudden, my batteries are completely dead. Ok, maybe the dead batteries caused the FICM to run poorly. On went a fresh set of 880CCA Napa batteries. Truck spun over VERY quick, injectors buzzed quickly, truck still ran like complete garbage when cold. I swapped that FICM off and put another 4-pin job on that I had repaired in the same batch and wha-la, my truck hasn't run this smooth or quiet in a LONG time (thanks mostly to new batteries).
My whole point is, even though the FICM is reading 48V at all positions, it could still very well be bad. Let me see what I have for extra FICM's at the house, and I want to send you one to try. Just cover the shipping from me to you and it's yours to try. If it works, I'll sell it to you, if not, just ship it back to me. Sound good?
