Clueless female diesel owner! Please help!
#11
08-26-2011, 09:03 PM
No such thing, just put a stocker back on and a coolant filter, you'll be fine. The stocker is fine, if you can keep the block castings from clogging it up.
I do not buy into the whole Ford Gold coolant sludging crap up and clogging the oil cooler, I believe it to be grade A bull. JMO!
The things that CAN cause the Ford gold coolant to sludge up are mixing it with normal green antifreeze, a big no-no, and using a charged filter for the coolant filters. I've seen this more than once and then guys automatically point fingers at the gold coolant.
Yet, no one here can explain why none of the ELC coolants everyone is using do NOT MEET Ford's specs for coolant.... posted this info a while ago and no one had anything to say about it.
I do not buy into the whole Ford Gold coolant sludging crap up and clogging the oil cooler, I believe it to be grade A bull. JMO!
The things that CAN cause the Ford gold coolant to sludge up are mixing it with normal green antifreeze, a big no-no, and using a charged filter for the coolant filters. I've seen this more than once and then guys automatically point fingers at the gold coolant.
Yet, no one here can explain why none of the ELC coolants everyone is using do NOT MEET Ford's specs for coolant.... posted this info a while ago and no one had anything to say about it.
Ford does say that head gasket leaks can cause a reaction between the coolant and the combustion gas though. This reaction does form the gel that folks see. So ... the Gold stuff CAN have issues, but it seems that the issues most likely occur in conjunction with something else. So, while I agree that mixing coolants is not adviseable, and I agree that you have to use the proper additives ............... I suspect that head gasket leaks and EGR cooler leaks also contribute largely to the issue.
Furthermore, I have heard of two cases where the red ELC coolant has gelled up also. So, NOTHING is fool proof and trouble free.
Hopefully the OP is not using Dexcool. While Dexcool is technically an ELC coolant, I don't believe it is properly rated (ie EC-1) for diesel service.
#12
08-26-2011, 11:37 PM
At that temperature spread between the oil and coolant I would be more worried about sticking the pistons in the bores than the head gaskets.
The pistons are cooled with oil. The cylinder is cooled with the coolant. If the oil gets hot enough the piston can grow larger than the hole it's in. That is bad.
The pistons are cooled with oil. The cylinder is cooled with the coolant. If the oil gets hot enough the piston can grow larger than the hole it's in. That is bad.
#13
08-27-2011, 05:34 AM
Diesel Wrench
Truck has 73,000 miles and is completly stock. Put 1/2 quart of coolant for the first time about 1 month ago. It will drive fine for days then all of a sudden it will start to die and when I push on the throttle it does nothing and eventually dies, turns over but will not start. The next day it starts fine and will run great again for a while. I've only had this happen twice. The truck when running never gets hot or shows any signs of there being a problem. The dealer siad "the oil cooler is not cooling the oil and the truck shuts down when it gets to hot as a safety measure" if this is the case then how could it get so hot as to ruin the head gaskets? Doesn't make sense.
Everything I'm seeing is suggesting to put an upgraded oil cooler on it, could you suggest a certain one? Also should I replace anything else while we are doing the cooler?
The oil filter I last put on was from Napa, should I get a specific type?
The information I'm getting is very helpful and I really appreciate it.
Everything I'm seeing is suggesting to put an upgraded oil cooler on it, could you suggest a certain one? Also should I replace anything else while we are doing the cooler?
The oil filter I last put on was from Napa, should I get a specific type?
The information I'm getting is very helpful and I really appreciate it.
I had a 05 6.0 Soon your turbo will go out, you need to put in a fuel pressure gauge because when your fuel pump goes out it will take out all your injectors. My best friend has replaced 24 injectors just because of fuel pump failures. That is only 9000 right therev
Head gauskets are goiing to run you around 3500 to have them done.
#14
08-27-2011, 09:52 AM
I have seen multiple makes and models cost people THOUSANDS. It can happen to any of them. Maybe the 6.0L has a bigger share, but who knows for sure ..... lots of good ones out there. No need to listen to "doom and gloom" posts at this point IMO.
It is very important to get the NAPA oil filter out of there. Aftermarket filters have been the cause of many issues (no starts, reduced oil flow, etc), although your problems seem to be more significant.
With the oil cooler code, please do not drive it. You do not want to rupture the oil cooler - that gets BAD. If you MUST drive it, do so only after changing the oil and filter and flushing the dexcool out of it (unless it was EC1 rated coolant). I know you said that your hsuband just changed the oil, but the wrong filter was used. 15W40 Rotella diesel oil is fine since you do not know how much engine work you will soon be having (Rotella is usually a little more reasonable in price). Get a motorcraft oil filter (Walmart sells them).
One thing is you MUST find a dealership or independent mechanic that you trust. Most likely the previous advice regarding appropriate repairs is sound (oil cooler, BulletProof EGR cooler, address leak areas in the high pressure oil system), but that is why you need to trust your mechanic. Just so you know, Hummin Cummins was correct on one thing - these repairs are not cheap, but neither is "dumping" a vehicle that isn't working and then buying something else.
First dealership concerns:
1. they did not pick up on the oil/coolant temp differential earlier (it really isn't hard to do)
2. they did not take action on the loss of coolant (even though you say it is not a lot)
3. they changed out a FICM - apparently with no codes
4. You have some signs that might indicate a small leaks in the high pressure oil system. Apparently they did not mention that or do any tests for it (did they?).
Does the truck have gauges (how are you reading the oil and coolant temps)? Any mods (like a chip or tuner)? I assume it still has the EGR system?
It is very important to get the NAPA oil filter out of there. Aftermarket filters have been the cause of many issues (no starts, reduced oil flow, etc), although your problems seem to be more significant.
With the oil cooler code, please do not drive it. You do not want to rupture the oil cooler - that gets BAD. If you MUST drive it, do so only after changing the oil and filter and flushing the dexcool out of it (unless it was EC1 rated coolant). I know you said that your hsuband just changed the oil, but the wrong filter was used. 15W40 Rotella diesel oil is fine since you do not know how much engine work you will soon be having (Rotella is usually a little more reasonable in price). Get a motorcraft oil filter (Walmart sells them).
One thing is you MUST find a dealership or independent mechanic that you trust. Most likely the previous advice regarding appropriate repairs is sound (oil cooler, BulletProof EGR cooler, address leak areas in the high pressure oil system), but that is why you need to trust your mechanic. Just so you know, Hummin Cummins was correct on one thing - these repairs are not cheap, but neither is "dumping" a vehicle that isn't working and then buying something else.
First dealership concerns:
1. they did not pick up on the oil/coolant temp differential earlier (it really isn't hard to do)
2. they did not take action on the loss of coolant (even though you say it is not a lot)
3. they changed out a FICM - apparently with no codes
4. You have some signs that might indicate a small leaks in the high pressure oil system. Apparently they did not mention that or do any tests for it (did they?).
Does the truck have gauges (how are you reading the oil and coolant temps)? Any mods (like a chip or tuner)? I assume it still has the EGR system?
Last edited by bismic1; 08-27-2011 at 09:59 AM.
#15
08-27-2011, 11:09 AM
Thanks guys!
We are going to install the bullet proof oil cooler and egr. Now they are telling me that the water pump may need to be replaced. Again no symptoms. They are quoting me 1600 just for the water pump which I could see if they were not already in there to replace the oil cooler. Am I way off base here? How much is a water pump?
My truck is payed for and I really like it. My intention is to keep it for a long time even though many including the ford dealership where I bought it are telling me to dump it. It would be nice if they would just honor their product!
Any other suggestions on what I should do to the truck for longevity would be great. I've already learned quite a bit. Thanks again!
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
No mods on the truck. So far it's completely stock. Should I put additional gauges?
We are going to install the bullet proof oil cooler and egr. Now they are telling me that the water pump may need to be replaced. Again no symptoms. They are quoting me 1600 just for the water pump which I could see if they were not already in there to replace the oil cooler. Am I way off base here? How much is a water pump?
My truck is payed for and I really like it. My intention is to keep it for a long time even though many including the ford dealership where I bought it are telling me to dump it. It would be nice if they would just honor their product!
Any other suggestions on what I should do to the truck for longevity would be great. I've already learned quite a bit. Thanks again!
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
No mods on the truck. So far it's completely stock. Should I put additional gauges?
Last edited by Melanie; 08-27-2011 at 11:09 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#16
08-27-2011, 11:19 AM
#17
08-27-2011, 02:25 PM
The water pump (part # 4C3Z-8501-AC) is $160 at TousleyForParts.com.
IMO the price seems quite high because installation is not all that hard. The only thing that might make the price reasonable is if they would find cavitation damage to the front cover and would replace that also.
Don't forget about the STC one-piece fitting, dummy plugs, and standpipes (at least have them test the high pressure oil system). Once all of this is taken care of, you should be in great shape!
IMO the price seems quite high because installation is not all that hard. The only thing that might make the price reasonable is if they would find cavitation damage to the front cover and would replace that also.
Don't forget about the STC one-piece fitting, dummy plugs, and standpipes (at least have them test the high pressure oil system). Once all of this is taken care of, you should be in great shape!
#18
08-29-2011, 06:51 PM
You need to find a new mechanic. You may check out BPD's preferred installer list. They should know all the "ins and outs" of the BPD install
BulletProofDiesel - Darn-Near Bullet Proof Diesel Products for your 6.0
BulletProofDiesel - Darn-Near Bullet Proof Diesel Products for your 6.0
#20
12-11-2011, 10:00 PM
Diesel Bomber
Since, your female I would highly reccomend taking your truck to a mechanic or different dealer with whom you feel comfortable with or have positive references, no offense but I've seen many woman who get ripped of just simply because mechanics take advantage of them which is very wrong. It's happened to my girlfriend, mom, grandmother and close friends. Dealers will tell you to dump your current vehicle simply because they can take your truck and fix it sell it for more than they give and have you buy a new one they make money off of.
Strokin' Away
Strokin' Away
