Got a code for bad oil cooler on 2005 6.0, which cooler is the best?

 

You can get an OEM, or an OEM.

You can always get a bulletproof delete setup, if you want to spend $1900.

Put a coolant filter on this time around when you install the new oil cooler. Chances are if the oil cooler is actually plugged and you don't have an EGR cooler delete, you'll need one of those too...

What code did you get, cause I don't remember ever seeing or hearing of a code for an oil cooler...

 

I've done EGR delete,muffler delete,cat delete, installed coolant filter. The wrench light on dash board came on,went out when ignition was turned off. When to the dealer,pulled codes, P012F-60-PCM, engine coolant temp/engine oil temp correlation,P1408,P0404.

 

Hmm, I've never even heard of that. P0404 and P1408 are both EGR related, due to the delete.

I found this about updated flash for 05 trucks...

here are some things that the new flash does for the 05'

2005 F-Super Duty 6.0L:

False DTC P0470 - Exhaust pressure sensor A circuit fault due to a freezing condition.
False DTC P0404 - Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) performance due to a stuck turbocharger condition.
Cooling loss protection - Revised engine protection strategy when an engine over-temperature condition is present. Vehicles updated with this service calibration will display higher temperature gauge readings when high engine oil temperature (EOT) conditions or high engine coolant temperature (ECT) are encountered and may disable EGR operation to prevent possible EGR cooler damage.
Oil cooler efficiency monitor - DTC P012F stored and wrench warning lamp illuminated when the oil coolers efficiency drops below a specified threshold for a given speed and vehicle load condition.
Turbocharger vane sweep strategy - Performs a sweep of the turbocharger vanes and unison ring during stationary idle conditions. Vane sweep can occur once per hour to help reduce turbocharger sticking.
FICM low voltage detection monitor - DTC P0560 stored and wrench warning lamp illuminated when PCM vehicle power (VPWR) parameter identifier (PIDS) is below 10.25V for 60 seconds or below 9V for 4 seconds.
Turbocharger over boost detection - DTC P0234 stored and wrench warning lamp illuminated when a turbocharger over boost condition occurs.

So it seems pretty limited, kind of cool it actually threw a code for the oil cooler not working great... interesting.

Sounds like you need an oil cooler brother! I would just get a new one personally, they're cheap (compared to bulletproof), but if you got the dough, the bulletproof setup looks pretty dang sweet.

 

would this happen to sound like the turbo is spooling up and then dumps the boost and then just rumbles like a big v8 untill the turbo spools back up??? my truck use to do this once in a blue moon, but after I cleaned the turbo and put in my egr delete, it would do it everytime I started the truck if it idled for more then 30 seconds. some times two or three times in a row.

I'm not sure if it still does it with my tunes from innovative. havent heard it yet, but its only been a day. what ever it was, it sounded awsome with the 5 inch. I let my buddy drive it to town, she called me thirty minutes later asking me why my truck would spool up with no one in it. I told her it just does that.

 

This is his son again. I pulled the codes for dad.
The egr codes dont matter, he did the delete. the light isnt on, so who cares.
the correlation code is the temp difference between the coolant temp and oil temp. there is no visible gauge, but a sensor and pid in the ford IDS software. the pcm sees that the oil temp is much higher than the coolant (assuming coolant temp is ok, which is easy to see) and sets the code.

Seems like oem would be the way to go. You have the coolant filter, so you should have a easy 100k out if the new one. $1900 is a hefty chunk.

BTW, the head studs are no different in the amount of effort to change the bolts. You may be able to leave the heads on, replace one at a time, removing them in the de-torque sequence and torquing the studs to spec. To change the rear bottom bolt on the pass side the firewall is in the way. the motor mounts will need to be at least be unbolted. maby be taken out. then lower then engine (if removing mounts are necessary) and rock it to the side out of the way. I talked to a tech that just did it, but the heads were off at the time, so like normal the stud/bolt goes in the head while its being installed to the block.

 

yeah screw that cab comes off for studs or oem bolts.

 

Cab doesn't "have" to come off. There are other ways, like what 2FordStrokers is saying, pull the bolt out put the stud in and torque it. You can even take the heads off the engine without pulling the cab. That's what a buddy and I did for his truck, pulled the topend apart, kept everything organized on the workbench, did studs, new gaskets, egr delete, remote oil cooler from BulletProof, and coolant filter. Along with a fresh pan of oil and a coolant swap. All in all it took 2 days including B&B (beer and bullshit) time, pulled the truck into his garage Friday afternoon, fired her up and did a test drive Sunday evening. If you plan on doing studs yourself, make sure you have ALL the parts and tools necessary ON HAND. We did and the process went extremely smooth.

 

Yes, it's in most of the newer strategies from Ford, to keep the vanes from sticking.

There is absolutely no way I would replace the bolts one at a time with studs, that's a complete waste of time. If the heads aren't flat, which you can bet they are not, then whoever is doing the job, would end up doing it twice. Do it right, do it once.

If you want to do it cab on, you can also dent the firewall a little behind the insulation in the back on the drivers side to get clearance for that bolt to come out. Then on reassembly, just rubberband the the stud to the head.

Yeah, that is definitely the way I would do it if I had the capabilites. Instead I'll just let you do it for me!

Again, no way in he!! I would do it without taking the heads off and bringing them to the machine shop. Waste of time otherwise.

 

Pulled oil cooler off, a little coolant spilled from cooler into the oil, because the screen was bad, some coolant went down channel to high pressure oil pump, used vacuum parts cleaner to suck coolant out of the channel, is that sufficient or does the oil pump need to be removed?