Ok my truck is pi..ing me off I thought the glow plugs were bad bc I could plug it in and it would start right up and run fine. Well now it will still start only if it is plugged in and when you are cruising it runs fine, but once you give it some throttle around 3000 rpm's it's like it is missing out really bad. I checked the FICM about a month and a half ago and it was reading 44.5 45 volts DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEA WHAT IT COULD BE? Another thing I just replaced the fuel filters they had not been changed for 11000 miles and i have not drove it since but it still wouldnt start bc I left it unplugged.

 

Which ficm pid did you monitor? M_PWR should not drop below 40v at wot make sure its not fluctuating. Another thing you could be having, a high pressure oil leak starting to show its ugly face. Typically find the STC brackets to fail and replace with a solid adaptor, and the stand pipe and dummy plugs in the front of the oil rail start to tear. if you remove them and see tiny bits of rubber and maybe a small flat spot or missing material from Oring, there you go.

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BTW a healthy ficm should be at 48v.

 

Ok I looked under my truck and it had oil on the oil pan, but I just changed my oil so i will wipe it down and see what happens. And im not sure exactly what you are talking about with the high pressure oil leak but how much is this repair and can it be done by me? Ohh and the ficm i monitored was the one on the driver side by the behind the air filter i believe.

 

High pressure oil leak is internal in the engine. Your injectors fire off of up to 3000psi+ of oil pressure, there are 2 oil pumps. Base engine gearotor pump in front of engine behind crank pulley and front cover, thats your low oil pressure pump, High pressure pump is in the back of the motor on the top underneath and behind turbo. Depending early or late build 6.0 intake may or may not have to be removed to get to it. You have off the back of the pump an STC fitting think of it as a quick disconnect air line for air tools/hose. They will vibrate lose and lose pressure. Some can cause the 6.0 to miss under load or wot.
From there the oil passes through the branch tubes which run just in front of your cam/crank timing gears. They go up under the cam tunnel its a solid tube that splits off into a Y at the ends of the Y are branch tubes that feed oil up to the oil rail through stand pipes. In the oil rail are dummy plugs at the front 10mm allen head as well as the stand pipes (if theyre original oem from the factory never been changed) I always install the updated ones. before they had the updated stand pipes and dummy plugs i expiramented with the LCF ones. 2 years later ford caught on... (apparently i wasnt the only tech to expirament with the LCF stand pipes and dummy plugs)

Now as for your FICM. You need to monitor this with a scan tool preferably the IDS. Snap-On modis and solous can monitor M_PWR FICM_SYNC and L_PWR.

Based upon your question on whether you can do the repair or not, if you havent ever wrenched a 6.0 and i dont want to sound like im comming off as a D!CK but if youve never wrenched on before, dont bother attempting this repair. You will need quite a bit of tools and ALOT of patience otherwise you will hate your truck and probably sink a pry bar through the windshield. I have seen guys who work for Dodge or GM and have thier own private shops attempt to diag and repair 6.0s that are out of warranty, i end up comming to thier rescue at 50 dollars an hour.

 

OK thanks for the info I am going to have it diagnosed sometime this week and get to the bottom of it.

 

The pre-2005 "HPOP to branch tube" connection does not really have a history of failing. The solid adapter update does not fit this model year.

Also, the TSB (TSB 10-12-6) states that FICM power should always be above 45V - you can check it by opening up the panel on the top of the FICM and using a DVOM on two of the pins (I can post a link in a bit). Thing is - this voltage check is not a 100% certain way to identify a bad FICM ...... but if the voltage is low, the FICM must be repaired or replaced.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/89...procedure.html