I am thinking that I have a Thermostat stuck closed, but I am not sure. Any Ideas would be great.

I was going to work this morning and noticed that I had no heat in the cab. It was a little chilly so I turned it up to find all I had was Cold Air comming from the vents. This was odd to me b/c after 10-15 min of driving there is ususally way too much heat. Then I got to checking the guages. The OE temp guage was a little on the high side and would rise and fall depending on how long I was holding down on the skinny peddle or coasting down the hill. My after market water temp guage on the other hand seemed to be slowly increasing.

I have a 30min. drive into work in the morning and by the time I got there the aux guage was reading about 210 F. I am not the brightest but this is not normal or good.

Got to work and shut the truck down. Nothing smelled Hot or was spilling on the ground, so either I am out of water or I have it and it is just not moving. I was still pretty dark here at 5:30 so I'll have to give it a good checking when I get off at 6.

If anyone has any ideas, please let me know.

 

210 doesn't sound that out of the ordinary... I mean they do sell 203* thermostats. So 210 doesn't sound unreasonable. You could just be low on coolant too, you'll want to check that out. The 6.0 also uses a plastic impeller on the water pump, and I've heard of them falling apart over the years. Do you have a coolant filter?

 

that is a negative on the coolant filter, but I have been looking into the idea since I got the truck and started hanging around some of these forums. I didn't think about the water pump.... Is there anything I can test or check to confirm or deny this, or do I just need to strart tearing into this project.

 

A simple infrared heat gun pointed at a few different areas on the coolant lines would probably tell you if its circulating well or not. How is your coolant level? Have you ever done a coolant flush? If not, it may be a good time and you can inspect for tiny black plastic pieces (impeller parts breaking off).

 

+1 on what mdub said
same think happened with the ol blue turd (2000 eclipse), it was just low on coolant. radiator cap was bad and forced all of the coolant out of the overflow tank. after the new cap I used a heat gun to make sure the system was circulating.

 

Yeah, check to make sure the coolant cap is tight on there too. You can get a new one for $5 at NAPA. I've left mine loose so many times I've lost count, but I have it on/off 10x a week messing around with stuff. Just put a new NAPA one on mine yesterday actually, doesn't puke anymore!!

 

Findings: Got to the truck and found ground wet between the two front tires. Found a water hose and topped off the degass bottle (about 2gal needed). Checked for leaks again and saw a drip or two comming from one of the pulleys on the front of the engine. passed it off as poor filling technique. Got home and found the drip in the same location. It doesn't seem to be coming from any of the hoses and with the location being the front of the engine almost dead center, I'm thinking Water Pump

So, does anyone have any ideas or experience on Replacing the water pump? Any special tools needed? Any Info would be GREAT.

 

To access the water pump pulley bolts on a 6.0, you'll need to remove the shroud, yes, but you CAN get it out w/o pulling the radiator. Remove the upper radiator hoses (The large one and the smaller one going to the degas bottle), then pull up the deflector sheild (the black plastic piece that has the a/c info on it and the belt routing, etc.) Remove the radiator upper brackets. You'll see the wiring harness that connects the batteries underneath that. Pull the three gray push pins that hold the harness onto the core support out so the harness is loose. Then remove the harness clips that hold the harness onto studs on either side of the shroud so it can be moved from behind the radiator. Pull the radiator away from the shroud, towards the front of the truck, with the harness out from between it and the core support. Remove the two shroud retaining bolts (8mm heads.) Then lift the shroud out, being careful not to break the little nipple off the radiator where the hose from the degas bottle attaches.

Then you can reach in between the blades of the fan and get your fan clutch wrench on the big nut. You might be able to poke a medium shank screwdriver into one of the holes in the water pump pulley and get the pulley wedged against something to keep it from rotating if you dont have a spanner to fit this application. A couple of taps on the big wrench will pop the clutch loose and spin it off in a counter-clockwise manner. then unbolt the pulley and you will see the 4 bolts that hold the water pump into the front of the block. It is o-ring sealed and very easy to change. The inner half of the shroud is bolted with 4 bolts to the upper and lower front of the motor and will need to be removed at the same time you are lifting out the fan and clutch assembly. Also before the clutch is actually removed, it will appear that there is no room for the wrench to fit in between the third portion of the shroud or (stator) but the stator is somewhat flexible down towards the center of the fan clutch and the wrench can be pushed in with a little effort.

 

Hey thanks for all the info. Got it to the shop and pulled and replaced. Everything seems to be running normal now. For any one looking for some visual help this is a write-up someone sent me with some pictures. It helped me so I think it will help others.

"The fan clutch nut is 46mm I believe, but I used a 18" pipe wrench. Here's a write up with pics.
http://www.dieseltechtalk.com/forums...=5026#post5026 "

 

The link does not work for me .....