Popping Duct Hoses
#1
Popping Duct Hoses
The beast has awakened! Too much. Pulled up to 35 psi of boost and popped the Silicone duct hose coming out of turbo to the Intercooler. Man I hate that loud bang when it does that too. I new what it was when it did it as immediately the engine lost 90 percent power and egt went up to 1200. Pulled over to the side of the road and pulled out a 7/16 socket and put it back. For grins I pushed it again and of course she popped once more. By that time I was a mile from the yard. Pulled the hose off and inspected and it had oil residue (thank you ccv) in it. I've clean the hose, the inner lip of the turbo and the aluminum duct with Brake cleaner, but I not convinced it can consistently sustain high boost application. Ok, after all that "bs" what are the replacement options and/or advantages?
Thanks in advance,
deucer
Thanks in advance,
deucer
#3
#4
#5
Wasnt there some newer version of the hoses offered from Ford? I did mine about a year ago and the Ford parts guy gave me what he claimed to be the "newer" boots and clamps. I cleaned up all the mating surfaces and popped them on and theyve held pretty well. I think i've popped three over 35,000 miles or so on them... Thats why I keep a deep socket set with me at all times though!
That limp home mode it goes into when you pop one is nooooo fun!
That limp home mode it goes into when you pop one is nooooo fun!
#6
The new ones are orange inside, I think its more to keep the oil from eating the hose than to keep it from popping off. My original never popped off it just blew the whole side out. Making sure the surfaces are clean, dry and completely free of oil then use something sticky like hairspray. I used a sprayon belt dressing, let it dry and so far so good.
The new one from Ford was like $80.00. I think the ones from Dieselsite are a bit more, but its a better hose and I think its a little longer so you could get 2 clamps on each end.
The new one from Ford was like $80.00. I think the ones from Dieselsite are a bit more, but its a better hose and I think its a little longer so you could get 2 clamps on each end.
Last edited by papachuck; 12-26-2010 at 08:01 AM.
#7
Thanks for the input folks. Received my Mod kit Friday and I have to go to Homeless Depot and get some hoses and clamps to put it together. Don't see a problem with installation. I'll probably pull all the duct hoses off and thoroughly clean with brake cleaner and maybe pickup some hair spray for the final touch. I'm also leaning towards pulling the Intercooler and cleaning it too, but I haven't decided on what to use to clean.
#8
Thanks for the input folks. Received my Mod kit Friday and I have to go to Homeless Depot and get some hoses and clamps to put it together. Don't see a problem with installation. I'll probably pull all the duct hoses off and thoroughly clean with brake cleaner and maybe pickup some hair spray for the final touch. I'm also leaning towards pulling the Intercooler and cleaning it too, but I haven't decided on what to use to clean.
#9
The Stealth kit comes with a canister to mount to your frame. You also get a 6 to 8" piece of hose that runs under your degas bottle. You take the hose off the intake duct and remove the fitting that attaches to the duct and save it. Reposition hose coming out of valve cover with hose still attached then splice in additional hose under degas and over brake boost and down to where you mount the canister on the frame. Attach another hose to canister which returns back to original point on intake duct. Reinstall intake fitting to intake and hose and you're done.
To answer your original question "Ranger518": If your duct/boot has a place for the original fitting to attach then you don't have a problem as it will reattach at the same point. The key is making sure there are no kinks or low spots for the oil to accumulate in the hose going to the canister. If any residual is trapped at a low point in the hose it will be counter productive. Any oil that is in the line going to under the degas or over the brake boost will seep back to the valve cover which is good as it will be picked back up and cycled through the system anyway. Again the key is NO kinks in the hose going to the canister.
Done... CCV Mod has been installed complete. The hardest part was finding a location to mount the canister on the frame. After 45 mins. under, in and around the truck, I finally chose to mount it in the left front wheel well. I mounted approximately 2 & 1/2 inches aft of the shock, right where the brake lines bolt to the frame. There was one open hole I used and then trimmed the mount where it would lay across the bolt that holds the brake lines in place. I then drilled another hole in the frame to secure the back part of the mount. No, the brake lines do not interfere with the canister, as a matter of fact the lines actually go over the top of the canister. Before mounting, I did turn the wheel full left and right to ensure full clearance and there was plenty.
To answer your original question "Ranger518": If your duct/boot has a place for the original fitting to attach then you don't have a problem as it will reattach at the same point. The key is making sure there are no kinks or low spots for the oil to accumulate in the hose going to the canister. If any residual is trapped at a low point in the hose it will be counter productive. Any oil that is in the line going to under the degas or over the brake boost will seep back to the valve cover which is good as it will be picked back up and cycled through the system anyway. Again the key is NO kinks in the hose going to the canister.
Done... CCV Mod has been installed complete. The hardest part was finding a location to mount the canister on the frame. After 45 mins. under, in and around the truck, I finally chose to mount it in the left front wheel well. I mounted approximately 2 & 1/2 inches aft of the shock, right where the brake lines bolt to the frame. There was one open hole I used and then trimmed the mount where it would lay across the bolt that holds the brake lines in place. I then drilled another hole in the frame to secure the back part of the mount. No, the brake lines do not interfere with the canister, as a matter of fact the lines actually go over the top of the canister. Before mounting, I did turn the wheel full left and right to ensure full clearance and there was plenty.
Last edited by deucer; 12-26-2010 at 07:41 PM.
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