This may be a dumb question, but, if a SCT tuner will eliminate the use of an EGR completely, then why bother with the expense of an EGR delete?

 

The programmer only shuts off the function of the EGR valve, it goes from 100% operational to 95% off (max it can be done). Even though the function is turned off, it can still be blown open. Regardless, the bigger issue is the EGR cooler. A full delete setup will get rid of the valve and the cooler. The coolers have been known to rupture and then you will start pushing coolant.

If you have the money and live in a state where they don't emission test, do a full delete and throw a coolant filter on as well.

 

Mdub707
If you have the money and live in a state where they don't emission test, do a full delete and throw a coolant filter on as well.


agreed 100%

 

So much for the easy solution. I thought that if no hot gases were passing through the cooler there would be no chance of it messing up. I have never taken the top end apart so it might help me better understand how the whole thing works if I had. Thanks for the reply

 

The exhaust comes out of the manifolds, to the up-pipes and up to the turbo. The EGR cooler is attached to the up-pipe on the passenger side, so no matter what, the exhaust is running through the cooler, then into the intake through the valve. No matter what is done with the valve, the cooler is always going to have exhaust flowing through. Some have taken the cooler out, welded freeze plugs into the ends and put it back in. That will do the same thing as well. You can get full delete packages for under $200 on ebay, which is what I've done.

 

Thanks, that makes more sense now. The thought of trying to cool the exhaust with coolant made to cool the engine just seems like a stretch of engineering. I read the new 6.7 has 2 coolant systems independent of each other. Do you have an opinion on which type of EGR delete is the best? The welded freeze plug idea is basically just stopping the water flow through the cooler right? Does this interfere with the circulation pattern of the coolant?

 

Quite a few people have done the freeze plug method, and it is the least expensive way and it does work. If you do go this route, the freeze plug that gets placed by the up-pipe end of the cooler, needs to be set in about 1/4" and fully welded. I've heard of these popping out if not welded in properly (or not at all). It will stop the exhaust from flowing in, not the coolant. The cooler and still rupture, but all that will happen is it fills with coolant and that's that. The passage from there into the exhaust is blocked off with the freeze plug.

The 6.7's have a low temp and high temp EGR cooler setup yes. I think the 6.4's also had something similar to this.

As far as "best" EGR delete setup, it's all relative to what you want out of it. IMHO Doug from GoGo diesel offers the best delete kit out there. His includes machining of the intake manifold and re-routes the coolant so it physically doesn't even go through the intake manifold anymore. You can see pics on his website. Adam from FCDP has a nice kit too. Both of these kits are in the $600 range. You also need to pay a core charge on top.

I bought the RCD kit myself (river city diesel), as it was under $200 shipped on ebay and included everything to eliminate the cooler and the valve all together. I think it's one of the best inexpensive kits going.

The Freeze plug method works too... all up to you.

 

Thank you for taking the time to explain this.

 

No problem. Also as a side note, if you do go ahead and do the delete, you will more than likely get a check engine light on your 06 for insufficient EGR flow. You can only get rid of it with an SCT and custom tuning.

 

We have got great feedback on the Sinister Diesel Delete Kit.

Luke
DieselDawgs
(828)399-1556