2004 F250. Dealer says the transmission flush is recommended every 30k miles? Now at
83k, was going to bring it in tomorrow to have done (199.00). Anyone else have this done? Not sure what is involved. Is there a filter or something in there to clean also?

 

If they are doing just a service (filter and top off fluid) that would be ok (price seems a bit much).

But if they are talking about doing a machine flush I would decline, I have personally seen 5 trans. fail after a machine flush (2 are mine) and I will never have a flush done again!

 

Got this info on the 5R110, maybe it will make more sense...

The TorqShift transmission uses a new fluid--Mercon SP*. This is not interchangeable with Mercon (Dextron), Mercon V, or synthetic Mercon. Since there is no torque converter drain, servicing is ment to be done by automatic flush machine. The external filter--mounted on the cooler lines near the radiator--needs to be replaced at the service. Ford has no service interval for the internal pickup filter. I think it is a good idea to replace the internal filter at the service intervals as cheap insurance against a failure. There is a second transmission filter screen that is part of the valve body gasket, but it does not need to be replaced unless the transmission is being repaired.


More good info:

Recommended in the manual: Change the fluid and external filter every 30k.

The external filter (FT-145 or part # 3C3Z-7B155-BA OR aftermarket filter NTZ09-C09B) is behind the passenger side front bumper. I used an impact wrench to get the filter housing off to avoid twisting lines. It takes a 22 mm 6 point socket. You will lose very little fluid through changing the filter - only a few ounces.
To change the fluid, you can either drop the pan, drain, and refill, or you can flush it. If you have it flushed, it must be done with a heated machine (170 *F minimum - the thermostat begins to open at 165*F) to open up the internal thermostat (more than 90%) to get the torque converter flushed also.
If you drop the pan and the internal screen is clean, do not change. It only stops trees and boulders. Gasket is reuseable if not damaged.
Do not switch "to and from" Reverse without stopping completely. This is stated in the owners manual. It also states to not "rock" between Reverse and Drive for more than 1 minute or damage may occur. It needs just the basic care and PM and it should treat you very well.

 

Uhhh, that sucks! Now I am wondering if I should do a flush or just drain the pain and replace the 7-8 quarts and do the filter and let the rest be? I am going to check with a really really good transmission shop we have here locally. Thanks!

 

This is the first time I've heard of a transmission failing because of being flushed... but I guess anything is possible.

 

I'll try to explain: Drain and refill is easy, problem, you don't get it all because some torque converters have a anti drainback feature. Another advantage is you install a new filter.

A flush is just that, new fluid is being forced thru all the valves, seals and passages. Think of it as a kidney dyalasis machine.

Over time the passages, seals and valves develope a film of minute wear particules that actually are beneficial to the operation of the transmission. The pressure of the flush loosens some of this particulate and not all of if is suspended in the old fluid and some gets trapped in the filter (which is not changed in a flush) thereby restricting the flow of fluid. Not good. This not intended to say this happens all the time but, it does occur and when it does, the results are not good because the failure does not occur emmeditley after the flush.

Ask yourself this: Your buddy buys an older car, truck whatever. He, or maybe you decides to flush out all that old nasty oil and crud that has built up over the years. An additive is put into the crankcase, run thru the carburater and brand new oil is added. Within a few weeks the motor begins to use oil and may even smoke a little. Reason, all the the deposits that kept the engine internally tight have been removed.

Just my opinion, your's of course may vary.

 

What I've done is pulled the tranny plug & drain all the tranny fluid, then add new tranny fluid. I didn't change the filter

 

You had a tranny plug? I'm used to Chrysler trans. no factory plug, you have to drop the pan which gives access to the filter, easy change. A bit messy though.

I replaced mine with a Mag-Hytech, more fluid plus a drain plug.

 

There are plugs on these, or you can remove the pan as well to access the internal filter. There is NO drain for the torque converter though so that needs to be flushed. Maybe that's why they recommend it only every 30k miles, so you don't get a huge build up of particles in the transmission? Just thinking out loud here...

 

Good thinking on your part. No torque converter has a drain plug BTW. Good maint. involves periodic filter and fluid changes. No gettin around that.