Ford Powerstroke 03-07 6.0L Discussion of 6.0 Liter Ford Powerstroke Turbo Diesels

oil cooler/egr help

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Old 01-29-2009, 07:43 PM
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Default oil cooler/egr help

When I start my truck after it sits for a few hours, it stumbles and will barely get out of its own way. After driving for a mile or two its fine. Here recently, I've noticed some water leaking on the ground. Not much, just little tiny drops. Haven't added much coolant over the last yr, maybe 3 gallons, but I notice the water on the oil pan and the starter coming from the back of the motor. So I took it to Ford today because I have an after market extended warranty. Well, Ford told me I needed a new oil cooler because my EOT (engine oil temp?) and EGT's were more than the 15 degree difference in temp that they are allowed. I think he said they were 30 degrees different and the oil cooler was blocked so it needed replacing. He also said I needed a new EGR cooler. Im assuming thats the leak? So my questions are, is there anyway to "unclog" the oil cooler, compressed air, cleaner? Can I put on the EGR cooler bypass without any harm to the engine. I drive this truck daily, also do alot of road trips because my sons race dirt bikes. I know they say "offroad" only, but is that because of the emissions? I have no emissions in my state. Also, dealer said the head gaskets were not leaking "at this time" and I need to address this first and see what happens. Please help. Thank you Justin
 

Last edited by springhillracer; 01-29-2009 at 08:03 PM. Reason: more info
  #2  
Old 01-30-2009, 11:13 AM
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The EGR is not a state emissions thing, it is a FEDERAL emissions thing. Get a new oil cooler, an EGR cooler delete and a coolant filter set up. The Oil cooler clogging comes from the fact that there is quite a bit of crap left in our blocks after the casting process.

Where you described the puddle is usually the EGR cooler leaking. That's where mine was. Typically they replace the EGR cooler and the Oil cooler at the same time as the two fail hand in hand. My gaskets and studs came later.

BTW, I think you meant there was a difference between your EOT (Engine oil temp) and ECT (Engine Coolant Temp), not your EGT. I hope your EOT is never any where near the 1100* I have seen my EGT hit when pulling my RV.
 
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Old 01-30-2009, 03:44 PM
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My gaskets and studs came later.

BTW, I think you meant there was a difference between your EOT (Engine oil temp) and ECT (Engine Coolant Temp), not your EGT. I hope your EOT is never any where near the 1100* I have seen my EGT hit when pulling my RV.[/QUOTE]

I was just reading off his paper. What mileage were the head gaskets? So I guess I can put the egr cooler delete on there and just buy myself the oil cooler. It says it comes with a block that gets welded into the exhaust. Do you know if they make them bold on by chance. Thanks
 
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Old 01-30-2009, 05:09 PM
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Which kit are you looking at buying?
 
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Old 01-30-2009, 07:20 PM
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Saw a couple on EBAY. Like 145.00 sound right?
 
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Old 01-31-2009, 05:15 PM
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Sounds like it... don't know if anyone makes a bolt on like you are looking for
 
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Old 01-31-2009, 09:23 PM
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Ford allows a 15 degree separation in ECT/EOT. When the oil cooler plugs, it needs to be replaced - no cleaning them as far as I am concerned. When the oil cooler plugs, it restricts flow to the EGR cooler, and causes the solder inside to melt, and leak coolant. Generally - that leak you describe is the by-pass hose that goes between the EGR and engine oil coolers. Hop up and look down inside the intake by the charge air outlet of the turbo. There is a 2.5-3" hose down there, below the intake. Check and see if it's orange, or blue. If it's orange - this is likely your leak. Hope this helps. If you can get the cooler package covered by your warranty - do that, for sure. Check out tsb 08-11-3 for more information regarding this, and ignore the fact that it says 25 degrees in that tsb, they are working on updating it right now.
 
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Old 02-01-2009, 08:32 AM
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I thought the same on the hose leaking. I will check that. The warranty won't cover the oil cooler or the EGR cooler. He said there was a 29 degree difference between the two. How can I tell if the EGR cooler is leaking. If the hose is leaking I will replace that. If my oil cooler is clogged, I will replace that, but if the EGR cooler is not leaking should I leave it alone or get the delete kit while Im in there? Thanks guys, you are helping a bunch.
 
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Old 02-01-2009, 10:22 AM
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Send me the VIN for your truck.

It's an 03, so it likely has the round EGR cooler on it. I would at least have a look at it while you have it off and see if there's coolant staining in it. As I've said elsewhere, I have NEVER changed the early style EGR cooler, not to say there isn't a first time for everything, but I think you're probably safe there.

I would leave the EGR system intact, for a couple reasons.

1. It acts as a fail-safe wastegate against overboost.
2. Rumor mill has it that the federal emissions standards are going to change, and be set by individual states. I would wait until this changes before you do anything - just so you don't have to take it apart and replace EGR components that you've long since thrown out
 
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Old 02-02-2009, 11:33 AM
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Last 9 of the VIN are 73EC24294. Thank you.

Also, how can you tell if the EGR cooler is leaking. I pulled the EGR out, let the air out of my front tires, lefted the rear and don't see any coolant. I also hooked my scanner up to see what my EOT and ECT were and the most I got was a 19 degree difference. Usually it was sitting about 12 degree difference. What conditions are you supposed to check that for the oil cooler being bad? I see coolant leaking a little on the back side of the engine coming down the oil pan and also a little on the engine valley. I put my pressure gauge on the bottle and pumped it up to 15 psi. It dropped about 2 pounds in a 30 minute perieod.
 


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