Did you use a load tester and test them individually?

How about your battery ground connections ... all of then good and tight, and no corrosion?

 

Yes I tested both individually and even took the cables off and cleaned all the terminals with a terminal cleaner. I forgot to mention this and i can't believe I didn't put it in the original post but my truck has the EGR delete but no tuner, could that have anything to do with it? Also after trying to start the truck today I decided to check the oil filter and fuel filter again but I have no oil when I take the filter out (if that makes sense) but there is oil on the dipstick. Need a new HPOP?

 

Just as an fyi - these trucks do many odd things with even slightly flaky batteries. Always good to check. 194 rpm is good on the cranking (you can get more w/ a 6.4L or 6.7L starter).

Now - back to the ICP issue - Are you using an aftermarket oil filter or oil filter cap? The aftermarket caps are tall compared to say the 1 inch height of the OEM oil cap.

These aftermarket combinations have been known to NOT close the drain valve in the bottom of the oil filter bowl.

If the ICP sensor itself is an issue, then you can always disconnect it and try starting. The PCM will use default values.

I doubt that the EGR delete has anything to do with it.

 

Nope it's an OEM oil cap. I did find an old ICP sensor in my back seat this morning though so it has been changed before, I also took the plastic wrapping off the wiring harness that goes to the ICP sensor and checked to make sure it wasn't shorting out any where and it all looks good. Unplugging the ICP sensor doesn't change anything when trying to start either, I also unplugged the EBP sensor and it looked fine.

 

Just to make 100% sure (your answer didn't include the filter) ... OEM filter too?

Also, when you remove the oil filter cap, does it look like the oil has saturated ALL of the filter media (all the way to the top)?

Time to get actual engine data now that you can crank:

Get data w/ KOEO and when cranking:
ICP volts
ICP pressure
IPR % duty cycle
Cam/crank sync
FICM sync
FICM LPower
FICM VPower
FICM MPower
Fuel Pulse Width

 

Yeah it is an OEM filter but when I pulled it out earlier it's dry except for the very bottom... I'll get that data and post it up as soon as I get back to my truck

 

I think you might need to replace the drain valve.

To test it, you can push down on the valve (w/ a screwdriver) and crank to see if it holds oil. I would crank with the starter wire on the passenger fender wall, that way you won't try to add fuel when cranking. The bowl should fill in 2-3 seconds and not drain w/ the valve depressed.

 

Sorry for the delay but I'm not getting oil to the filter. It's not pumping oil into the filter at all. Also I'm not showing any ICP pressure during cranking?

 

So w/ the oil filter cap off, when you crank you see no oil flowing into the oil filter canister? None at all? You can also watch the fill rate by closing the drain valve (pushing down on it w/ a screwdriver. A healthy system will fill the oil filter canister in 3-4 seconds w/ the drain valve closed and 10-12 w/ the drain valve left open.

If your not getting oil to the filter, then the HPOP isn't getting any oil fed to it (so no ICP).

If no oil is flowing to the filter, then you more than likely have an issue with the LPOP, but before you tear into it, I would remove the LPOP regulator and inspect.

 

I removed the regulator and inspected it, looks good, no gouges or anything. Also stuck a small magnet where the regulator goes and no metal shavings or anything. The spring was not under pressure when I removed it, I think that's good right? I know the ICP sensor has been replaced before because when I bought the truck there was an old ICP sensor under the rear seat. Guess I will need to replace it again since I have no ICP pressure though, correct?