Good day,

I just bought a 2005 F350 6.0L with 185000 miles. Had trouble getting it started and idled rough until warm. Then I did some work and troubleshooting. Its had new head gaskets,arp head studs and egr delete put in a few years ago before I bought it. I have 48v at the ficm. At that point I had a hard start cold and rough idle but ran like a dream when warmed up. It started no problem when hot.
I had some time and I pulled all the injectors and replaced all the o rings and hp oil rail seals. Bench tested the ipr and worked fine. Bought new batteries, changed the oil/filter 15w40 and new fuel filters. Put in new glow plugs and glow plug harness as I broke a connector. Got it back together and now having a very hard start no start. It starts and spudders on a few cylinders. I did get it running once and ran very nice with a smooth idle. I have a basic scanner and get injector control pressure building up. It seems it takes a bit to get pressure. Cranking for a few seconds in get 120 psi then builds quick. Once I'm in the 500 psi ranges the engine trys to start on a few cylinders but won't run on all 8. I usually run out of battery at that point. The oil pressure drops when not cranking. I tryed unplugging the icp wire as well but no change. I just did an air leak test with 100psi shop air at the icp port. Key on to activate the ipr and no leaks can be heard. Indicating good lp oil pressure on the instrument guage.

I'm out of ideas! Any help would be great!!!

 

I should mention I had12v at the engine harness ipr connentor. No codes at all. I'm completely out of ideas now. Bad standpipe check valves? I could hear a bit of air internal by the hpop (silent under the valve covers) when doing the hp oil system air test when the key was off. But went away with key on when the ipr energized and closed.

 

i had the same problem and it was the ficm connectors loose under the ficm

i tried taking off in the cold and i broke the tab that keeps it in........

i installed the swamp 54 volt ficm and turns over fast in the winter

 

I appreciate the reply! Yes it does sound like the ficm and the injectors arent getting the order to fire.. I have full 48v now but will definitely check the connections. I did have it off before and made sure they were tight.

 

I checked the connections and they all all tight. I wiggled them loose and pushed them back in tight. Same issue I was having before. Long cranking and a few cylinders fired but no start. Ended up draining both batts. I also did an air bubble test while I was under the hood. No bubbles at all. Ficm main voltage was 48v and logic/vehicle voltage was 12v. Can a Ficm be bad and still getting proper voltage?