Soon after starting the ABS light turns on, then after driving for about a mile, the wrench light comes on. The truck misses intermittently.
My ScangaugeII does not pull any codes.

How do I diagnose this one?
-+

 

New information:
Using Auto-Enginuity, I pulled the following codes:
B1318 - Battery Voltage Low
Status of MIL - set; previously set history code
P0560 - System Voltage

B1318 is from the ABS System; I believe this is why the ABS light illuminated.

I think P0560 is from the Power Control Module

What do I do from here?

 

Update:

I looked at the cable connections to both batteries:
- The connection on driver side positive terminal was slightly corroded.
- All battery posts were black, like lead looks when it's been sitting out in the elements for a long time.

I cleaned all the corrosion using Battery Corrosion Cleaner.
I also used a battery terminal wire brush on all battery terminals and cable ends.
I also removed the felts that I had installed on the battery terminals. These are generally a good idea because they prevent battery acid from reaching the cable ends. However, in my case they caused the cable ends to be lifted up from the battery, preventing the connections from being as tight as they could be. Battery terminals are tapered, and if you don't press the cable end all the way down, the cable end must be tightened further to get the same contact pressure. In my case, the cable ends would bottom out before squeezing the terminals, which meant they were wiggling around.
And, I should have known better when I installed the batteries; it's always a good idea to brush the terminals with a stiff wire brush, even when installing new batteries.
Lastly, I coated the terminals with a good anti-corrosion grease.

So far, the 4 symptoms have gone away:
No more ABS light
B1318 has gone away on it's own without me clearing it.
P0560 has gone away without me clearing it.
The hesitation is gone.

I'm crossing my fingers that it was as simple as that. However, I know better than to hold my breath.

I'll post again after some time has past.

 

Update:
Problem was not completely cured by cleaning battery cables.
It was definitely better, however, 2 of the symptoms (ABS Light and B1318) came on again once this morning.

I have a voltage monitor in the cab and I caught sight of the voltage dropping to 9.57 volts after the truck had been warmed up. I was sure glad to get home after seeing that.

So, next attempt at curing the problem was to replace the alternator. I replaced it with a DC Power 185 Amp alternator, which I had sitting in the garage, waiting for the OEM unit to fail. I guess I should be happy the OEM unit lasted 116,000 miles; not bad, from what others have reported.

OK, so did it cure the problem?
This is what I know:
With the original OEM alternator, voltage went as low as 9.57 (from what I could see, although it could have gone lower). And it went as high as 13.05 volts, which is not real healthy.
With the DC Power Alternator voltage went as low as 12.87. And, it went as high as 13.87. I would like to see a high of 14.5 - 14.8, but I haven't driven it very far and I may well see this in the future...

We'll see whether this cures the problem...I'll report back later.

 

Update:
Problem not yet solved:
I now get B1318 from the following systems:
Anti-Lock Brake
Air-Bag
Gem Control Timer
Instrument Cluster CAN

KOEO
Voltage on Batteries = 12.5
Voltage on Auxilliary Port = 9.87

KOER
Voltage on Batteries = 14.8
Voltage on Output terminal on Alternator = 15
Voltage on Auxilliary Port = 9.47


OK, so it's obvious voltage is low to all these systems.

What would cause the voltage on all these systems to be low when the voltage on the batteries and the alternator is greater than 13?

What am I missing?

 

New information:
FICM Logic Voltage = 9.4
FICM Battery Voltage = 9.4
Power Control Module Voltage = 9.4

What is the Power Control Module? Does it do what the name implies? Does it control the voltage to some system components?

 

Update:
Reseated the remainder of the relays.
Cleaned a few more fuses with crc 2-62 contact cleaner.
Sprayed crc 2-62 on some of the ground connections under the dash and re-tightened them.
Re-tightened and sprayed then driver side battery ground cable connection to the chassis.

After doing all this the aux port voltage climbed to 12.3.

I'll report back again tomorrow after I start it up.

 

Update:

New symptom: Driver side battery down to 8.9 volts.
I suppose this could be from leaving monitor plugged into Aux port for 4 days.
I didn't think it possible to drain one battery but not the other, but, I'm going to assume this is possible and that the monitor was the cause for now.

Recharged driver side battery and tried to re-start.
It just cranked over a couple times and then stopped.
I'll re-charge both batteries and restart.

 

Update:

Found the problem!
It was a faulty cable running from the positive terminal on passenger side battery to the positive terminal on the driver side battery.

After charging the passenger side battery the truck started right up. I now know the truck will only start on one battery if it's fully charged.

The connections were good, but the cable had an open in it. Wow!

And, I spent a lot of time cleaning connections on cables and fuses, but I guess I should consider this as maintenance due.

I should also mention here that I found and re-tightened all the following grounds:
- Cable leading from negative post on passenger side battery cable to frame.
- Cable leading from negative post on passenger side battery cable to engine block.
- Cable leading from negative post on driver side battery cable to frame.
- Ground strap on passenger side from FRAME to CAB right under passenger seat under truck just about inline with the Powerstroke 6.0L emblem on the Door

For all these connections I loosened them, sprayed with CRC 2-26, then re-tightened them.
Hopefully, this short summary will save someone else some time.

 

When you replaced the crossover cable did your Alt. voltage go up to 14 +. Or did it stay in the 13.4 to 13.8 range. Mine is doing something really similar and I plan to inspect my crossover cable when I get off work tomorrow. Thanks