Also check the alt charging voltage and battery voltage which all contribute to FICM failures (besides heat and vibration). Plus do you still have the EGR? How does it look is it coked up or stuck. I had one and it did contribute to cold start issues but I also had bad injectors and turbo which I found out later.

On a side note congrats on your new purchase and when you get a chance check your fluids and filters. More than one Ford dealership installed non OEM filters (ask me how I know)which are essential on this engine. Consider some sort of monitor for long term use to keep an eye on engine parameters to keep you from having big failures later.

 

High pressure oil leak?
In 2010, I parked the truck to pick up dinner, came out and no start.
I upgraded the branch tube to the new style (solid pile with no Snap To Connect fitting). At the same time I replaced the stand pipes and dummy plugs. So, sorry to say, I don't know for sure where the leak was...just know it was one of these. I paid about $55 for the branch tube and $105 for the stand-pipes and dummy plugs. These are common failure points for the 6.0, and I did not want to have to break into it again for at least another 100,000 miles, so I did them all, along with a new oil cooler and BPD EGR cooler, as well as a few other things.
The truck is running great after putting 50,000 on it since I did the work.

 

Rowekmr/bustedknuckles thanks for the advice. I did check the charging system and batteries and everything tested normal. I do have a EGR still but hopefully not for long. I have a buddy who had to return his work truck and will be pulling his EGR Delete kit out and putting it in my truck. I don't know what kind of filters are on my truck as I just bought it used from a local Honda dealer. They had done a oil change just prior to me purchasing the truck. What effects would a non OEM filter have?

I also had a friend do a diagnostic on my truck using his computer he was able to check the glow plugs and noticed some were not working. I had him install all new glow plugs and this might have only marginally helped things…..marginally. Also, while hooking up the computer he noticed 3 out of the 8 injectors are operating at about 70% of what the others are at and 1 is at about 80%. Although he didn't notice any codes…..I'm hoping some injector cleaner can help out……fingers crossed! The truck runs great…lots of power and starts hot….but just seems to crank more before running. Maybe it does have a high pressure oil leak. Thanks again for the advice/input.

 

Your oil filter is critical in this issue. Some aftermarket filters are not quite proper height and allow your oil to drain back to sump when you stop at night. The truck won't start till filter housing fills up and then can pressurize system! Make sure you have a motorcraft filter and cap for filter, you may solve your problem really cheap!

 

That is correct,ONLY USE MOTORCRAFT OR FRAM OIL FILTERS, they are the exact same filter and the only ones that should be used, a lot of others, especially the ones with own cap hap been found to be too short

 

Thanks guys…..had a look at the oil filter today and it's a frame.

 

Make that a "Fram"

 

Well after a half shell FICM, 8 new glow plugs and an empty slush fund I finally have the problem solved! I was driving on the highway and went to step on the pedal and the engine just quit (no sputtering) and wouldn't start…..oh I was pissed off! After a 35km tow to a reliable shop I found out that my IPR appeared damaged and was changed….truck still didn't start . They found out that the HPOP had gone…..total bill was $3200. Then next morning I went to start the truck at minus 6 Celsius and she fired right up!!!!! A second or less of cranking!!!

The kicker is I just bought this truck in mid October and could have got a full 2 year warranty on the truck for $2000.00 for two years. Oh well you live and learn….I just hope the injectors hold up! A big thank you for everyone who took the time to read and respond to this thread. It's always nice learning from everyone else's issues and fixes. This problem has been a thorn in my backside for months…..now it's just a sore spot on my finances. Thanks!

 

Here Bill at Powerstrokehelp shows that Ford is the only one that has a patented membrane against water. Some say Racor are the same filter and of course International.


Here is a short Ford video (advertisement?)


http://www.strictlydiesel.com/Produc...erDocument.pdf

Oil Change info
http://www.powerstrokediesel.com/doc...ange_Guide.pdf

 

Was a new oil filter included in the work....and if it was, what brand of filter did they install?
Sorry to be suspicious...
I have an 06. It was built in 05, so, probably not too different than your build date.
From what I've read on the forums, 05-07 HPOP's hardly ever fail. The earlier models had a different HPOP and tend to fail more often.
I suspected my HPOP when I had long crank times (up to 5 seconds), but didn't change it because of information on the forums. This was over 40,000 miles ago. I was using NAPA gold oil filters and switched to Motorcraft about 50,000 miles ago. My long crank times were due to standpipes, dummy plugs or branch tube, because the problem went away when I replaced these.
I would also make sure the batteries are tested with a good load tester...these testers are pretty pricey, so not many home mechanics spend the money to get one. The way to test a battery is to place a large load on it for 15 seconds. It takes this long to reveal a weak battery. The voltage and cranking amps will fall off before 15 seconds.
I just replaced my batteries after having them tested at AutoZone. Any good parts house will have a good battery tester. They need it to prove to themselves whether a battery is really bad or just needs charging.