Have been avoiding it for sometime hoping it wasnt but i have been blowing cold air at idle for awhile now after egr delete and pushing a little bit of coolant but not puking. Now this wk i checked my degass bottle to find traces of oul in my coolant.
267k on truck arps at 55k at ford, safe to say i am in for gaskets and oil cooler?? I am in school this year so poor timing award goes to me. I might attempt this myself, my skills are ok just doing cab on how much for oil cooler ? Anything else i should while everything apart? Will b getting heads checked and planed
Also turbo is sticking again, so clean it again,
Replace thermostat
Flush heater core
Check waterpump
Anything else?
How much time am i looking at for this project and cost? No money for shop time
Thanks for advice guys!


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Oil in coolant is a ruptured oil cooler, not head gaskets. total job for oil cooler is probably going to be just over $300 for oil cooler and intake gaskets and other misc

 

So what is the small amount of coolant seepage and no hot air at idle? I was informed on psn that to hold me over fir awhile until i do it right and have coin i could re torque my arp's to 280ft lbs , could do that while in there??


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The oil can reach 75 PSI, and if you have oil in coolant then your degass bottle is going to be subjected to too much pessure causing it to puke.

 

I wouldn't torque the studs that high, they'll likely yield. Or do you have the old lube where they were still torquing to 245?

If you replace the oil cooler you should be replacing any rubber line in the coolant system now too, and flush the radiator out REALLY well.

 

Couldn't tell u if u had the old lube, i guess maybe check them to see if they are at 245lbs with torque wrench, then hopefully be ok for 6 months without heavy towing then do a cab on gasket job!
There is place in my town that does cooling systems only complete flush and pressure test with new coolant for 150$ pretty good i figure!


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I would think that no heat at idle would be a water pump problem if coolant leven is good.

 

Coolant gave been dropping a bit about 3 litres a month with daily driving i am going to check water pump, replace thermostat ( both original with 267k) check torque on arps and complete flush including heater core, it must be plugged up! And replace degass cap too!


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Bob, when the gaskets are blown and the cylinder pressures are constantly aerating the coolant system it's tough for it to get heat going, mine's doing the exact same thing right now. I am replacing the thermostat and waterpump as precautionary measures though, I'll see what the water pump looks like when I pull it. They suck in these trucks anyways, I've fought with poor coolant flow to my veggie tank since owning the truck. A new Alliant water pump with metal impeller blades is going in and I'm adding an in-line coolant pump back by the veggie tank to really get coolant flowing through there. We've also noticed clogged oil coolers will duplicate poor coolant flow too, not even to the point of picking it up on gauges, but to the point it wont let the veggie system stay running.

 

Very interesting! I am going to exhaust thr cheaper avenues first and gaskets last. If gaskets then truck is totally refreshed anyways i have seen plugged up heater core cleaned with CLR that fixed things!! Most said headgaskets right away! But i think i need everything no shsme in the truck its been good to me all along


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