Stack and Leveling Kit Questions
No, I wasnt going to do a muffler delete. I was just going to cut it off right in front of the muffler, at the hanger. Being directly under the cab, it would be loud as all get out.
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Also looking for the stock F350 rear blocks, if you guys could point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it.
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Also looking for the stock F350 rear blocks, if you guys could point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it.
Last edited by JBSedon; Dec 3, 2012 at 02:46 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
No, it wouldn't. It will be 10x louder behind the cab. I've run my truck with just basically a downpipe before, it was WAY quieter than my stacks are. You will simply not have any more in-cab noise than you will with stacks. Trust me, been there, done that.
The blocks are going to be on the forums bud, probably not here as we don't have a very good for sale section. Check out powerstrokearmy.com or powerstrokenation.com
The blocks are going to be on the forums bud, probably not here as we don't have a very good for sale section. Check out powerstrokearmy.com or powerstrokenation.com
What is the height difference between the F250 stock rear end and the front end after installing the 2.5 inch leveling kit? Do I have to switch to the F350 blocks or is there another way to level it?
Right now, a tape measure and a pair of floor jacks are your new best friends.
Put one floor jack under each side of the front axle, go up 2 1/2" (axle height, NOT under the tire height) with the axle straight. Presto! you just simulated a 2 1/2" front lift! Now, step back and look at the truck, it's either sitting level or it's not. If it's not, you have 2 options: 1. Figure out why and adjust the accordingly. 2. Avoid the entire see-saw thing and get a complete lift kit.
Because this is a coil sprung truck with trailing arms, your puck lift may induce negative camber. This mandates a trip to the local alignment shop to check and possibly bring the caster back to factory specs.
Put one floor jack under each side of the front axle, go up 2 1/2" (axle height, NOT under the tire height) with the axle straight. Presto! you just simulated a 2 1/2" front lift! Now, step back and look at the truck, it's either sitting level or it's not. If it's not, you have 2 options: 1. Figure out why and adjust the accordingly. 2. Avoid the entire see-saw thing and get a complete lift kit.
Because this is a coil sprung truck with trailing arms, your puck lift may induce negative camber. This mandates a trip to the local alignment shop to check and possibly bring the caster back to factory specs.
Reading other sites, guys are talking about whether they need flat blocks or the tapered blocks from the 350...whats that about? I am finding that the blocks seem to be extremely hard to find.
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I'm going to give that a whirl this weekend.
I also got a saaaweeeet hookup from a couple of trucker buddies today. One of them has a set of 6 inch stacks that are 43 inches. He offered them to me and no matter what I say, he won't take a dime for them. So I am going to cut them to size and weld reduction pieces to them for my truck. The other guy has a y-pipe for the bed that he was going to use on his Dodge. He decided to go with a single stack, so he sold it to me for $100. Cant beat that!! All said and done, I may end up with a couple hundred bucks in the system!
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Right now, a tape measure and a pair of floor jacks are your new best friends.
Put one floor jack under each side of the front axle, go up 2 1/2" (axle height, NOT under the tire height) with the axle straight. Presto! you just simulated a 2 1/2" front lift! Now, step back and look at the truck, it's either sitting level or it's not. If it's not, you have 2 options: 1. Figure out why and adjust the accordingly. 2. Avoid the entire see-saw thing and get a complete lift kit.
Because this is a coil sprung truck with trailing arms, your puck lift may induce negative camber. This mandates a trip to the local alignment shop to check and possibly bring the caster back to factory specs.
Put one floor jack under each side of the front axle, go up 2 1/2" (axle height, NOT under the tire height) with the axle straight. Presto! you just simulated a 2 1/2" front lift! Now, step back and look at the truck, it's either sitting level or it's not. If it's not, you have 2 options: 1. Figure out why and adjust the accordingly. 2. Avoid the entire see-saw thing and get a complete lift kit.
Because this is a coil sprung truck with trailing arms, your puck lift may induce negative camber. This mandates a trip to the local alignment shop to check and possibly bring the caster back to factory specs.
I also got a saaaweeeet hookup from a couple of trucker buddies today. One of them has a set of 6 inch stacks that are 43 inches. He offered them to me and no matter what I say, he won't take a dime for them. So I am going to cut them to size and weld reduction pieces to them for my truck. The other guy has a y-pipe for the bed that he was going to use on his Dodge. He decided to go with a single stack, so he sold it to me for $100. Cant beat that!! All said and done, I may end up with a couple hundred bucks in the system!
Last edited by JBSedon; Dec 4, 2012 at 03:45 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
As for the blocks... I remember reading into it when I did mine, and the different blocks came on different bed/cab configurations, it's basically to get the pinion angle correct. I remember I read about it, some guys said it made a difference, others didn't... I put flat blocks on my extended cab short box, which I would think if anything would need the tapered blocks... but I can't recall. I just put on whatever I could find, no issues here.



