2006 F250 King Ranch FX4 with 6.0L. Work truck pulling an enclosed 12 foot trailer. Truck wont start. Cranks but will not start. had mechanic put computer on it today and found out there is no icp pressure. Mechanic said he did not know where icp sensor (he called it a huie pump) was on this model diesel. I have looked all over web and think I found sensor on the right valve cover in the front right below the turbo intake pipe? Is this correct or is it behind the turbo on the back of the engine on the drivers side? Just bought truck in June and truck has run fine up to yesterday. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Only have 116k on truck. Truck is not abused as I am the only driver. No other error codes showed up as mechanic only mentioned the icp

 

The ICP sensor on your truck is located on the passenger side valve cover/ goes right into it/ right behind the glowplug module that sits on a bracket right over the valve cover almost below the alternator.
Does this happen when cold or only when hot?
A couple thing you can try that won't cost a penny
1- unplug the ICP sensor and see if it will start, if it does the the ICP sensor is bad
2-Remove the IPR valve and check the screen on it, if it is torn replace the screen, if it is clogged then clean it
If the ICP is good and the IPR is clean then you have a High Pressure oil leak and it takes about $160 in parts to take care of all the known problems when it comes to HPoil leaks.
The problem pieces are/1 - the dummy plugs in the oil rails that feed the injectors
2- the standpipes that feed the oil rails,, both of these have orings that can fail and the new ones have a teflon backer for the orings.
3-the STC fitting /snap to connect/ on the High pressure oil pump itself, they loosen up and are known to fail on almost all 05 and up trucks, the new ones are solid and haven't ever heard of one of the new ones failing.

 

already tried unplugging sensor and truck would still not start. Really about to pull my hair out due to it being sunday and i need truck for work tomorrow. Not sure of where the other areas are located that you talked about bob but would greately appreciate and directions to these areas

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Cold or hot truck wont start

 

The IPR valve is kinda below and behind tubo, yu can get to it by removing the air filter assembly to turbo, then unbolt the degas bottle and pop the 2 small lines off of it then pull it forward a couple inches then toward the drivers side/ just to get it out of the way.
Next unbolt the FICM which sits on top of the drivers side valve cover, undo the 3 connectors on bottom of FICM, jst pinch them near top and wiggle out, make sure you hear 2 clicks when you put them back in also. remove from front to back the reinstall from back to front.
After removing these 2 items you will be able to see the IPR, it is wrapped in a foil cover that just is velcroed on, it is right at the back of the intake manifold on drivers side and goes toward the center of motor. They make a special socket for it, it;s 35mm and has a cut in it to clear the electrical connector. Some guys make their own socket, some remove the turbo to get to it real easy, a couple of guys say that they cut down a 35mm wrench to like 6 inches and are able to get it . Iv'e seen the socket at NAPA but I don't think they even knew they had it.
dummy plugs 6.0 - Bing Images
Hear are some images of dummy plugs and the oil rail that the dummy plug goes in, I kind of think this is th issue but the IPR should be checked too.

 

so do you think the icp sensor is ok since i unplugged it and it still would not start? if so did the computer pick up the icp due to the other issues you mentioned?

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my other question is should i go ahead and upgrade the stc fitting while i am having these problems?

 

You should do the STC fitting, and the stand pipes/dummy plugs for sure, they are just potential issues later down the road. Honestly sounds like the high pressure oil pump is shot.

If the guy with the scanner knew anything about diesels, and specifically the 6.0 he could have easily told you where to look.

It's not common for the HPOP to go out on a later model 6.0 like yours either. I have in rare cases seen the STC fitting be bad and cause a no start hot and cold. Not common, but can happen.

Anyone who knows 6.0's and has a scanner could easily tell you where you need to be looking.

Start with pulling the IPR and see what it looks like. The ICP sensor is probably fine.

 

Mike, you want to tell him about the gas and rag trick to see if it will start, figuring once it stays running then the pump is OK.

 

thank you both for your help, i am just really not sure where to start. guess i am pulling turbo and putting updated stc pipe and dummy plugs for sure. really hope the hpop is not shot. have worked on many gas burners but this will be my first diesel repair. where would be the best place to get parts and should i invest in a scanner for myself

 

One thing we forgot to ask, when you are cranking it over does the oil pressure guage on the dash come up? it might take 10 seconds of cranking or so to see it move. also you will get a code for cam shaft position sensor and you can ignore that, happens all the time when you do alot of cranking and it doesn't start, just an FYi because alot of gas mechanics will see that and think that is the cause and it isn't.

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Tousley Ford Parts online, best prices around, ask for quicker shipping, if you need them quicker go to the local Ford dealer, should have these parts in stock if they do alot of work on trucks.
Part numbers you will need and Tousley prices, dealer will be a little more.
6E7Z-9A332-B--dummy plugs and standpipes kit $102
4C3Z-9B246-E-- new STC fitting, I want to say around $45
Once you have the turbo off it is just an engine, the biggest socket you will need is a 12mm, most of the work will be done with a 8mm and 10mm. You will need a torque wrench, only 10ft lbs for the oil rails. you will also need a 10mm and 12mm allen wrench, I bought a whole set at Advance Auto parts for around $20 and they fit on a socket wrench, They are Gear wrench brand. I will give a better writeup on turbo removal when you are ready, it will take you an hour or 2 the first time and after that you will be able to do it in a half hour. doing this yourself with a buddy should take about 8 hours total and cost you under $200 even if you have to buy a couple tools, alot better then paying a mechanic $2500

 

oil pressure gauge does not move at all. of course i have never paid it any attention while starting only after truck was running.