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Door Lock Actuator Repair

 
 
 
 
  #21  
Old 10-07-2009, 10:59 PM
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Hehe now I gots ta do the driver door
 
  #22  
Old 10-09-2009, 03:22 PM
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gotta tell my dad this ...... Im sick of rolling the window down
 
  #23  
Old 11-01-2009, 03:45 PM
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Hey folks,
I have replaced all of my wifes 2000 F250 PowerStroke door actuators with these;
DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR | AllElectronics.com
They are super powerful and have an easy mounting kit. Just clamp on to the exisiting door lock actuator rod and thats it. (well you do have to mount the actuator). At 6 bucks each you cant beat them. I just left the old actuators in place and let them pull and push them as well
 
  #24  
Old 01-07-2010, 11:35 AM
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Default door locks99 f350

my doors will un-lock buywill not lock. this happened at the same time on both doors. is it the actuators. What are the odds of this? both doors two seperate actuators at the same time?????
 
  #25  
Old 03-18-2010, 01:01 AM
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My actuators slowed considerably over the past 6 months or so. The passenger side went first then the drivers, they would work good one day and poorly the next. Went to the dealer today, $550 to R&R all four. The interweb is great, I just saved myself a little cash. Thanks for the info guys. I'll let you know how my repair project goes.
 
  #26  
Old 03-19-2010, 07:35 PM
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thanks... this was a big help
 
  #27  
Old 05-10-2010, 04:10 PM
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Default Door Lock Actuators Replacement

I took the advice above and went to this site: DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR | AllElectronics.com
These things were five and change each and they charge a flat rate shipping, no matter how much you buy. So, for twenty something I got all four lock actuators and just overrode the factory ones with the replacements. You need to be a bit mechanical to mount these effectively, but it's not rocket science. Be sure to check if they fit with the window in the up and down position. The outcome is fantastic. They are powerful, and way better than the worn out factory ones. Best thing is you don't have to be a contortionist trying to get the old ones out. Just cut the wires and wire up the new ones and they override the factory actuators. Thanks for posting this solution. It is great.
 
  #28  
Old 05-22-2010, 09:34 AM
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I was working out of town, wife called and said my F250 door locks were clicking, she said they were jumping up, unlock mode, time after time after time. I asked her to disconnect the batteries until I could get back home.

I found my spare keyfob transmitter in her purse, it was being pressed by something in that all in wonder carry all bag of a purse cause it did it when I came back home and reconnected the batteries. It happened when she gets out of her vehicle and goes by the truck, unlock, unlock, unlock, unlock.
Took the transmitter out of her pocketbook and it stopped unlocking.

Well needless to say the door lock actuators over time kept getting weaker and weaker, until they failed to unlock one by one. Being a former electrical line tech at a chassis up-fitter of conversion vans, found the best price deal on four actuators and replaced them. It's been 7 years since the loss of actuator function and repair completed, no more episodes of the wife's purse pressing the unlock button of the transmitter keyfob. (Took it out of her pockypurse)
 
  #29  
Old 06-08-2010, 12:01 AM
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Default By-Passing OE actuator

Originally Posted by johnfryiv View Post
I took the advice above and went to this site: DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR | AllElectronics.com
These things were five and change each and they charge a flat rate shipping, no matter how much you buy. So, for twenty something I got all four lock actuators and just overrode the factory ones with the replacements. You need to be a bit mechanical to mount these effectively, but it's not rocket science. Be sure to check if they fit with the window in the up and down position. The outcome is fantastic. They are powerful, and way better than the worn out factory ones. Best thing is you don't have to be a contortionist trying to get the old ones out. Just cut the wires and wire up the new ones and they override the factory actuators. Thanks for posting this solution. It is great.
Are there any more specifics on how to mount the "AllElctronics.com" actuator, I haven't torn into the project yet, but would like to have an idea what's in-store before I do. I have to replace/fix the passenger front door on my F-350. Any advice?
 
  #30  
Old 06-08-2010, 10:08 AM
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Arrow Reply to:By Passing EO Actuator

After reading all the threads and replacing two of my motors, I decided to replace the other two and took pictures and did a detailed pictorial report of my experience on the front driver door and listed it on eBay here: 99-03 Ford Super-Duty Door Lock Motor Replacement: eBay Motors (item 280515905436 end time Jun-09-10 12:47:21 PDT)

I haven't had a nibble on this auction for $24.99 for the report including a motor and S&H, so would be open to an offer through eBay. I have also taken pictures of the rear passenger side door and could do a similar report and also list it on eBay. I could also just sell you the report which would not involve S&H as I could eMail it as an attachment. Printer ink is a big part of the cost of selling hardcopy with pictures. Message me through eBay and we can come to some arrangement.

There were a couple questions as to why the factory motors seem to go out in multiples. My only speculation is that they've gotten abused and the resistors have burned out at the same time. I think what did mine is I put in an aftermarket tailgate lock which was sluggish from the installation and I had to push the lock button a lot of times to get the tailgate to work hence ruining all my factory motors. I'm going to replace the tailgate lock motor with the same one as on the doors.

These have only been in my truck for six months or so, so there's no telling the long term survival of these. It does seem Maserati uses these as a factory part. Maserati part# 323320195A Anybody able to verify that? They look sthe same.

I don't think the All Electronics actuators have a resistor, so if you have kids who play with the locks you might get a burn out. The factory resistor is to prevent burn-out if someone holds the lock button.

End result of my work was very satisfying.

One thing if you've gotten this far is I've done some University level teaching and from my experience, my report is probably too detailed with nearly 30 pictures plus narrative. That's why I split the front and rear doors into two reports. I just couodn't figure how to do it with less as you have to drill and bend sheet metal on the door metal.
 

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