What brand turbo is it? Holset, Garrett, Borg Warner, KKK, Precision, Schweitzer, Turbonetics. Most of the T-3-T-4 turbos Ive seen are mostly Chinese junk. If your positive its not the turbo is there oil in the manifolds?

 

so if i punch holes the turbo pretty much has to work or im screwed?

 

yep.

 

how would the oil get back into the intake if the cdr value is there?

 

the valve opens up pulling crankcase pressures into the intake. in your valley pan is a baffle to stop heavy oil from entering. but this baffle also limits oil returning from the turbo. by punching the holes in the baffle, oil can now flow freely back into the valley.

 

o okay. so is there a way to get oil to return faster without messing it up? and i dont get how the turbo i had on from the junkyard was bad and all the snap rings insinde holding the bearings were all missing and the bearings were shoved down and the exhaust snap ring which holds shaft in was also missing i dont see how that didnt leak oil. im guessing it didnt pump the oil like a new one does so when i put the new one in it pumped more oil and was building up so it had to go somewhere and went out the exhaust? cus it didnt start smoking til it ran a while and then the oil started spitting out when u would spool it up

 

turbo isnt pumping any oil. the metal line to the top side of the turbo is your oil feed line. that has engine oil pressure to it. the bottom drain off the turbo is just gravity drain. nothing really pushes it out of there. and you engine oil pressure shouid be max of 75 ish psi when cold. when warm it is only 40 psi on average.

 

but why would oil come out of exhaust thou? and i have a high pressure water line going to it because i broke the metal one maybe the oil line is to big and is pumping to much?

 

doesnt matter on size of line. if oil is coming out of the exhaust, the turbo is shot.

 

D.C., know where I can get a valley pan by chance if I do happen to need one?

Thanks,
Sandman