Ford 83-94 6.9 and 7.3L General Discussion of 83-94 6.9 and 7.3 Liter Ford Diesels

Adjusting the Fuel Injection Pump on a 6.9L & 7.3L Ford Diesel IDI

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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 10:31 PM
  #41  
4x4manonbroke's Avatar
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2 flats.... mine is 1.5 ..... recently turned back down to + .75-1 turn total... runs great and econemy is better too... at 4.49 a gallon
 
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 07:12 AM
  #42  
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black out effect, 2 turns. eventually it will be a white out effect from oil and collant everywhere, and then it is a pocket out effect to replace the engine.
 
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Old May 31, 2012 | 11:16 PM
  #43  
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Default F-bomb hellfire

Do yall think it would be a bad idea to put the f-bomb hellfire fuel additive in my 1992 7.3idi I have heard some good stuff about it but I don't know how it would do in my truck..?
 
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 09:24 AM
  #44  
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"Pocket out effect", nice Hadn't heard that one.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 09:09 PM
  #45  
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Man ! reality is sooo harsh...
 
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 10:42 PM
  #46  
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So i just bought a 91 f250 idi and the guy had it jerry rigged to start because the ignition is messed up you have to push on the rod that is coming through the steering column from the back of the ignition then theres also a switch that must be flipped that running to a single prong off the back of whatever part it is thats right in front of the air intake to the right of the throttle cable the wire runs to the positive terminal on the battery and im not sure what part this whole setup is replacing. please someone explain to me what they think and details on how to fix it/cost because im new to the mechanics of a diesel and dont know much, only the basics. Please HELP!
 
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Old Aug 22, 2012 | 12:36 PM
  #47  
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Pics would help. But anyway, it sounds like the key cylinder malfunctioned and the po had to rig a new on off switch to start the truck. The wire that you speak of that goes to the engine more than likely is the one wire needed to run the motor. The rod to start is fine as long as it holds up ( I've done it plenty of times in my chevys) I also did something similar in my acura. The key broke in the ignition, so I cut the wires and rewired it to toggle switches hidden under the dash, and a push button for the starter. Problem solved, and now I have push to start!! if it works, leave it till it breaks, cuz the po obviously did it for a reason.


Ps, next time, post a thread instead of thread jacking a sticky
 
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Old Aug 27, 2012 | 12:51 PM
  #48  
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Well, i found out what the part is thats riged that the 12v's off the switch are connected to, its the cold advance solenoid. Although i dont know what it does or if that can keep it from starting. once it starts it runs like a top. but, after i kill it, it wont start again for atleast a couple of hours. Do ineed a new C.A.S or is it something else like the glow plug selonoid? The plugs arent new but read correctly when tested. Thanks
 
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 12:36 AM
  #49  
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I have an 85 non turbo and I turned my pump all the way up till it won't go no more and I hot rod the **** out of it for the. Past year and have had no problems with it. Y is that?
 
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 01:10 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Daniel Tunstall
I have an 85 non turbo and I turned my pump all the way up till it won't go no more and I hot rod the **** out of it for the. Past year and have had no problems with it. Y is that?
God is kind to children and fools.
 
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