Okay well after getting the sticker shock of buying 8 new glow plugs at a grand total of $130 im wondering whats the easiest way to remove these things? As far as i know these are the original glow pugs in my truck at 181,000 miles This is on my 88 F250 by the way. Thanks Dave

 

I would advise ensuring the GP your removing has the piston at TDC......

The timing mark is found on a little plate that is on the front of the engine on the passenger side. The plate is mounted so it is very close to the main pulley on the lower front of the engine which is mounted on the vibration damper. On the side of the vibration damper, is a line, which when lined up with the line marked (O) on the plate, tells you that the #1 piston is at TDC(top dead center) You can see the line on the damper, and it points to the line on the plate with the (barely visible)O mark on it.You'll have to find a way to turn your engine over by hand (Crank/harmonic balancer bolt). Make sure you remove the power wire to the injection pump(so the engine won't start)and then rotate the engine until you can line up the marks.

The engine rotates in a clockwise direction as seen from the front of the truck, and for every 1/4 turn of the engine(crank) each next piston will arrive at TDC. So, When the line on the vibration damper is at the 2 oclock position, cylinders 2 and 5 will be at TDC. When the mark is at the 5 oclock position, cylinders 7 and 6 will be at TDC, 8 oclock has cylinders 3 and 8 at TDC, and back to 11oclock, 1 and 4 will be at TDC.

Cylinder numbers are assigned 1,3,5,7 on the right (passenger USA) bank from front of truck to back, and 2,4,6,8 on the driver's side (USA), front to back. Firing order is 1,2,7,3,4,5,6,8.



You can get the back glow plugs out using a 1/4 inch drive socket, it helps to remove the injector lines and vibration clip to give yourself some room ,but you do not need to remove the turbo.

This is what I recommend as a procedure especially for Autolite GP removal....remove air cleaner if IDI.

To remove/replace gp's get a 3/8" 6 point deep socket and suitable ratchet, 8" piece of gas line hose that will fit on top of gp. Remove gp electrical caps blow or brush clean each area around gp's, loosen gp with socket until it turns freely (1-2 turns) remove socket and push hose on top, turn out gp. For the one under the injector lines on drivers side you can use a universal joint (hard) or a 3/8 box end wrench then the hose as usual (do not force or bend lines) Test GP's and check tips.
If you have it put (small amount) anti seize on threads of new gp, you can use hose to start plugs then finish with ratchet to 12 ft/lbs or 1/12th of a turn after bottoming( this is not much torque at all)
If I were you, I would remove all gp's to see what kind they are, if they are not "BERU/Motorcraft" pitch them and buy all 8 new, if they are Beru and test good re install. If some are bad get 8 new and save old ones that are good for backups.
NOTE***If any GP's are hard to remove from hole using the hose ...."STOP" call for assistance and wait for instructions.... DO NOT force the GP to turn out as tips can break off..
PS A big old blanket over the rad helps in laying on the engine.

 

Thanks dieselcrawler i went ahead and spent the extra cash and bought motorcraft beru glow plugs its not a adventure i wanna take on all the time. I talked to the previous owner he bought it brand new and everything is original on this truck glow plugs, clutch. It was a rarely used farm truck mainly to pull wagons and trailers. So what ever they came with factory is what was is in it.

 

the way i said is the safe way, that way if the tips do snap off, they cant drop into the cyl cause pistion is at tdc. just cheap insurance so u dont have to pull head.

 

Well the old ones came out with out any problems. Turned out really easy and the new ones went in smooth too. Thanks for the help. Thanks Dave

 

not a problem.

 

Thoughts on just taking the truck to the carwash and hosing the engine off the day before?

 

Only if you live real close to the car wash. If you go blasting cold water on an engine thats reached operating temperature, you could end up with a new lawn ornament

 

DO NOT WASH A HOT ENGINE! it will warp the injection pump causing no run.

 

I always thought it was okay, so long as the engine wasn't really hot; and that you were fine as long as you kept the engine running.