detroit locker ?
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maby i should of made a list of already done sory . new bb injectors not tested but new new glow plugs factory turbo ?? still not sure on if it is working right but it dose spool have the cold air setup with k\n . two new batts a alt a starter all in about 2 months . if i do the cam shouldnt i just rebuild the entire motor ? or just stick the cam in it .
#4
You could go either way, personally I would just tear it down to put in the cam, hone the cylinders if needed, check my bearings, new headgasket, port and polish heads also port the intake, get the valve seats ground, and stud the head. All of which I would never have a shop do anymore, I have to tools needed though. Sent of heads for a valve job, comes back with one valve that isn't mine and one that was 4 chunks missing. definitely would stud the heads though
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Thanks D .... I needed that ... ..
these engines are bomb proof ... go by the book and you will do just fine ... its much easier with the engine out of the truck as "D" has pointed out .... i build everything ... ricers,detroits,cat...etc .....
they are all the same you just need to follow the instructions ... follow the torque sequences and have a real good torque wrench ... no harbor freight shi& tools .. its worth the peace of mind to have a Snao-On ... it will save you more money than you spend... even at 400 $ ... i have made prolly 30K with it
these engines are bomb proof ... go by the book and you will do just fine ... its much easier with the engine out of the truck as "D" has pointed out .... i build everything ... ricers,detroits,cat...etc .....
they are all the same you just need to follow the instructions ... follow the torque sequences and have a real good torque wrench ... no harbor freight shi& tools .. its worth the peace of mind to have a Snao-On ... it will save you more money than you spend... even at 400 $ ... i have made prolly 30K with it
#10
Thanks D .... I needed that ... ..
these engines are bomb proof ... go by the book and you will do just fine ... its much easier with the engine out of the truck as "D" has pointed out .... i build everything ... ricers,detroits,cat...etc .....
they are all the same you just need to follow the instructions ... follow the torque sequences and have a real good torque wrench ... no harbor freight shi& tools .. its worth the peace of mind to have a Snao-On ... it will save you more money than you spend... even at 400 $ ... i have made prolly 30K with it
these engines are bomb proof ... go by the book and you will do just fine ... its much easier with the engine out of the truck as "D" has pointed out .... i build everything ... ricers,detroits,cat...etc .....
they are all the same you just need to follow the instructions ... follow the torque sequences and have a real good torque wrench ... no harbor freight shi& tools .. its worth the peace of mind to have a Snao-On ... it will save you more money than you spend... even at 400 $ ... i have made prolly 30K with it
But just like 4x4 said, torque is correctly and in the right sequence and you will be good...Just remember to double check as some manuals get them wrong......currently building up a 302 in my garage, the ford manual called for 45 ft/lbs on the connecting rod stud, I torqued it and it snapped. Later looked in my other manual, and it was supposed to be 23 ft/lbs, my book only had the 302 boss, so just be sure to research lmao
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