1990 7.3l IDI long cranking
#21
10-01-2013, 08:15 PM
Diesel Bomber
You would want a P-pump 12v ... not a VE ... much easier to tune and make power with ... and that IDI would go awesome in Bronko's ... 
test to make sure your getting 12V+ @ glow plugs in the harness .... also , pull the lift pump and put in a Holley "RED" pump, its set about 7 psi and will flow enough to more than support the IDI....
test to make sure your getting 12V+ @ glow plugs in the harness .... also , pull the lift pump and put in a Holley "RED" pump, its set about 7 psi and will flow enough to more than support the IDI....
#22
10-01-2013, 08:30 PM
The 302 currently in the bronco has been its last piece of road 
, but sounds amazing.
Last I checked the solenoid was getting 12v but the plugs them selves were getting 10.3-10.8 at their connectors
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If I can find a 12 valve in a junkyard I might just do it, 300 for a full motor and 200 for for the tranny, can't go wrong
, but sounds amazing. Last I checked the solenoid was getting 12v but the plugs them selves were getting 10.3-10.8 at their connectors
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If I can find a 12 valve in a junkyard I might just do it, 300 for a full motor and 200 for for the tranny, can't go wrong
Last edited by Dortiz; 10-01-2013 at 08:30 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#23
10-01-2013, 08:34 PM
Diesel Bomber
Ok, sounds like your fuel issue is gonna be between tank, and water/fuel seperator.. I replaced all of my lines from tank to switch and from switch to new Bio-fuel filter (5 Micron) .... deleted the fuel water seperator all together... hopefully i dont end up wit a bunch of water in my fuel ... i usually only get fuel at BIG fuel stops .... usually safer
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keep ur eye on Ebay for the 12V .. and craigslist .... good luck
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keep ur eye on Ebay for the 12V .. and craigslist .... good luck
Last edited by 4x4manonbroke; 10-01-2013 at 08:34 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#25
10-01-2013, 08:50 PM
Diesel Bomber
NOPE.... i have seen water go right through those damn filters either way .... better off getting a Bio- filter ... mine is just layin right next to my pass. side battery ... with all new fuel lines .... I used Gates Bio-guard 3/8" fuel line ... damn thing ran so much better ... now going to install the Holley Red pump and that will do away with the POS manual pump... gonna hack off the arm and just use it as a plug for the block ....LOL
#26
10-01-2013, 09:07 PM
That seems like it may be the way to go for my problem. Think you could list all the mods you did to your fuel system and what I would need to accomplish it? Also with cutting off the arm; that's a pretty creative way to make a block off plate inexpensive also
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needless to say I would like to getting this bad boy up and running quickly as possible being a daily driver. I've had to miss two days of my college class (being in high school and already taking heavy equipment and diesel repair at the college out here) my instructor is getting a little upset
inexpensive also---AutoMerged DoublePost---
needless to say I would like to getting this bad boy up and running quickly as possible being a daily driver. I've had to miss two days of my college class (being in high school and already taking heavy equipment and diesel repair at the college out here
) my instructor is getting a little upset
Last edited by Dortiz; 10-01-2013 at 09:07 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#28
10-02-2013, 02:42 PM
Now should I do that with by-passing the lift pump or run them together?
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well, I just took a more thorough look at the ip and the connections near it. And wouldn't you know it....my cold timing advance wasn't event connected
Plugged her in and fired right up . I would still like to do something along the lines of what you have done, with replacing lines and I'm going to get rid of the mechanical pump
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well, I just took a more thorough look at the ip and the connections near it. And wouldn't you know it....my cold timing advance wasn't event connected
Plugged her in and fired right up . I would still like to do something along the lines of what you have done, with replacing lines and I'm going to get rid of the mechanical pump
Last edited by Dortiz; 10-02-2013 at 02:42 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#29
10-27-2023, 02:35 AM
In my professional opinion, weather it be a 6.9 7.3 6.0 or a 6.4 glow plugs
Ill have to try this on mine. Does the same thing but my GP don't come on at all, need to bypass it on my '93 7.3. Going to hook up a switch, but the electrical smell could also have been the cable going to the starter. I used to crank until it fired up but one time my starter actually caught fire, so now I do it in short bursts, about an 8 count cranking and 3-4count resting. Takes a few cycles of this for me to get my truck started. Come winter it gets to be pretty hard to get her going, about7-10 cycles of my start procedure. 
In my professional opinion harness as well as glow plug location have always been an issue with ford's. I would start by chasing power in to the glow plug loosing power from there on unless newer than o believe late 03 thwre in a continuios circuit so when one dies the rest no longer recieve power. If they all have power and properly function the early 7.3 and 6.9 i believ have a rubber return line si.ilar to the gm 6.2 or 6.5 and crack and allow air to bleed in causing a similar issue
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