New to diesels I'd like to know what to expect when I'm towing with my 2000 Dodge/Cummins.

I tow an all-steel 22 foot tilt bed my tack runs 200-300 rpm's higher than when with no trailer. If the trans is constantly looking for a lower gear I'll take it out of overdrive, but on flat ground I leave it in the 'big hole' and go down the road.

The truck has 3.54's in it, with a 47RE trans.

Is this rpm shift being done by the converter going in and out of lockup, or by it going in and out of overdrive and is it OK for the trans to do this or is there something wrong with it - like maybe the converter?

NOTE: When I'm towing I'll put another 20-40 hp in the truck with my Edge programmer, which does seem to help things.

I wanted to buy a 6-speed truck, but got a real deal on this one so I'm living with it!

 

Hey rodbuilder, The reason you are are having lock and unlock up problems is because 2nd gen auto trucks have a problem wtih the lock up circuit. which can be fixed, Bd diesel sell a APPs noise filter for $25.00 it helps and is very easy to install!. The other fix that my mechanic did to my truck, will cost nothing to do it yourself, and is probably the best mod for auto in my opinion with lock up problems. I even have a thread on here about it. It entails removing the black and white stripped wire from a large wire loom in front of the engine. just follow this wire from the passagner side battery to the alternator it will go into this large wire loom in front of the motor and will end up being tied into 3 16 gauge black with white striped wires at the end. when you get it separated wire tie it to the top radiator hose away from the large wire loom and over top of the alternator. The reason for this is, the large wire loom is postive and that creates noise in the lock up circuit. My truck is completely awesome now! AMAZING.

 

So you're saying what - to cut the wires and tie them off?

 

I think he's just saying reroute it over top of the radiator hose and not where it is now.

 

NO! DO NOT CUT. the wires! Just follow the black and white stripped wire on the passenger side(NEG) battery it goes to the alternator and into a large wire loom. Remove the entire wire from the large wire loom in front the motor its just blow the valve cover. ZIP TIE it away from this loom, mine is zip tied to the top radiator hose and over top of the alternator. When i say it goes to the alternator, it simply runs in that direction but is not hooked to the alternaltor, you will find the end of this big wire loom on top of the alternaor!. you are simply removing this wire from a loom and tie it away from it. HINT: its the reason the lock up circuit has noise and lock up problems. ythis large loom has postive + wire in it, and the wire you are removing is negative -. I hope this helps.

 

It would appear that the automakers don't even take the time to drive their own products with all the stupid problems we have with cars and trucks.

Thanks for the comeback. I just ordered that wire from BD and will get it put on as soon as is come in.

Also - what do you know about this 'lockup' crap? Why don't they builders make a converter without that goofy lockup thing? When we had the old turbo 4oo in our cars they NEVER had any converter problems.

Wouldn't a non-lockup be better if we just used a higher geared rear end in our trucks? If we didn't HAVE a lockup it couldn't go bad!!! No lockup + higher ratio = same speed at the same rpm. Has anyone at least TRIED that?

It would seem that the clutch in the new-style converters is nothing but a problem looking for a place to happen?

 

I Know what you mine! The stuff that i have had to upgrade on this truck. another good upgrade to do on 2nd gen trucks is to take the amp load off the head light switch. Just order a 29.00 dollar or so, upgrade relay wire harness from LMC truck. it takes the load off the head light switch and just uses the switch to make the relays so the load is pulled through these new relays and off the battery. NOT through the switch. The way it should have been from the factory! its really easy. you might need to extend the wire on the new harness about 18 in. or so, i did to make it neat! i did noticed a differece in the amount of light on the road too. I have had friends that had their switch melt on them at night. the harness comes with high and low beam relays and the head light connectors. always hope this helps. hopthe lock up issue is fixed. i also have the bd APPS noise harness along with the rewire fix i mentioned. night and day difference!!!!!!!

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I don't know that much about it. though I do know that your truck will run cooler when the convertor is locked. I had a upgraded rebuild and a tripple disc convertor installed. and you defiantly know when it locks! It kicks you in the a$$. basicly. I have also noticed cooler temps on my temp gauge and better milege, because of the trip. disc. its nice.

 

the noise isolator is a good fix. fixes some crazy problems.

 

FYI,This post isnot really related to his specific problem,I just installed an ATS Copilot on my 01 2500. IT works AWSOME!! I have 4.10 gears so driving on my 35 mph 1500-1600 rpm. Now 1050-1150 rpms. Iset it to 25mph,drive down the road the green light comes on,indicating lockup,let off thethrottle ease back on I'm locked & overdrive,it also holds it in lockup untill you drop speed to the setting,very nice hold back versus the free wheel,nice for going down hill. There is also option to switch on an exhaust brake. I drove the truck with my 830lb western contractor grade plow,& 800lb in the box,went down the road great!!I mostly drive this thing like a car,so I was looking for fuel economy,which is definitly improved. I plowedmy 60 mi plow route yesterday,adding only 2in of snow pretty sure close to 20 mi per gallon! a far cryfrom my 1995 2500 gasser 6-7 mi per gallon. Neat Product!

 

I just can't understand what this stupid "lockup" thing is all about anyway. The purpose of a converter is to put a fluid coupling in between the engine and trans and THEN some bonehead came along with this lockup crap!

Just for conversation - what would happen if we took, say a 727 Torqueflite converter (IF it would fit?) and put it in our trucks? Screw the lockup and all the blasted problems iit causes.

What would happen then and why do we need the lockup clutch in the 1st place? Has anyone ever tried this?

We did without these things in the 60's and 70's and had some of the toughest trannys out there and now they're all junk except maybe for the Allison, so why not reverse this "technology" a bit and have better for less?

I hate being a follower!!!