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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 05:37 AM
  #11  
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do a search and you fill find the budget disk brake kit i posted up on here somewhere, its for a dana 70......wont work on a dually though.....
 
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Old May 12, 2008 | 01:07 AM
  #12  
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DIY4X: Catering to those who enjoy doing it themselves.
 
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Old May 12, 2008 | 09:43 AM
  #13  
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Great find there Jesse...
 
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Old May 12, 2008 | 12:32 PM
  #14  
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You could always just go with the bigger GMC 21mm drum brake actuators, they make a pretty good difference, and at lest than $50 for parts your spending a lot less money.
 
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Old May 12, 2008 | 04:12 PM
  #15  
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REAL good find Jesse! Wonder how close my D80 is to the D70HD for purposes of this conversion?


EDIT:

After closer inspection... how tha heck does that work? It looks like the bracket for the caliper is the same pice that the wheel studs would go through!?!?! It would spin with the wheel... thereby ripping the caliper loose from the lines.... and causing a wicked vibration... am I missing something?
 

Last edited by AndyMan; May 12, 2008 at 04:18 PM.
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Old May 12, 2008 | 04:23 PM
  #16  
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Uh, I believe the bracket that holds the caliper welds to the diff and your wheel studs are pressed through the hub and into the rotor.
 

Last edited by Dr. Evil; May 12, 2008 at 04:32 PM.
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Old May 12, 2008 | 04:27 PM
  #17  
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yeah, that sounds simple, but in the pic on their website, the bracket seems to be a cnc'd piece that both holds the caliper AND has holes for wheel studs.

http://www.diy4x.com/images/d70discconversion.jpg
 
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Old May 12, 2008 | 04:36 PM
  #18  
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no that bolts to the housing. pull the axles, then pull the bolts out of the "hub" that screws into the axle tubes. then bolt that in there.....

or maybe i'm thinking too hard.....
 
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Old May 12, 2008 | 06:57 PM
  #19  
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That makes more sense I reckon. It has 8 holes in it, and I was just trying to justify all those holes.
 
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Old May 13, 2008 | 08:38 AM
  #20  
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All the holes are to allow you to clock the caliper wherever you need it. And it doesn't bolt to the studs, it bolts the the hub flange on the end of the axle. They are a pretty simple install, I've done them in less than an hour per side once you get the hang of it. And if you decide to do the conversion, clock the calipers towards the front of the vehicle, as far forward as possible, this helps with braking as the braking force will try to push the caliper (and the axle assembly its bolted to) down, rather than up in the rear. I never believed it would make a difference, but when we tested it, we all noticed the ABS came on later, and stopping distances were different in favor of the forwards calipers by about 10-15 feet, go figure.
 
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