Just wondering what might be keeping my truck from shifting into O/D.0123 and 1693 codes

 

Heres our Codes list

https://www.dieselbombers.com/codes.php

And it sounds like you need to reset your apps to see if it helps



Unhook batterys for an hour then rehook ,, turn key on DO NOT START , press accel to the floor real slow and let up real slow do this 3 times , then start it up

If that Helps but only for a little bit then do this

This is different than resetting it. I did it to mine today and it made a nice difference. Boost comes up faster and smoke is down. You have to measure the voltage that the APPS is putting out then compare that to the voltage that it's supposed to be set at. For example. My apps was putting out .450 volts and it was supposed to be putting out .584 volts. I went and adjusted it and now I'm putting out .580 volts. It's not a major difference but it is nice. I've only put maybe 5 miles on it so far but come wednesday I'll be doing 500 miles a week so I'll give yall a better idea on how it drives.

Instructions:

Tools: Digital Volt Meter, T-20 Torx bit, #1 phillips, 10mm socket

With the key on, engine off you need to probe the APPS wire to see where the voltage is currently set at.
The best location to probe the wire is on the PCM (Power Control Module) which is located on the passenger firewall behind the air intake.
You want the C1 connector, this is the connector closest to the engine
You want the orange wire with a dark blue tracer which is pin #23
Voltage should be somewhere around 0.5 volts,
At this point the voltage reading does not matter, it just has to be accurately written down for later reference
TURN THE IGNITION OFF ON THE TRUCK

Remove the black plastic cover off of your APPS. There are two plastic screws. One on the top and one on the front facing the radiator. It takes a little prying to pull it off.

Undo the 6-10mm bolts that hold the bracketru in place but DO NOT REMOVE THE CABLES!!

You will notice the APPS is on the back of the bracketry that you just removed, it is held in place by 2-T20 torx bit screws. These screws have a little bit of locktite on them so make sure you have a good socket and gently give a little tap with a hammer before attempting to loosen. Be very careful because these screws strip VERY easily and you only get one shot at them (VERY VERY VERY IMPORTANT; They are VERY tight).

On the APPS you will find a white tag that gives you the information on what the APPS voltage should be.
After loosening the screws (do not remove) you can rotate the APPS clockwise or counter clockwise to get the adjustment (towards the front of the truck increases voltage and towards the rear of the truck decreases voltage)
The reading you took at the beginning of the process on pin #23 should match the white tag on your APPS. If it doesn't the adjust accordingly.

 

I guess maybe this is a short story but here goes.....truck stopped charging late Jan,took to a shop and was told voltage regulator was bad after they tested bats and alternator.Bought new ECM programmed to my VIN.I bought Quad adrenaline and installed in Feb.For my birthday early March I got the same problem and sent ECM back where it was tested and told all was good with it.I pulled the alt and tested,bad, so had it rebuilt.Put it all back together and went for a drive.Charging was good but noticed door locks didn't work when I reached speed where they normally lock.Got to highway speed and trans wouldn't shift above 3rd gear.Drove a little while in case it was cold and no shift.Cruise was not working either.Called ECM company to see if programming may have been interrupted when it was bench tested and was told programming should be good.I pulled the adrenaline off to see if it would be any different and shifting was same.I have tried the APPS reset a few times with no luck.I am trying to avoid the 40 mile drive to the Dodge dealership and would hate to pay the shop rate and still not have an answer.

 

Has the new ECM ever worked?

 

it worked good for 6 wks

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Does it sound to anyone like I need the ECM flashed again?

 

I calibrated the APPS yesterday following the instructions provided by DieselMinded(thank you) but am still having the same problem. I was going over a tranny manual that mentions 5 things that control the O/D and converter lock up functions,these being the coolant temp sensor(gauge working in cab),engine RPM sensor(tach working),vehicle speed sensor(speedo working),TPS,and MAP sensor.I know that dash guages functioning doesn't necessarily mean things are good with these,but am willing to give them the benefit of the doubt.I was able to adjust the APPS and am hoping that this means it is still functioning correctly.The only thing I see left is the MAP sensor....or maybe ?????

 

Was checking all the fuses and decided to drive...just hoping.I noticed that my speedometer is sluggish.So to date...No O/D,no rolling door locks,sluggish speedometer.

 

Went to Dodge today,mechanic said PCM is no good and that all those issues come from the same area or something.Just replaced it in Feb 08.He said that P0123 was an indicator and that the signal went to plug going to PCM and no further.Maybe PCM will make a good flat beer stand.

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I misquoted when I said ECM,he explained ECM is cummins unit on engine block and PCM is on firewall.