Well, my 98.5 steal didn't last long. The dealer is suing me for breach of contract, and while I would win hands down, the engine is having some problems already, like hard starts, has a couple of codes that could be VP44, so I am going to let them have it back as is. What is the difference (BOMBing) between 98 12 valve and 98 24 valve? Which is cheapest, and easiest, and which will last longest? I only know about the Common Rails, nothing about the rest of 'em. I have found a dealer near me that has 10 or 12 that are all under $10,000 with 24 month unlimited mile warranties ($100 deductible, not that warranty matters to me).
Thanks guys,
Ryan

 

the 12 valve is cheaper to bomb and more reliable. I like my 24 valve for the power when needed control. I like being able to turn it up and down at the push of a button.

 

12V is cheaper and easier. BUT, you lose the advantage of the adjust on the fly power. So if you turn it up you always have smoke and extra heat, can't just turn it down and keep drivin.

 

24V is more Plug and Play friendly over 12V...

Just plug in your enhancement and never bother again... Yes they do cost more but adjustablitiy is great when road conditons change. Like for example head to the mountain and the roads get icy... Click of a button and I can turn down my power...

But a 12V you got to break out the tool box and pull half the pump apart and re-tune it. Then the 12V has static timing. Compared to 24V dynamic timing that can once again be adjusted by a push of a button...

If I want to upgrade.. Just unplugg and plug in you upgrade or stack and double up on power. (TST and Smarty Stack)

I will admit 12V are rather cheap to upgrade but limited for adjustability...

 

Depends what you are looking for I guess. I love my 24V when it runs (that's not an engine problem though) it's electrical which I'm afraid effects all dodges.

 

ive got to say i would never own anything else but a 12v the upgrades are cheeap with not alot to do and if its taken care of then it will last along time. like everyone else is saying it oes suck not being able to turn the power and smoke levels down at the flip of a switch but i could care less

 

my family has a few of every generation ram...I really liked my 12v p-pump; I'd rather have the 12v over the 24v; or a p-pumped 24v. and unless you go crazy on it, the 12v is completely driveable turned up, it's relatively cheaper to turn up and they're very, very reliable. plus, when you get to the point of enough fuel that it's smoking too much for street use, you can solve that 'problem' with compound hairdryers!

the options that the 24v pump give for on the fly adjustable bomb tweaks are great; the variable of is the current pump going to last closer to 500 miles or 50k miles doesn't sit so well with me...

 

You could put a valet switch on a 12 valve. For drivers who dont need 500 rwhp