Note: Trac Bar conversion alone did not 100% eliminate it (80% yes)... Tie Rod rebuild finally eliminated 100% and stiffened the front end up as tight as a new truck. I also had two completely shot Steering Dampners. (Notice the stock one is gone - only a bolt remains - I have an OEM replacement ordered).

Trac Bar:
I converted the Trac Bar with the SSI bracket and a $75 used 04 Trac Bar from the salvage yard. I replaced the Bushings with Lukes Link Replacement Bushings - installed the DSS Steering Stabilizer kit and its all tight now like my '03 after the sequential Tie Rod Rebuild.
I thought my Trac Bar bushings were good until I pressed them out and they crumbled like dry cake!... Thanks for the good advice from the guys at Lukes Link... you were right - looks can be decieving.

Tie Rod Ends:
Replaced adjustable Tie Rod Ends with Moog (2ea) and the Tie Rods themselves I did the Lukes Link replacement (2ea)... Very pleased with the end result. A very tight ball joint with no STEERING TEST play! Just a grinder and 13mm Allen Head on a torque wrench and your done! Oh - and install the Grease zert. USE ANTISIEZE LIKE THEY SUGGEST... (Ooops).

I have painted all worked parts a Hammered Silver Metallic to show progress... please see att'd photo...

Here is a before and after... just grind of the back side and it hammers right out in the vise. Note: I did have to grind an additional 1/16" off the topside to get the Lukes Link to slip on. Either side really but I had more metal up top to work with.


Do yourself a favor and buy a good spud wrench for working the front end components. Beats having to wiggle the wheels and loosing your alignment... ALSO A MUST - A 14" or so Pickle Fork (Prong) to hammer out the Ball Joints... Be patient - they will pop loose. Every strike with a 2lb / 14" handle sledge counts...


This is how I did the Kotter Pins w/ the Grease zert... this way it won't interfere with greasing.


Silver and Shiny parts... I just degrease them, wash, sand down, wipe down with thinner and paint.


On my 04 Trac Bar conversion this is the original bushing after pressing out the center - I came back with a metal blade saws-all and cut the pressed in sleeve on opposite sides and then it just taps right out! Dont use a plug of some sort like a socket to press it all out - just press out the center metal sleeve for the bolt and the rubber can be cut through with a saws all into the outer sleeve. I tried pressing the whole thing at once and broke my press.



A bit blurry but you can see the new LUKES LINK Bushings go right in with a little tapping from a Rubber Malet... Line it up with a spud wrench if you have one. Or screw driver...


Quick Under the Hood Shot...

 

Great write-up and cool pics!!!

 

Very Nice Great job on the write up and pics. This should definitely help out some others

 

Glad you got it fixed - good pics - very nice!! The under side of your truck is very clean, looks good! Wish mine would have been that clean when I put my lift on - would have been a lot less dirt in the eyes! Great write up!!

 

Thanks... I need to paint my undercarriage and other parts black. I didn't realize how much rust I had going for me...

 

My wobble is 100 times better after I replaced my Ball Joints. Going to put in the Lukes Link on my Trac Bar this week.


Nice Write-up

 

Looks good.

 

looks great. thanks for the info. sucks you had to spend all that money but you should be good for a while. keep and eye on those clamps that fasten the stabilizer to the draglink.
mine have loosened in the past.

 

In lots of cases the tires are a contributing factor to Death Wobble as well. Seen guys get new tires and eliminate the wobble.

 

i have a set of tires that cause death wobble i was told it was from running d rated tires on the front. replaced them with E and much better but i still need passenger side ball joints so its not all gone.