Advice On What To Do
#11
I'd start with the simple stuff first - dump the crank case and build your own vent line back to the block (freezer plug). Next, pull the covers and head and check for valve lash. Check turbo boost pressures with a gizmo like that has been posted on here (Whit knows where it is) and then check your fuel delivery system.
If the truck ran when you bought it and it doesn't run now it isn't likely as bad as you think it is. Just because it has a 53 block doesn't mean it is cracked - just means it could be cracked. If you ran it and then checked your fluids and had milky white in the oil or lots of shitty black in the coolant then you would know for sure. If the truck has never been used in a high HP situation I would not even worry about that.
So, where does that leave you, well, with help from us and some elbow grease a truck that will most certainly run for under $4k. That dealer is trying to screw you over is what I think.
What you will need if you don't have it:
Battery charger (trickle charger)
Gauges
Code reader or smarty box
A decent set of wrenches - nothing fancy here just what you need to get the job done.
A engine lift of some sort to assist in removing the head
A torque wrench - a good one.
A shop manual from Dodge (1200 page version)
New fluids, gaskets and filters
My guess is that it will start after 30 hours of do-it-yourself.
If the truck ran when you bought it and it doesn't run now it isn't likely as bad as you think it is. Just because it has a 53 block doesn't mean it is cracked - just means it could be cracked. If you ran it and then checked your fluids and had milky white in the oil or lots of shitty black in the coolant then you would know for sure. If the truck has never been used in a high HP situation I would not even worry about that.
So, where does that leave you, well, with help from us and some elbow grease a truck that will most certainly run for under $4k. That dealer is trying to screw you over is what I think.
What you will need if you don't have it:
Battery charger (trickle charger)
Gauges
Code reader or smarty box
A decent set of wrenches - nothing fancy here just what you need to get the job done.
A engine lift of some sort to assist in removing the head
A torque wrench - a good one.
A shop manual from Dodge (1200 page version)
New fluids, gaskets and filters
My guess is that it will start after 30 hours of do-it-yourself.
#12
for one i know it has a cracked block. most of the code 53 blocks craked on the outside thin wall on passenger side.
thanks whit. ill see if i can figure it out.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
and for a more detailed version of whats wrong and where im at look at post A STORY OF A DIP **** THAT BOUGHT A TRUCK ONLINE
thanks whit. ill see if i can figure it out.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
and for a more detailed version of whats wrong and where im at look at post A STORY OF A DIP **** THAT BOUGHT A TRUCK ONLINE
Last edited by biged681985; 06-07-2008 at 09:17 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#13
So you've seen the crack in the block?
Did it run okay when you bought it?
My old engine had some blowby and ran great,too bad for me my block cracked...
I doubt ALOT that you've got such low compression that it won't run,I think something else is the matter.
Did it run okay when you bought it?
My old engine had some blowby and ran great,too bad for me my block cracked...
I doubt ALOT that you've got such low compression that it won't run,I think something else is the matter.
#14
yes ive seen it and also welded it some more.
it ran like a top untill the exhaust manifold cracked, but even then it ran good just smoked a bit more
i doubt it has low compression as good as it ran before. its just one of those things that you just cant figure out what the hell is wrong with the bastard.
it ran like a top untill the exhaust manifold cracked, but even then it ran good just smoked a bit more
i doubt it has low compression as good as it ran before. its just one of those things that you just cant figure out what the hell is wrong with the bastard.
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