I'm not quite clear on how that is any different than any other throttle on a gas or diesel engine in any other vehicle. If you put your foot halfway to the floor the engine is going to spin up until it hits a specific RPMs (as determined by the rate of fuel flow) and it will do it as quickly as it can. Just how soon it gets there (assuming the load isnt so large that it prevents it getting there at all) is a function of the load its trying to accelerate.

That's almost exactly the HP/TQ numbers I'm getting out of the NA 4.3 Olds Diesel I put in my Cherokee (looking forward to putting on the turbo) so in a lighter vehicle - like the Sportage - that should do just fine.

These IP's have a govener, so the throttle lever is linked with a spring so when the desired rpm is reached the gov overpowers the spring limiting rack travel. Different springs= different rpm. I replaced the stock spring with a stiffer one ( real stiff ) and it drives like it has no gov, it now acts like a rev limiter. Next time your in town stop by and see.

Cool stuff guys I'm ready to see this thing in action.

We're getting closer. We've been busy with work and the conversion hasn't been getting much time. However, if we're lucky, we'll be able to fire up the engine within a couple weeks.

The factory manual states you can check oil pressure from a port on the back side of the engine. On the exhaust side of the engine, near the back of the block, an NPT threaded plug gives you a place for a turbo oil feed and oil pressure sender.

We have to pull the engine one last time to drill the oil pan for the turbo drain line. Then, it's back together for hopefully the last time.

What are you guys doing with the breather hose between the valve cover and intake manifold? I think we will run it to a catch can and maybe connect the can to the filter box??? The turbo will pressurize the breather hose, otherwise.

We are using a water/air intercooler. They're a bit more efficient and have less pressure drop. Plus, the packaging is nice.

Also, I have the stronger injection pump spring mentioned by usedkubotaman. I keep reading about adjusting the rack limit screw. Is this the throttle stop or is this inside the housing? What kind of rpms will this give?

My brother has 3.45 rear end gear which will put the engine at 2400 rpm at 70 mph. We know we should get the 3.08, but the priority is getting it on the road as soon as possible.

The last things on the list:
Finish connecting intercooler, water lines, pump, and radiator.
Finish downpipe for the turbo.
Connect A/C components
Install serpentine belt and tensioners.
Connect fuel filter and engine bay fuel lines.
Connect air filter box to turbo inlet.
Get shop to fabricate exhaust. (What muffler are you guys using? Was thinking of a low-restriction turbo/chamber muffler with 2" pipe from turbo to tailpipe.)
Fabricate pickup for tach sensor and mount dash sensors.
Reconnect radiator.


Getting close.:jump:
Jurgen

Nice progress! The rack limit screw is located @ 8 o-clock in relation to the fuel shut-off solonoid, take off the cover, loosen the lock nut and back out screw to desired fuel (I think I backed it out 2 turns). The vent hose, I re-routed to the intake before the turbo, and hooked the boost line to the nipple on the intake horn. I have 3.45's in my Ranger with 15in rubber 29 in tall, this seems perfect to me. I am using the stock exhaust and muffler, thought about going straight pipe, but just left it like it was.

You just answered a HUGE problem for me. i didn't even think about using it for turbo oil feed, i was just gonna use it for oil pressure. Still gotta run drain on down, but the feed got alot more simple. :jump: Thanks!

The Kubota Ranger diesel is running and driving. We still have to clear up a few minor issues.

We backed out the rack limit screw 1 turn and have the stiffer governor spring installed. We're only getting 2500 rpm. I assume we have to unscrew the throttle stop to get more rpm, right?

Overall, the truck runs great. It's noisy and can use a bit more sound dampening, but it shifts, starts, and runs very well. Power is good, but not great, so far, but I hope that is fixed when we get more rpms.

Ya, you may need to back out the rack limit screw more and the throttle stop as well. I think you aren't getting enough fuel, it should be plenty enough power at that rpm. Are you getting any black smoke?

Rack limit screw is out 3 turns and no black smoke, yet. My brother has to remake the throttle bracket to get more rpms. We haven't gotten the tach adapter fabricated, but we think it is topping out around 2400 rpms. We're going to connect the EGT gauge soon, and a boost gauge is on order. The turbo wastegate is set for 15 psi from the factory.

Right now, off idle pull is really good, but it falls flat at higher rpm. It will not pull load under ~1700 rpm. It will lug and shake a bit. We're surprised 3 turns out on the rack limit is not enough fuel.

Jurgen

I think I backed it all the way out untill the rack bottomed out, then scerwed it back in 1 turn Since then I have turned 1 more in and probably need some more because I can still get alot of black smoke. You might look at Usedkobotaman's thread on the second page or so, I have a pic of my throttle linkage on there. It is very smooth and not hard on your foot when the gov is pushing back. My motor seems to go flat after 2300-2400 or so rpm. I haven't got a tac, just doing the math using speed. It pulls hard at low rpm through to 2200, then starts to level off. My wastegate dumps @ 11psi, it sees 5-10 psi during normal driving, cruise @2-5 psi. My motor doesn't like rpm under 1800 rpm under load.