Another Ford Ranger-Kubota V2203
 

I learned about the Ranger with 2200cc Kubota 2203 last fall. I've always respected Kubota equipment and engines, but I never associated them with automotive applications. However, the Kubota with turbocharger appears to be a good match for the compact pickups.

This past winter I bought a V2203 direct injected Kubota with modified oil pan, adapter plate, and turned flywheel from Aaron at Diesel Repower. I was planning to put this into a late model supercab Ranger, but my brother 'stole':tu: my engine for his own conversion, a 1990 regular cab Ranger.

Currently, the engine and transmission are mated and sitting in the engine bay. A pulley has been machined to fit the water pump. Head scratching ensues for the accessories. We plan to use two serpentine belts, because we think it'll be simpler to implement.
Jurgen

Today, I'm picking up engine number two, a V2203DI. This is for the 2002 Ranger Edge I bought yesterday. :rocking:

Interestingly, I think there is MORE room near the front crossmember. I may be able to eliminate most/all of the oil pan mods required for the pre-98 Rangers.

On the downside, while the Ranger used the same manual transmission from 88 to 2009, the bolt patterns changed. I can't use my adapter plate (for 89 to 97 manuals) on this newer truck.

For those who had to fabricate a plate, is any machine shop going to be competent enough to do the work, or should I find a shop that can digitize the engine and transmission patterns and CNC machine a plate?

Very nice! Welcome to the club! As for the adapter, I did mine old school and the machine shop that I used was as well, so just find a compitent shop and you are good to go.

I read (4btswaps) that you machined the stock flywheel housing to 1/2" thick and added a 1/4 steel plate for the transmission adapter. Then, you mention using a jig to get the transmission aligned. Can you describe your jig? Also, if you did it again, would you use the same technique?
Jurgen

:pca1:

If I had to do it over again, I would look into the Phoenix adapter. The jig I made had a disc turned to fit in the center of the cast Kubota plate with a centering hole, and a collar turned to fit between the input shaft and the t/o collar to hold the input shaft dead center. Then I indexed the steel plate to the trans bell using the input shaft to center, then mate the steel plate to the cast cover with the centering holes. Hope I explained that ok.

There's not a lot to report. We redid the fuel lines to make them safe for biodiesel. We used steel 5/16" line and 5/16" 30r14 rated hose from NAPA ($4/ft). fte, are you using the stock lift pump on the engine to pull fuel from the tank? We pulled the fuel pump and only plan having the lift pump suck from the tank.

Also, where are you getting oil feed for the turbo? I noticed what looks like a pressure line heading to the injection pump. Any details would be appreciated.

We pulled the engine/transmission to install the clutch and noticed the input shaft has about 0.100" side play. Uh oh, that doesn't look right...

Jurgen

This is very interesting and hope to follow the progress. I didnt know that 2203 was the actual size of the engine, not only is the engines outside dimensions small the radiator in the tractor I looked at seemed very small for a 2200 engine. The 2203 must be an efficient engine.

How are the IPs on these little engines set up? Most of them come out of reefer units, right?
So do the reefer units have only 2 speed? Idle and and fast settings? Or do they have a full range variable throttle setup?
With a turbo, what kind of HP & TQ numbers do they produce? I'd love to drop one into a Sportage or similarly sized 4WD mini SUV...

The engines have a variable throttle, but the throttle holds rpm as opposed to metering the load. In other words, if you use half throttle, the engine will give half of full rpm, and the engine will attempt to get to half rpm as quickly as possible.

The numbers on Garrett's web site suggest 90HP and 160-180 lb-ft of torque with 8-10 psi of boost. I expect performance at least as good as the 4 cylinder Ranger engine, more torque (obviously), and better mileage.

Here's the adapter plate for the earlier Ranger trucks (up to 1997). I bought this with the engine. This fall I'm going to convert an 2002 Ranger. I'm going to use the flywheel housing as the template for the new adapter plate and mate it with the transmission with the 3.0 V6 bolt pattern.

Jurgen

I'm not quite clear on how that is any different than any other throttle on a gas or diesel engine in any other vehicle. If you put your foot halfway to the floor the engine is going to spin up until it hits a specific RPMs (as determined by the rate of fuel flow) and it will do it as quickly as it can. Just how soon it gets there (assuming the load isnt so large that it prevents it getting there at all) is a function of the load its trying to accelerate.

That's almost exactly the HP/TQ numbers I'm getting out of the NA 4.3 Olds Diesel I put in my Cherokee (looking forward to putting on the turbo) so in a lighter vehicle - like the Sportage - that should do just fine.

These IP's have a govener, so the throttle lever is linked with a spring so when the desired rpm is reached the gov overpowers the spring limiting rack travel. Different springs= different rpm. I replaced the stock spring with a stiffer one ( real stiff ) and it drives like it has no gov, it now acts like a rev limiter. Next time your in town stop by and see.

Cool stuff guys I'm ready to see this thing in action.

We're getting closer. We've been busy with work and the conversion hasn't been getting much time. However, if we're lucky, we'll be able to fire up the engine within a couple weeks.

The factory manual states you can check oil pressure from a port on the back side of the engine. On the exhaust side of the engine, near the back of the block, an NPT threaded plug gives you a place for a turbo oil feed and oil pressure sender.

We have to pull the engine one last time to drill the oil pan for the turbo drain line. Then, it's back together for hopefully the last time.

What are you guys doing with the breather hose between the valve cover and intake manifold? I think we will run it to a catch can and maybe connect the can to the filter box??? The turbo will pressurize the breather hose, otherwise.

We are using a water/air intercooler. They're a bit more efficient and have less pressure drop. Plus, the packaging is nice.

Also, I have the stronger injection pump spring mentioned by usedkubotaman. I keep reading about adjusting the rack limit screw. Is this the throttle stop or is this inside the housing? What kind of rpms will this give?

My brother has 3.45 rear end gear which will put the engine at 2400 rpm at 70 mph. We know we should get the 3.08, but the priority is getting it on the road as soon as possible.

The last things on the list:
Finish connecting intercooler, water lines, pump, and radiator.
Finish downpipe for the turbo.
Connect A/C components
Install serpentine belt and tensioners.
Connect fuel filter and engine bay fuel lines.
Connect air filter box to turbo inlet.
Get shop to fabricate exhaust. (What muffler are you guys using? Was thinking of a low-restriction turbo/chamber muffler with 2" pipe from turbo to tailpipe.)
Fabricate pickup for tach sensor and mount dash sensors.
Reconnect radiator.


Getting close.:jump:
Jurgen

Nice progress! The rack limit screw is located @ 8 o-clock in relation to the fuel shut-off solonoid, take off the cover, loosen the lock nut and back out screw to desired fuel (I think I backed it out 2 turns). The vent hose, I re-routed to the intake before the turbo, and hooked the boost line to the nipple on the intake horn. I have 3.45's in my Ranger with 15in rubber 29 in tall, this seems perfect to me. I am using the stock exhaust and muffler, thought about going straight pipe, but just left it like it was.

You just answered a HUGE problem for me. i didn't even think about using it for turbo oil feed, i was just gonna use it for oil pressure. Still gotta run drain on down, but the feed got alot more simple. :jump: Thanks!

The Kubota Ranger diesel is running and driving. We still have to clear up a few minor issues.

We backed out the rack limit screw 1 turn and have the stiffer governor spring installed. We're only getting 2500 rpm. I assume we have to unscrew the throttle stop to get more rpm, right?

Overall, the truck runs great. It's noisy and can use a bit more sound dampening, but it shifts, starts, and runs very well. Power is good, but not great, so far, but I hope that is fixed when we get more rpms.

Ya, you may need to back out the rack limit screw more and the throttle stop as well. I think you aren't getting enough fuel, it should be plenty enough power at that rpm. Are you getting any black smoke?

Rack limit screw is out 3 turns and no black smoke, yet. My brother has to remake the throttle bracket to get more rpms. We haven't gotten the tach adapter fabricated, but we think it is topping out around 2400 rpms. We're going to connect the EGT gauge soon, and a boost gauge is on order. The turbo wastegate is set for 15 psi from the factory.

Right now, off idle pull is really good, but it falls flat at higher rpm. It will not pull load under ~1700 rpm. It will lug and shake a bit. We're surprised 3 turns out on the rack limit is not enough fuel.

Jurgen

I think I backed it all the way out untill the rack bottomed out, then scerwed it back in 1 turn Since then I have turned 1 more in and probably need some more because I can still get alot of black smoke. You might look at Usedkobotaman's thread on the second page or so, I have a pic of my throttle linkage on there. It is very smooth and not hard on your foot when the gov is pushing back. My motor seems to go flat after 2300-2400 or so rpm. I haven't got a tac, just doing the math using speed. It pulls hard at low rpm through to 2200, then starts to level off. My wastegate dumps @ 11psi, it sees 5-10 psi during normal driving, cruise @2-5 psi. My motor doesn't like rpm under 1800 rpm under load.

Sounds like your governor spring isn't stout enough, the stouter it is the more RPM's you will get. Mine will turn 3100 RPM, I used a handheld contact tach to check the RPM's at the crank. Also, I took my fuel stop completely out and I still do not get much smoke.

turbo6bar great job! would you mind getting me Diesel Repower's info and if you dont mind me asking what did your 2203 set up with adapters from them cost you

Hey I have been thinking about doing a diesel swap in my ranger for a while but im just looking for the right engine. I have looked into the 4bt but they are very expensive and I haven't been able to find a decent one for a good price. I almost bought a 2.2 perkins that was origially out of a 1984 ranger but I decided not to because of its low power and high compression ratio and its old! I have now started looking into the kubota engines and so far I am liking what i have seen. I was just looking into what transmission I should use so if you guys have any input that would be great! (I would like it to be a standard). Also I used to work at a machine shop that could help to build an adapter plate but I am wondering if you guys know if there is a place that you can buy them already made? Any info is greatly appriciated! Thanks!

Does anyone have diesel repower's contact information? My google searches have not turned up anything. I was just given a Kubota v2203 (not di) engine and want to swap it into something...

Turbo6bar canyou give me some advice on how to set up my serpentine drive I am really at a loss

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bigbilly...Arron is no longer with diesel repower, he moved to south america. Dennis is who you will want to talk to 423-965-4817. Any help anyone can give on serpentine would be awesome or if they want to sell a copy of their template either way. Just an FYI in industrial applications most stationary kubota motors are controlled by a Murphy or MurCal panel. They use an ATHA series tach that reads alternator pulses to calculate RPM the gauge is about 140$ and works great thats what I will be using

Howdy. The 2203 Ranger has been down for a while, because it blew out exhaust manifold gaskets. I have no idea if the stock gaskets were just old and ready to go, or if 14 lbs of boost did the damage.

I am looking for gaskets. Messicks hasn't responded back about gaskets. I noticed a guy 'Nick A' has Bobcat exhaust manifold gaskets for only $12/set, but his phone number no longer works. If you guys have any hints on where to find 'em without turning the city upside-down, I'm all ears. The local Kubota dealer does not deal with industrial Kubota stuff, and pointed me to Kubota in Charlotte, NC.

BTW, gas mileage was around 34 mpg, but I do not know how accurate it is. We changed out the rear end for a 3.08, which made it better on the highway, but overall mileage fell. I think it may have been due to exhaust leaks, however. I won't know until I replace the gaskets.

The only thing I don't like about the engine in this truck is the lack of rev range. At 3000 rpm, if feels like it is going to grenade. If I shift at say 2700-2800, the rpms will drop to around 1700 in the next gear. If rpms are below that, it will lug and stutter. So, you are forced to always be in the right gear. I do wonder if a modern automatic box with lock-up torque converter would be a better fit for this engine???

However, the GT1544 turbo is great. Boost response is immediate. The rack is backed out fully, and EGTs do get north of 900 degrees on long, hard pulls. Also EGTs drop very slowly when I am off the boost. I am not certain if the turbo is undersized and is creating backpressure and heat in the exhaust???? However, the Garrett calculators pointed to this turbo.

Sorry for rambling. I have let the truck sit over winter. It is almost time to start making biodiesel, which makes me eager to get the truck going and take advantage of the great gas mileage.

dirtdigger, I think you figured out the serpentine belt, right?

Cheers,
Jurgen

I get all of my gaskets and some other parts through EC Power. Sometimes they have to do some digging to figure out the right part, but the guys at the Auburn, WA location are really great about it!

E C Power

Columbia River Mandrel Bending also sells generic copper gaskets. I was thinking about ordering a set from them to try, since I probably should replace them when I pull the manifold to modify it for the new turbo anyway... I just need to take some measurements, then I'll order them and let you know how they are when I can get them installed.

Exhaust Copper Gaskets - Columbia River Mandrel Bending

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Well, I wasn't too sure about the copper option, so I called and ordered some gaskets from EC Power. I found the part numbers online before ordering, and their prices were 1/3 - 1/2 as much as the places I found online.

Two exhaust manifold gaskets are needed.
1A091-12360 - $4.11
1A021-12350 - $5.08

Attachment 35353

The second one was 5-7 days out, but they have a large stock of 1A091-12360, so I just ordered two of those and I'll cut the piece connecting the ports on one of them.

I also ordered an oil pan gasket
IG780-01620 - $20.00

how is the truck running. I am trying to compile a list of all the turbos used on this engine so far. Can you list the specific model # for your turbo? Is the GT1544 the only turbo you have used?

thanks

After a lengthy hiatus, I finally had the chance to get new exhaust gaskets and manifold studs. I got it together and only recently began driving it regularly. I've driven it about 500 miles on mostly backroads and light city and the fuel mileage is surprising me. I never run the tank to empty, so I have filled up twice with less than 8 gallons each time. The fuel mileage worked out to 37 and 40.7 mpg. Wow. Before I fixed the exhaust leak, mileage was never over 35.

I don't have a specific model for the turbo. I know it is a GT1544 from a foreign market diesel car. It was a European model if I am not mistaken. I purchased it new from eBay. It builds boost immediately off idle. The engine seems to struggle at higher rpms. I do not know if this is because the turbo is too small or it simply being an issue of fuel timing.

The fuel rack is fully unscrewed. EGTs will push 900+ if I am going up hills on the interstate. I should turn the screw down to limit fuel.

I think the clutch broke a spring. I don't think it can handle the torque at such low rpms. Also, the transmission shudders at 1500 rpm.

All in all, it is still a project, but I enjoy the truck. I wish I could make it seem less strained at highway speeds, but around town, it is a great truck.

Cheers,
Jurgen

thanks for the update. Sorry to hear you are running out of steam in the top end. What gears and tires are you running again? I think I am going to try a 3.07, and about a 28" tire. I still have not decided on a Turbo yet.
If you don't mind my asking do you remember how much you spent on your turbo?
I am looking for a extra Injector pump to experiment with. I am interested in the same sort of mod that usedkubotaman did to his pump. I am also trying to see if a v2003t, or v2403 pump cassette will work in our 2203 engines. They look exactly the same from a picture. That may be a pretty easy way to change the fueling. I am having difficulty finding parts diagrams though.

thanks again for the update

dieselxj, I haven't been on the forums in a while.

I decided to sell the 85 Mercedes 300D. The diesel Ranger gets no less than 37 mpg, and is more fun to drive. The 300D is obsolete, now.

I am running 3.07 gears with close to stock size tires. I am not near the truck, so I don't have the height.

I spent $250 on the turbo. I think I got lucky on eBay.


Does anyone know how much fuel pressure the injection pump wants? For some reason, my lift pump is not moving fuel. It is so tight working in there, and I am short on time, so I am going to install a Facet fuel pump. I was planning to get something that would deliver a 1-3 psi to the IP. The truck gradually had slow start problems and then, it would not start.

Otherwise, the truck is a good little pickup. I have oil leaks from the breather on the top of the valve cover, and other small oil leaks, but the the engine runs quite well.

Does anyone know how much fuel pressure the injection pump wants?

I ran a high pressure electric pump on mine for a while, it was significant power increase.

Out of all of the threads that I have read on the Kubota swap I have not seen people use an added fuel pump.

Maybe there is some kind of restriction in your fuel system?

I was just given a v2203 out of a reefer trailer
it is set at only 35 horse what is the biggest injectors these motors come with stock(bobcat 773 or what ever)
how do you increase the timing (what is the stock timing)
how do you turn the injection pump up
does the turbo version of the motor use a different exhaust manifold
what bell housing, clutch, trans, are you guys running
My goal is about 60hp good fuel economy in a light, little 2wd pickup

any info you guys can tell me and prevent even more hours of research is greatly appreciated
thanks
guys

1. I was just given a v2203 out of a reefer trailer
it is set at only 35 horse what is the biggest injectors these motors come with stock(bobcat 773 or what ever)
Answer: All the injectors are the same, you don't get more HP out of a Kubota with injectors.

2. how do you increase the timing (what is the stock timing)
Answer: You don't increase the timing but you do have to replace a spring inside injector housing to create more RPM's. There's also a fuel screw you turn up.

3. how do you turn the injection pump up
Answer: If the engine is a DI engine you don't need to turn the pump up, if it's a IDI engine it does. It's a pretty involved process, part of which includes take the injector pump completely down and taking it to a machine shop to have another hole precision drilled in it. I will tell you all about it you get to that point.

4. does the turbo version of the motor use a different exhaust manifold
There a lot of manifold variations out there, depends what the engine came out of.

5. what bell housing, clutch, trans, are you guys running
Everyone is pretty much running the trans that came in their truck. There are no kits, off the shelf type conversions kits, to adapt the Kubota to any transmission. Some of the guys on the board are playing with the idea.

6. My goal is about 60hp good fuel economy in a light, little 2wd pickup
60HP is completely attainable, V2203 are rated from the factory, 47HP at 2800. When you turbocharge them the power goes way up. I haven't heard of a dyno test yet, but I'm guessing we are in the 80-100HP range.

Hope this helps, good luck.

any info you guys can tell me and prevent even more hours of research is greatly appreciated
thanks
guys[/QUOTE]

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Thank you
I'm used to cummins engines I would of thought for sure that bigger injectors and timing would add power
I'll keep you guys up to date on how my progress evolves

OOCummins I will tell you right now you should read every thread you can find on the subject and there are not that many. You can find them on this forum and at the 4BT Cummins forum.

And try and not do what Hyper people like me do. And that is worry about everything at one time. Break things down into sub assemblies and start from there.

I will keep you guys informed hoping to wrap up 2 other little projects this week then start into the motor.
Where is the injector housing is it on the pump or on top of each injector
where is the fuel screw on the pump
so all the power comes from the turbo does a boost line need run to the injection pump to fuel harder as boost goes up
is there a fuel plate in there, different delivery valves, different springs in the pump

i cant believe all these things need, is more air more fuel and more rpm there is nothing else you do to these to get more power seems almost to simple, do you have to run head studs or anything to prevent it from lifting the head or any other preventable motor issues

Injector housing is on the side of the motor in front of the starter, fuel screw is just a rack travel limit screw, it's on the front cover and the reason why we get more fuel is they are only set at 75% or so in the reefer. Only rack travel adjust and a stiffer governor spring is needed.

post up pictures..